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The OTP bikes I've looked at in shops seem heavy and expensive; the mark ups must be incredible. I've built a couple for c.200 quid **using off the peg bits **and nearly-new 531 and alu frames, meanwhile Charge charge c.500 quid ... what on?
Really?
Not being funny but I find it hard to belive that unless you a) know people; and b) have a load of spare parts?
Here's a rough break-down of my first build.
** second hand bits**
- Bike = £5
- Wheelset = £95
- bars and stem = £20
- chain = £5
- brake = £5
** New bits**
- Seatpost = £12.95
- cotter pins = £2.50
- toe clips and straps = £7.98
- Brake blocks and ball bearings = £12
- Powder coat = £49
- Brake cable = £6.99
- Wire and bits = £5
** Total = £226.42**
Tools + etc:
- drill bits = £10.00
- Bottom Bracket Tool = £4.27
- Bike Tool Kit = £27.00
- Grease £7.00
- Spaner & crap = £27.00
- lockring removal tool = £19.99
- gt85 = £3.69
- jenolite = £3.00
- clippers = £5.00
**Total = £106.95
**... riding a bike you built... priceless... but still >£200
- Bike = £5
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^ +1
As Belk are in the US and are in a different business, so unlikely to confuse anyone, you shouldn't have any problems.
FYI there aren't any UK co's who've registed the name Belk iether.
Check out the IPO for more info... also if you (or anyone else) has any IP queries there is a free service provided by Own-it
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trying to decide between these two logos/names

carrier or belk?
I mean, "carrier pigeon".....that name will never catch on. ;)
+1
Belk is more distinctive.
I think the standing bear is the best.
Also from an IP point of view "carrier" for something that carries is descriptive, therefore you may have problems protecting your brand name further down the line.
My 2p.
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@ john_ohara - depending on how bad the scuff marks are you can try T-Cut and lots of polishing.
I used it on my frame where the paint had faded and it really brought it back to life.
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As others seem to have ans. the first few Q's I'll chuck in my 2p
**Headset **- don't bother chaining the headset - just re-grease (FYI there are loads of random parts on a bike that seem to cost £10-30 and they all add up fast)
White rims - NO! you want black, grey ano, or silver (if you're using brakes you need braking surface - UTFS)
handle bars - put them the right way round and save your £'s
**General Stylin' **- K-I-S-S and look here
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I've got a 3TTT hinged quill stem. Doesn't look very pretty, but does the same
Do you have a pic of it on the bike + bars etc?
Also IMO I agree with VinylVillian that if you're going to make a custom stem it would be much, much better if the bolts were concealed, otherwise you're just making something that's a bit less attractive than a traditional quill stem.
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You should be able to find the ans on google or Sheldon Brown...
... but as you sound sweet I'll give you one for free ;)
V-brakes need specific leavers bc they pull more cable to pull them together.
So:
- Canti's, caliper and mini V-brakes = most/any brake leavers
V-brakes = ONLY V-brake leavers*
there is a little pully thing you can use to use normal brake leavers - some ppl say they're shit, some say they work (search for it)
EDIT: also, yes you can use cross-tops without drops (I think thats ans'ing the other Q you were asking)
- Canti's, caliper and mini V-brakes = most/any brake leavers
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does anyone have any tips on a good/hard clear coat, enamel or laquer?
I used some car laquer (hycote)and it is absolute crap.Pretty hard stuff after drying but so brittle that it chips off. Also used Plasti Kote clear coat before, much better but that just rubs off over time.BUMP
- I have the same question as I want to clear coat over the existing paint work to protect it
- I have the same question as I want to clear coat over the existing paint work to protect it
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Just thought I'd put up the results of my polishing...
before:

after:

... the frame had a sort of ingrained dirt/discolouration, which I sanded off with a worn down sanding sponge and GT85
Then I got T-Cut and applied liberally and then rubbed vigorously with an old cloth.
Some of the paint is quite badly damaged, so I sanded those areas down and used Jenolite to treat the rust.


I tried the vinagar bath thing on the forks... it wasn't very sucessful... maybe it wasn't strong enough, maybe the dirt/discolouration was too bad, but it didn't work for me.
... After respraying my Carlton I kinda miss the old worn-out / original look. BUT I want to make sure the frame is sound and paint won't deteriorate further.
I was planning on clear coating it myself - is it a bad idea to wax the frame before I do this?
(I'm going to check threads for clear coating)
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No, I think they're good (a little bit heavier than open pro's) but meant to build up into great wheels....
.... I think the issue is the colour. I was looking for a cheap set of open pro's on the 'bay, a set of red ano took ages to sell (and went for £50ish).
EDIT: they've only been up for a day! Patience....
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man i just watched that Brooks sadle vid and smell yo dick...
the brooks was def worth 5 min of my life and smell yo dick was amazing.