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WTF are you on about - just because someone points out that you have no idea what you are talking about, consistently giving out incorrect advice about mechanical matters, and generally behaving like a pseud, it doesnt mean i am targeting you, it just that you are misinforming people, and refuse to ever accept that you might be wrong.
There's a difference between being self assured, and refusing to see when you are wrong.
are you my anger management therapist???! :$
anyway, nice enough wheel, let's say seventy five sheets..
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if you decide to keep a less stressful way to iron out the ding is:
Cut two pieces of hardwood, approx 1/2" X 1 1/2" X 9", drill a hole at each end on the 1 1/2" faces, bolt together with 2" bolts and washers. clamp the bolts so that the 'press' will run along each side of the dented rim and just contact the dent. Tighten bolts slightly and run back over; repeat this closing the gap until the dent is gently massaged back to as near to the rim face as practicable. Seeing as the metal has been deformed it is likley that the profile will be raised. This you may have to accept because if you use a fine file to reduce the proud part of the profile too much of the clincher 'hook' or bead seat may be removed; you have to judge just how much metal can be removed without compromising the bead seat.
Or fuck 'em off and get a refund!
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-devon-11195393
what are the chances of that happening..?
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a bearing puller set will get this out, this one's unbelievably cheap
alternatively, judicious tapping with a universal adjuster and a piece of wood
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look at hilarystone's latest bikes/frames for sale thread, couple of 25" items
fuck this classifieds section moves fast, > http://www.lfgss.com/thread50349.html#post1622095 < five pages back!
+1
my foster aunt used to re-stock a dozen a month from the hardware store at the bridge
..mind you we used to take great delight in nicking her JPS