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£110?

I've got an old 520 somewhere, battery doesn't last much past 4hrs but all working other than that?

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I'd possibly be interested in the shifters and calipers, it that was the case

Shifters?

can't remember if it was used for brake fluid or mineral oil

You can clean them. DOT washes off with water, mineral oil takes a bit more effort, but hot soapy water should be enough to remove from syringes.

a complete sram level bike set up for £44

Your fluidless brakes would work better than Levels.

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That's not very capitalist though, when you could borrow more to cover losses or just phoenix the business.

It's a perfect system!

Seeing as kids are just small grownups, they need lighter spring rates and a lighter spring rate needs less rebound damping - so you could probably speed it up a bit.
Compression wise, I'd leave it in the middle and watch how they're riding; if it's diving too much under braking, more damping. If they're getting battered about on the rough section, less damping.

I'd have killed for a 1998 Palisades Trail when I was younger. They lost their charm after that, but the more recent ones have started to turn my head. I wouldn't say no to an Alpine Trail, perhaps mostly guided by nostalgia

£400 adjustable spanner, ok then

Enough of this, someone post a picture of a sexy tool please

The actual torque isn’t really that important (there is a range of torque spec on most parts) as long as all the bolts are pulled down evenly and to the same torque

Do all my stem bolts up evenly to 150Nm by feel, got it.

You didn't say plz

Unless it's got a crimped fitment on it somewhere, you can use any hose

https://www.sram.com/en/service/articles/SRAM-Brake-Hose-Overview

tl;dr

Buy a torque wrench, and learn how to use it.

If you don't use a torque wrench, what do you blame when you strip something? It's the equivalent of being able to blame the Saturday kid

Or a SRAM one where the machine doesn't work

£125

Probably best asking the manufacturer of said forks, but 800mm bars aren't uncommon on alloy MTB steerer tubes; carbon is going to be just as strong if the stem is clamped correctly and you're not running a silly amount of spacers on it.
Also once you're riding that flex moves the bike, so it's not static flex. Is this a fixed gear you're doing tricks and stuff on? I'd be hesitant of that on a carbon steerer, more than wide bars on a carbon steerer being ridden normally.

Ashima are cheap and work well

I was quite surprised at how well the Ashima ones work, although they don't last very long

I think the Prodigy are a bit shit too

It's painfully accurate though

heading out on a friends ketch today