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cool thanks skully
it is spaced for 110

I do wonder if cln and ldngrr are some kind of web geeks. by the amount of time you seem to spend on the web (judging by the quick replies) you seem to not ride much. can you both actually ride a bike?

In deed. That was a very dear bike to me. You should look in the real flesh. it is quite intriguing. somehow I get a lot of compliments while riding. You seem to like the plain colors and the standardization that you get from bikes retailed in the leading shops. I much rather do something that shows my individuality.
Not that I am fanatic about wood, but I got inspired from wood works by artists in LA. if you don't appreciate to bad. I am not here to please you with what I like or with what I ride. You mite change your mind if you browse a bit on google

Airus, you built a bike that looks like wood!

I took apart and put new grease. does that answer your question?

whats a OLN?

are you unemployed clm? I am really sorry about your lack of productive activity

very old but in good working order 27" rear track wheel with fixed and free wheel thread spaced to 110cm
English made hub and weiman rim. the spokes are very rusty but judging by the fact that they are double butted this should have been a very good quality wheel for the time. It was taken from a W. hinds and I am just selling as I won a auction of a new wheel set on ebay. comes also with a very new tyre that I have been using for a week

you also will be getting a pelissier 700cc front wheel also of very good quality and double wall rim.

the sprocket and token lockring is not included.
just £60
contact with any queries.
Itens in brighton, happy to meet in brighton train station
+£17

57 cm cc of top tube

now selling parts separate.

wheel £80 with long drop brake
frame with headset and bb and seatpost £35
lights £15
carrier with mudguard £15
stem £15
handlebar £5
front wheel £20
crankset £20 (with pedals)
saddle £10

he is absolutely right. raw wood is way to unpredictable for handlebars. look into fastboy cycles. they have been experimentation with skateboard lamination tecniques. laminated bambu is a good element to have in such wooden handlebars

The wooden bars that I've seen tend to be laminated. I'd be very careful about using wooden dowel. Infact Especially just some cheap pine doweling.

thanks

Hi Airus,

I have seen the PDF and at first sight, there are no things that are really odd.
But there are several questions.
Why do you want a custom built ? Do you need it, any particular reason?

What do you want to do with it?
Fixed gear on road, track racing, on ly training.
Disciplines? It can make a difference is you ride match sprint, pursuit, kilo, 6 days or derny races.

Does your body ask for custom sizes?

Some freaks want a different frames for each discipline, even for each track (I remember a guy named Paul McHugh, who got new frames for almost every race he did). Most pro racers (world class) use OTP frames. Best bike builders like Corima, Look, Bike Technologies don't do a lot of custom frames.

In 99% of the cases an OTP will suit you perfectly. Differences with custom built frames cannot or hardly be noticed. It's mainly a psychological thing (however, nobody will admit, most people are convinced that the really CAN feel the difference).

Everybody with a bike MUST reed Mike Burrows' book Bicycle Design.
I highly recommend you this book, when you're thinking about a custom built bike and if you question what the effect of frame geometry may be.

thanks for that, very reasonable suggestion

Measure every bike you ride, make notes on how it feels to ride, analyse data, then think about what the dimentions of your frame (for a particular purpose) should be.

It will certainly be good for something. Whether it is good for you and your intended purpose is unknowable by me or anyone else on this forum.

last reduction on crankset holzfewer. 40 pounds posted, a bargain!!! bearings and everything included bolts, 38t chainring etc etc

regarding track frames, certainly. that doe not mean that I can not learn. hence I started this thread. not for humorist comments but more on guidance and perhaps further reading. now thats a thought. anyone knows of a ebook webpage or book that I could read to learn more? thanks

p.s the standard geometry give to me (by the PDF) is it any good?

It's a bit crackers all this talk, I'm assuming your needs/skills are nowhere near the level of detail you're trying to exact. If I'm wrong I apologise but you appear to be the most uneducated track professional in the world.

As food for thought; changing your gear ratio will force you to move your wheel forward or backward inside the dropouts effectively lengthening the wheelbase, how do you think this will effect the angles you've chosen? How much of a degree change will this make on your headtube angle?

Get something comfortable and be done with it.

no problem will check soon

what is the top tube length? that's all i like to know.

I'm still in Nursery Airus so can't PM however think you can contact me via PM or email?

I'll send you my details by return - heading into Brighton in a couple of hours if convenient.

sorry mate already sold

you could just tell me what you mean.

You might have to teak him a lesson.

this terminology is so complicated. what does a pun thread means? plain english if you guys want me to understand the humorous remarks. "my balsa aching enough already" --> was that something you sold previously?? forgive my stupidity

I am in the process to order a bike that I can ask for a custom design. thing is, I kown very litle about bike geometry. I have this provisional plan. how can I improve it? any ideas

this is going well!!! a bit more and we gonna have more attention than The Return of LFGSS Sports Massage Therapy!!!!

keep it coming, this is historic! the Marmite bike!

I find comfort in believing that in this forum there is more hate than love due to its fixie owners nature...so I hope at least

Sheldon Brown has the details of a nexus 7 speed convert and gear ratios on:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus-mech.html

to fit this wheel on a bike is probably the easiest thing ever. there is no need to regulate the gears or to have any particular braze on.

Its nearly as simply as fitting a track wheel on a frame. the only thing is that you also have a cable that comes out of the hub that changes the gear ratios.
as it also has coasting brake, there is no need to have back brake as to the front brake, you will also receive the front caliper that has the lever bonded together with the gear shifter. it could not be easier to fit this wheel. think of a sturney archey smother and simpler and with plenty of more gear.

I've always wanted to put a hub on a winter bike I have. I'm not too familiar with what brackets/brazeons I'd need, have you got a pic that shows the chainstay/cable/adjuster type stuff, please?

"do you think he saw this coming?"
I didn't actually!

crank set reduced to 40 pounds, 45 posted

I have to say, it sounds like you people have way to much time in your hands. however Its good fun to see the tremendous attention that this thread takes.
I am considering selling the parts separate now. the rear wheel will cost the most: £80 pounds complete with gear shifter and long drop brake caliper

aaaa, you wanna take it off?! more or less. if you do take it off you mite as well have to repaint

Don't worry about the mockery :) no one much cares.

One question though, does the wood effect/mock Tudor vinyl come off easily ?