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nope.
GP4000S and MP3R are some of the best clinchers around.

on every messageboard that don walker shows up on, he always comes off as a cunt.

I hope you're getting it painted the same colour again though... ^^

+1

dont ruin that sweet paint job.

3T Super Competizione

ratboy: hey man, sorry this is so late. i've been on holiday away from the computer and only just read this thread. this is the deep drop i was talking about...

has anyone tried these bars before? I am considering them. reviews?

http://www.irocycle.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=168

front only available, though

thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I notice on the acor lever that it's a clip-on -- does it feel secure? any chance of it slipping?

I have a pair of Nitto bars and I'd like to run a single cross-lever. The bars have an OD of 23.8mm which is pretty standard.

I have a Tektro RL570 which is fine, but I think it feels flimsy and doesnt quite match my bike which is nearly all-vintage except for the bars and wheels. I formerly used a Paul E-lever which felt solid and well-made, but I didnt like the one-finger braking -- my hands are too big, I suppose.

What would be a good compromise between the quality construction and solid feel of the E-lever and the full-finger Tektro CX lever?

The Dirty Hairy or Gold Finger just wont fit the aesthetics of the build. I'd rather just use the Tektro that I have. I like the look of the Paul Cross Lever, but it is too large for the OD of the Nitto bars and I'd rather not shim -- been there, done that. Shimming a brake lever sucks.

What else is an option to look into?

I did read them, went really on with the all thing, links an all, til the minute I realize that oxalic bath (acid), is in fact the same as WOOD BLEACH, which is among one of the most pollutant and dangerous to handle DIY substances, on the market. Considering this would be done by one of us at home: "oxalic acid is very environmentally hazardous. please dispose of it properly. do internet research and figure out where you would take it after you do this, do not just leave it curbside.".. therefore, could have it´s goods but damn right has is cons, for a more homie solution: "I use mostly vinegar for a few reasons:
-it does the exact same thing as oxalic acid, just takes a bit longer
-5% diluted vinegar is less toxic to work with (right?)
-It's cheap in small quantities (obviously you would have to buy a whole lot to fill a kiddie pool, and
that would be expensive.)".
And still, even if u do succeed in removing the rust, whats the point on having a chipped frame that within months (unless re-clearcoated), will present the same symptoms?
I have my thing as well with the finish that PCing gives to a frame, but I don´t have anything against re-painting one, bringing it back to life.

yes. use vinegar (or electricity, if you know what you're doing -- research first and take all precautions -- dont mess around) if you do not have the facilities to dispose of oxalic acid to neutralize the rust. I personally have simply poured the used acid back into the empty container until I want to bother with decanting or disposing.

you can get clear nail polish and touch up the scratches to prevent exterior rust. framesaver will prevent internal rust.

If you do the maths in terms of worth-it-or-not, PCing comes as an economical way to protect, after well prepared from rust, any frame which paint job just simply cannot be saved (rust). It´s never IMHO, a matter to generalise to all the bikes we see here going to armourtex. The reality of prices is that for £50 you get a frame and forks PCed whereas enamel, customs paints, customs paint jobs go around £100+.... I mean, ok about being true to the origins of the builder, but these prices are prohibitive (East London prices as for the last year or so.. to me) The point is to get close to what you had, or not, but be true and fair to the bit of steel beteween your legs. We´re fucking throwing arguments related to personal taste in the end of the day, but it´s more about common sense. I wouldn´t keep my old frame all rusty because of it´s radness or character if that would shorten it´s life.

you should read my earlier posts on the subject that I linked to (example pictures included). rust can be easily dissolved in a oxalic bath. remove 99% of the rust and preserve the original aesthetics of the frame at a cost of next to nothing -- win-win solution. Add an inexpensive can of framesaver, and rust will no longer be an issue -- unless, of course, the rust has eaten through and compromised the tubes. but if that's the case, the frame should not even be ridden on whatsoever (unless it can be saved by a framebuilder).

whoop, the name sound pretty welsh! ah well still need to find out who made this frame, annoying that they drilled the BB a bit to save weight.

bb shell drilling is fairly common. they are drain holes, not weight savers.

and powdercoating old frames is quite boring. scratches give a frame character.

I've already had this conversation in this thread: http://www.londonfgss.com/thread6261-188.html#post689012

Bar Angle: FAIL (should be pointing towards rear brake bridge).

Saddle bag: FAIL

Other than that....

there's nothing wrong with saddlebags. they make perfect sense.

I'd say the bar selection and position were poor, but that's about it.

so, they're comfortable and holding up well? would you say they're equivalent to toshis, though? I'm about to buy some toshis, but I'd rather save some money.

so, what's the final verdict on exustar straps? how do they compare to toshis?

I like these the best: http://www.fabrichorse.com/index.php?page=lockholsters&item=160

white fizik tape.

Anyone have a pair of Campagnolo aero brake levers with white hoods?

Let me know - thanks.

I never look at the tread direction when I'm putting on a tyre because it makes not a blind bit of difference which way the tread is facing. I'm more concerned with getting the damn thing over the rim!

I dont think he was mentioning the tread (which, you're right, does not make a difference with slick tyres) but the non-lined up stem and logos. It's generally a good idea to do this so if you get a flat it's easier to find what punctured your tube. and it generally makes things look cleaner.

search here and on google for stuck stem - plenty of solutions. none of them pretty.

not all cinelli stems are 26.4 - the newer ones (90s - present) are mostly 26.0.

and there are plenty of stems/bars in 26.4 up on ebay.

They're Record Pista hubs, which are going to be somewhat of an experiment on the street and ceramic Open Pro's, which is why they have the dark grey braking surface.

how do you like the OP ceramics? how's the braking power?

Well, this has taken me eight months to collect all the parts and finally build it but it's done at last:

I know it's not the best bike photography, but you get the idea.

what rims/hubs are those?

did u use silicone and insulation tape to de-rattle it so to speak ?
if u didnt, well, im saying nothing.

oh, I meant the pifko method...

burgerkingtec hubs are awesome.

tried it last night.
serious rattle.
I think im going to just keep mine under my belt.