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You don't get me. You buy the bike, sell the frame (£200ish) and keep the parts. You'll have to get a stem and probs a seatpost. Appart from that your sorted. Anything else you don't like you can replace as you go.

To build something you like is going to cost regardless - an £1000 budget is bordering on being unrealistic even if you buy lots of secondhand bits.

This is what I built for around £900 (the wheels were £320), originally a surly steamroller complete (sale price £415) £345 total on c2W, Sold the f+f for £180, BJ f+f headset, headset and carriage £330, nitto stem £45, pedals £20, saddle £30

note - saddle is too low

Quite a nice paint job, like foil stamping or metal leafing.

Panto-ed

Buy as heavily discounted bicycle as you can from the cycle to work scheme (£1000 limit), regardless of whether it fits you or not. You are not allowed to buy components through the cycle to work scheme. Sell the frame and any components you don't want on. Bang - you've got a nice frame with nice components. You'll have to square this away with your employer because technically you are leasing the bike from them. You normally have 10 months to pay it off. The more you get paid the better deal you'll get. This has all been covered (utfs).

This would give you what you want - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Cinelli_Dinamo_2010/5360051966/

mdcc_testers pretty much covered it. I was using a cheap rpm BB last year, the sealed bearings developed play within their housings after only 400 miles. I'd never come across this before (the bearings were fine). I've stuck in a un54, this is what I'd recommend as far as jis goes. I am also looking for a reasonably priced, durable, sealed iso BB (109) any recommendations would be welcome.

Don't get blotto'd and loose your bikes. Been there, done that - bad deal!

If this splits I'd be interested in the cranks / bb

Wow you just worked out how to do it to -oan yersell!

A 1 1/8" quill won't work, the threadless headset needs to be pre - loaded. You could use a 1 1/8" threaded headset but then you would need threaded forks.

Eeeh I never read most of this post, I'm going to leave you all to it.

It's totally possible to do this, I just worked it out now. You need an top hat sleeve that preloads the headset from a bolt that is mounted on a cap that is mounted on the bottom of the fork crown. The bottom cap has to be through drilled so a brake can still be installed and the allen head pre - load bolt has to be recessed far enough into the bottom cap as not to foul the brake.

If you can understand what I'm on about feel free to get yourself a cnc lathe and make it. I'd probably use hardened steel for the sleeve and alu for the bottom cap. This design would be compatible with carbon forks.

you'd have to cut your ahead forks bellow your stack height though for this or any solution

it's because that bike was a 'factory' shot that Hufnagel put together after completing it, here's the same bike after the owner recieve it;

I actually think think edscobles right - its a beaut. The stems sweet as are the guards. I love sigg water bottles too!

Whatever...

Going up is measured obv. I've never been to a hill climb but I've been led to believe the guy's im my locale ride back down (why else would a front brake be mandatory?) As far as velcro goes it was clipless shoes with just velcro tensioning straps that I was on about.

Not taking the piss, stating the obvious? ;)

This one has perplexed me actually, do you swap your wheel round during training for a fixed TT? Will you do this when TTing?

sorry I'm not taking the piss, it's just that its fucking harcore what your letting yourself in for!

This is one of the local hills by me and the bikers going down the mellow side
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qURNyxb9Rs"]YouTube-
Cairn o' mount, Banchory, Aberdeenshire z1000[/ame]

I just run 48 - 15 everywhere, I can get up most things (slowly) and its good for over 40 - 45mph on the way down. I've been told that even in hillclimbs some of the guys change there wheels round just cos it's ludicrous going down a 12% incline even with 70gi. I heard a story about a guy who lost control going down the above hill, crashed into one of those snow posts and split his bike in 2. He was supposedly found concussed rambling about the heather with his bars/forks in one had and his backwheel in the other moaning he'd lost his speedo . The thing I was on about with the shoes is it fucking wrecks them

I don't ride competitively but I've been doing a lot of training lately in preparation for doing some (fixed) tt's next year (where I come from is fucking hilly though). First things first - work out where the local clubs run their events and try riding the hills, a brake is a good idea as is a wheel with 2 cogs (one for up one for down), a simple speedo is as important as any of the other stuff as you can work your cadence out from it. Bars aren't really an issue (drops or bull horns obv.) but good tape is essential. I would also rate clippless pedals and shoes with a decent retention system (velcro alone doesn't really cut it).

I wouldn't bother changing anything position wise, as long as your not sore. Also combining the hills into a normal ride is a lot more satisfying than going: bottom - top - bottom. As far as gears go, I would work from what you ride normally first, concentrating on building strength and technique before making any rash purchases.

Anyway good luck

Car jack ftw. One of the diamond style ones or a bottle jack. You should be able to do it pretty accurately with either.

If its for repairing threads, it doesn't work. Devcon is pretty mental stuff though, vastly superior to other fillers as far a strength goes. It does take 8 hours + to cure though - loctite takes 10 mins

http://www.biomega.dk

Why do people mess with something thats been fine for 100 years? The above is designed by ross lovegrove, marc newson is also one of their designers.

The little dune bike does look fun (but really heavy).

(I used the search, could find nothing)

Bit of a shit build but awesome frame

Fillmores vg. value for money - really well specced parts, nice (if a bit heavy) frame, subtle graphics. There's tonnes of folk that swear by langsters but I've seen 2008 fillmores going for £350, total bargain at that price.

Yeh, couldn't remember his name - nice guy though, all the putney guys seem sound. Met him when I was down the road a few weeks ago.

I met a guy that works part time at putney cycles that built himself a frame with a very similar seatstay bridge - really nice. Supposedly not to flexy and he's 6ft ish

Sounds like he's telling you to get a mans gear - ooft!

Nah running a bigish ring on the front gives you more flexibility as far as ratio's go, and its cheaper to mess around with back cogs.

47 - 19 through to 47 - 15 gives you a wicked spread from high acceleration around town to a long gear good for 40 + in the country. I really like miche sprockets with the screw on carrier. 5 cogs approx £50 and you can mess around with your gearing as much as you like. Also small rings just look shit.

I also don't understand why the brazing material runs into the reinforcing ring on the headtube. This isn't actually being picky, it's just what I would expect from any high end frame builder and the standard I would set myself if I ever get the oppurtunity to build my own frame.

Anyway, it is beautiful and strikingly finished to anything else out there at the moment.

"problem"? It is actually dissapointing, amazing paint/chrome job, just lush! Half an hour with a die grinder/mini belt sander could have sorted this before it went to be finished. I could maybe understand if they were flushed out tig welds but they are not, its fillet brazing.

I forgot I've got a bmx frame made of 853 in the garage - absolute keeper! The only frame I've gone back to after buying a replacement. I remember riding an amazing saracen killi (sub 5lb mtb frame) in 1997. I've got a standard 631 vigorelli, its very nice, 853's always a bit special though.

This was a really nice frame that came up a while ago: http://static.lfgss.com/attachments/4172d1230848359-dsc_0038.jpg