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They're the "racing green" ones, which are some kind of very soft resin, I presume

Tbf, they weren't new, but we're maybe 1/4 worn before today. Felt the brakes pumping up after 6 or 7 runs, got a bit noisy, looked down and realised there were no pads anymore.
Two other mates went through their XT and Code pads today too, so wasn't just me

Can confirm that Hope green pads do not last very long in the wet. At all. Like, an hour.

HED wheels sold, brakes sold pending collection. Price drops on a few things.

Unless weight is important to you, I don't think anyone could tell a difference in shifting. Can't really go wrong with Shimano chains, and they're optimised for each other. Shop around, there's so many good deals at the moment while the industry collapses in on itself

Have added photos on a link in first post

Will try to tomorrow for you

I'll take photos soon as I've stripped it

Pm me if there's anything of interest, I can take photos in situ

Time to move some stuff on, new bike coming so need to clear the space. Everything is currently still on the bike, and I'll take photos soon as I've stripped it but that might not be for a while. Anyone interested in anything, that might speed up that process! Rest assured, everything's in great condition, well maintained, and hardly been used in the last two years. All items availble to collect from SE9, or can arrange postage at cost. Wheels might need to wait til I can get a box for them.

Photos here - https://photos.app.goo.gl/begUtNeQVi3UPR138

• Cannondale Hollowgram SISL2 chainset, with SRM PM7 power meter, 53/39 chainrings. Battery was replaced by Scientific Coaching in March this year, and it's been ridden approximately 12hrs since then. Actually gutted to sell these as they're beautiful, but they don't fit my new frame. I covered the crank arms with helitape quite early, so there's almost no heel rub on them. REMOVED

• Deda Superzero carbon aero bars, think they're 38cm width. Not the DCR version, but can be routed internally. SOLD

• Deda Superzero alloy aero bars, 44cm. Forgot I even had these, just found them. Good condition, external routing only. Polish on black. £25

• Deda Superzero stem, 100mm, polish on black. Good condition. SOLD

• Deda Superleggero seatpost, 27.2mm, 12mm setback? I very carefully removed the red logo from it, so it's much more stealth. Beautiful, very light. Some scuffing to post but all within the seattube, even if you're tall. REMOVED

• Wheels MFG PF30 threaded BB. Literally fit and forget, has never creaked once, pretty sure it's still got the original bearings in it and they're still perfect. REMOVED

• DuraAce Di2 R9150 rim brake shifters. Replaced the hoods this year, ridden twice. Excellent condition. Tiny tiny mark to one lever blade, have to look hard to see it. REMOVED

• Ultegra R8000 brake set, very good condition, inc. carbon pads. Might even have another set spare I can include. SOLD

• Chris King R45 rim hubs with CX-Rays, on 38mm carbon clincher rims. Front rim is Wheelsmith, the rear was replaced this year for an identical depth, but is aysmetric so stronger than the original. Brake tracks are non-matching but otherwise identical. Rear is tubeless, front is not. I never ran it as tubeless, but it's taped ready to go. Hubs are perfect, super smooth, recently cleaned and regreased. The most beautiful hubs ever made, IMO. (tyres and cassette not included, but will include DuraAce skewers) REMOVED

• HED Ardennes rim brake clinchers on Hope hubs. Front is a Pro 3 Mono, rear is Mono RS 11spd Shimano. These are pre tubeless, but very light, very solid wheels. Bought them and never really rode them much, been hanging in the shed for pretty much three years, brake track barely used. SOLD

DM with any questions!

If a groupset is 30% cheaper than you can buy it then split the difference.

How does that make it any better though? The answer from the customer is still "but I can get it cheaper online" and then they've made even less margin

When I was at uni, me and a friend were walking along the pavement one time carrying our skateboards, when a man and his 7yr old son came in the opposite direction. We moved aside to let them past, and the dad said that exact phrase to us.
A bit baffled, because we'd no idea what we'd done to deserve that, maybe just carry skateboards, but my mate replied with "Why, is that what you decided to do?"

Although, I agree with you that some shops really don't help themselves sometimes. I once tried to buy a cassette spacer from my nearest LBS, and they said they "only really come with a set of wheels, you can't buy them separately" but sold me one anyway and made it out like they'd done me a favour. Same shop also once claimed to be unable to tap a pedal thread for me, and "I'd need to contact the manufacturer for them to CNC a new crank" before admitting they didn't own a pedal tap.

Honestly.

Most workshops buy bulk rolls of hose/cables/housing anyway though, no?

I have some money

Gonna build up some new disc road wheels soon, likely 40mm China carbon on either Hope Pro 5 or DT Swiss 180/240.

I'm debating whether to use asymmetric rims or not. I've built a 38mm deep rear one with asymmetric rim before, but it seems deeper than that the benefits would be less, as they're so stiff anyway.

Asymmetric rear, symmetric front? Asymmetric f+r?

And obviously I didn't use it to put the new BB and cassette lockrings on again. Just to be clear!

I've had a run of working on bikes with BBs that have been completely seized and destined for the bin if they don't come out. Days of Plusgas soaking, blowtorch, etc. did nothing. Long breaker bars are hard to get torque applied in the correct plane, or unable to secure the tool firmly, so splines or get chewed. Using a vice and then using the frame as leverage requires loads of space and time, and same problems apply. So I thought, why not try it? I'm doing multiple bikes for a construction company, all in the same condition, they said they'd just scrap them if they can't be fixed so consequences of actions were minimal if it didn't work.

I would obviously be less inclined to do this on a £12k S-Works...

Got some R8000s somewhere

DCF922 18V XR

Obviously, I wouldn't use it on a bike that wasn't absolutely fucked, this was exceptional circumstances

Frame was fine, it wasn't even rusty inside the BB shell. It was the exposed cup fused to the BB shell face. I'm amazed how stress free and easily it came out with the hammer action
Had to use it on the cassette lockring too for the same reason. Torque wrench maxed out at 100Nm wouldn't undo it, but impact wrench had it off in under a second

DeWalt, hence not porn

Not exactly porn, but yesterday I'd had enough of trying to remove completely fucked square taper BBs rusted into frames, and corroded cassette lockrings, so bought myself a nice deep spline BB tool with 1/2" drive, and a 400Nm impact wrench to take them out.

Took literally 2 seconds. Game changer.

Usually, yeah. Just make sure to not drop any washers or spacers, and remember where they go back. You'll need to pull the bearings if it's being repainted, so may as well replace them all while you're there

Got a nasty click under hard front braking on my MTB, which in my heart of hearts I know is probably the crown steerer. But before I start the warranty process, I wouldn't mind taking the headset cups out and reinstalling, just to be sure. Who the hell makes ZS66 headset drifts? It's an FSA no55 headset for 1.8 taper forks. I cannot find one anywhere. Ideally need it to work with a Park HHP2