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You'll need to take all that off. After that, get a case separator to split the cases - don't try and pry them apart. Be careful not to lose any thrust washers when you take out the gear clusters. You'll want a crank puller to help re-assemble. There's nothing complicated - just take your time. Use of an oven / freezer is pretty important, so start buttering up your mum / missus now as it stinks the place out a bit.

Agree on the theory. Training my ear to learn which notes give the quality to chords really helped me. And figuring out lots of different inversions.
I’ve got short fat fingers and large palms so thumb over a lot. Also way easier to comp bass lines on the e string.

Keep at it fella. Make a conscious effort to keep your fretting hand relaxed and avoid the death grip- position is way more important than how hard you squeeze on an electric.

Yes - 13 all the time. 15 for anyone with an Italian bike.

Alpine taking a leaf out of Lampre’s playbook. Cool colours.

I am still tickled by the soundtrack of my van.

Suspect yours will be a different league in terms of driving though.

Nice! How did you get on?

Ah dude that sucks. Hope it’s not too sprained!

Tomorrow or Monday. Want to try a couple of gnarlier trails to see if the gearing is OK. Should top out about 75 which is fine for me!

I took my race bike from London to Cadwell park in a Ford Orion saloon car once. We had to take the front seat out and the back wheel and fairings off. I sat behind my mate. Got some funny looks on the A1.

This is a bit more desert ready. 14/50 gearing, Steering damper, big tank,full bash plate and bark busters.

Cripes - I reckon I'd have sacked that off into a skip by now! Good perseverance.

http://www.parisdakar.it/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/022.jpg

I didn’t know that!

Not a Ferrari fan here but that's my fave so far. Definitely agree on the size, they're huge.
I thought the Williams looked good too.

Marlboro Suzuki?

I went pillion to Brands Hatch on a K1 with a crazy Scot ex-racer once when I was a kid. He made the dials go all the way around.

Have a mate with an R9 and he loves it. He dragged us down to the local BMW dealer for a look around after a ride a few weeks back and the R9s were the only ones I liked, other than the much improved S1000RR. Had a sit on a GS and they are ENORMOUS, comfy seat mind.

Both those bikes look good! Modern BMWs elegant? - more brutalist, functional chic, perhaps?

I spent altogether too long putting the top end back on the RM last night, only to decide to take it off again. So it goes sometimes...

No drama - twist up some bits of shop cloth and spray them with brake or carb cleaner and clean the threaded holes out. Make sure you use blue loctite - it takes a while to set so no problem there.

Watch it spraying carb or brake cleaner around - it'll go for plastic and paint.

@Airhead - looks proper!

It's an anti-seize but it's made from grease and other stuff so is a bit of a lube as well (not a very good one.) I wouldn't worry about it.
That said, Loctite is the tits because you can forget about stuff vibrating loose.

Did a quick audit and I think I have most bits to build a motorcycle in all the boxes…

SO much for taking my own advice. I was out last night dremelling the ports on my RM (chamfering the windows.) I'm going to do the absolute dirt and just bung it back together. I measured the cylinder and bore and they're actually fresh - looks like the previous keeper cold seized it. Cleaned up the piston with a bit of 400 wet and dry and have bunged my el cheapo hone down the bore. I think it will work. For a bit....

Main bearings have different internal tolerances so you need to be careful you’re fitting like for like. I think C1-5 - I always try and use OEM for mains, unless they’re coming from someone that really knows their stuff.

Damn that sucks. Are there any Rotax specialists in the UK you can ask about bits / compatibility? It sounds like a money pit if you can't get parts easily. In fairness, if you do rebuild the crank, replate the cylinder etc - it'll probably last for bloody ages as a trials bike but it won't be cheap. Only really worth it if you love the bike....

I wouldn't piss around with the porting - it's a trials bike. Most of the power from two stroke engines comes from the exhaust. Expansion chambers are tuned to provide a supercharging effect, that's dependent on the port timing and engines expected RPM operating window. You really need to modify stuff as a system to be effective.

That looks like a plated cylinder to me, probably Nicosil - in which case, you don't bore them. They get replated and honed, usually at a fairly extravagant cost. It looks worn, but you really can't tell unless you measure it. Generally if you can't see any evidence of hone marks, plated cylinders are usually in need of redoing.

If you've up and down play in the crank, it needs rebuilding for sure. Unless new cranks are very available and cheap, you usually press out the pin (with a bloody great 20ton press) and fit a new rod kit with big end bearing as a set. It would be weird to do all that and not replace the rod. It shouldn't be too expensive.

I'd look around on the bay for a less used cylinder - Nicosil bores last a frigging age if they're looked after. I'm surprised to see that wear on a trials bike - my CR250 is 2001 and on the original cylinder!