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Those lugs are fucking rad to the power of sick. If I hadn't just bought an expensive camera lens...or if it's going for £30...

i'm with h on this one.

put the strongshites in a bag with a brick and sling them into the thames

I want you to tell me, right now, exactly what is wrong with Stronglight cranks.

Overpay as much as possible before you do the fixed rate deal that way more of your payments will be off the capital.

This assumes I have savings. Oh to have savings. Or enough income to overpay!

Not that there has been any deflation. The CPI is down to 0%, but the RPI is still hitting 3.2% (see here). I would take RPI as the best measure of inflation, given that the CPI includes house prices, which, although lower, are a much lumpier measure, and the market is currently extremely illiquid.

Ah, see how flimsy my understanding of the whole thing is!

Cheer everyone for your help. I might just bite the bullet and fix at 5.99% for 5 years. Apparently the 10-year average is 5.84% or something so, as has been said, it's a small premium for certainty. I have heard that 5 years is a good term to go for as the market is likely to be on the up in 2-3 years, so getting a product which lasts that long could shaft you when you come to remortgage amidst rising rates.

And cheers esp to Ben for the PM. Will give them a call.

Anyone on here work in this horrid area of finance? I'm sure this will put me in the firing line for a good ripping but here goes anyway...

I came off my 2-year fixed rate, first time buyer mortgage product in Feb and onto Abbey's standard variable, currently at 4.24%. "Great", I thought, "I'm paying less now than I was on what at the time was a very good deal!" Now, a few things I've read and been told indicate that rates won't stay low for very long and may start to 'bounce' up and down, as can happen after a period of very quick deflation.

Unfortunately I have a shite loan to value of 87%, which puts me out of reach of the favourable mortgage products. Should I go with a 6% fixed rate now and be fucked whilst interest rates are low, or should I wait and get fucked later when they rise? Help!

I think I probably spend as little as 50% of the time I'm at work on work-related things. I'm at work as I type this, naturally.

If you end up having to pay, my advice would be to Sellotape the on-body flash shut and get a Speedlight.

I went into BLB the other day cos my drivetrain was slipping. Very nice man took my wheel off, checked cog, tightened lockring (the culprit) and replaced wheel to correct chain tension. "How much will that be?" I asked. Gratis. Go there.

I've got similar concerns about starting a new build with an old road frame. I did the homework on my last build, which was a frame with 126 mm rear dropouts - worked out that I would need a 103 mm bottom bracket to give correct chainline with Stronglight cranks and Formula hub (just squeezing the stays in on each side). Sure, the chainline was perfect...but the bolts on the crank spider gouged my chainstay when the cranks turned. The only way to resolve this was to get a 107 mm bb which threw the chainline out by 2 mm or a much longer one and put the chainring on the inside of the crank spider, thus fucking the aesthetics good 'n' proper. Needless to say I chose the former option, and actually it's fine - silent when clean and oiled.

I am looking at buying a frame with 130 mm dropouts. I want to buy a 120 mm hub. I know I will either need to cold-set the stays or space out the hub. My question is will wider stays make the above problem worse, ie will the stays be welded further apart at the bottom bracket? Advice appreciated.

Sadly I have to pull out of this. Was to be my first forum ride... Well done for organising it - it shows immense unity within the cycling community. RIP Eilidh and all the cyclists killed on our roads.

The frame's a pretty standard 70s Raleigh 531. I don't care about 'the future' - I want them gone. Anyone have experience of doing it? Can it be done cleanly enough to not show under a powder coat or should I take it to someone?

Want to do up an old frame isn't it. How does one go about safely removing braze-ons? Who do I take it to if I can't do it myself?

Speedo clocked 32.5 mph today, down Pepys Rd (next to Jerningham, on Telegraph Hill, SE14). 69 GI.

Maybe not quite as nasty but three times in the recent past my missus and I have had to dodge a purposely-aimed football in both Hackney and Brockley. They have been punted hard, narrowly missed, and I dread to think what would have happened if they'd connected at that speed. Little cunts.

Just finished Stuart - a life backwards by Alexander Masters. It's about a homeless guy in Cambridge. Funny, compelling, shocking. If you ever think, "My life's shit," read this.

I have one - fitted but unridden cos it was too short. £15.

I love lamp.

Going to powder coat a frame at Armourtex. They are charging per frame now but Jamesay said below that there is a group discount and apparently the colour doesn't matter. I will need to confirm this a will let you know tomorrow morning.

Price without discount: I spoke to them last week and the price for one frame (shotblasting and one layer of powder) is £49. Glossy finish is £15 and metallic £17

Damn, this has gone up substantially - £40 for blast and powder last time I asked...

Just bought...

I have these in 165 with a Surly stainless steel chainring so naturally I think they're the sex.

Dibs on the Banjo. Have PM'd you.

Cheers, Hippy - will start there, then. If anyone has that link to the online cycle fitting guide then please do post it.

Some helpful replies here - thanks. Anyone have rollers and enough experience to get me at least some way towards the "optimum biomechanical interface with the bike"? Could pay something or provide 'training beers'...

Didn't clock the whip or the threads but I spotted someone rocking one of those £2 perspex rear mudguards which someone was pimping on here recently - 09:45 ish, south side of Tower Bridge Road. Anyone?

1. Shinscar
   
2. Scott not scot
   
3. 50/14
   
4. Charco
   
5. P!MP
   
6. won't-do-hills
   
7. Big Daddy Wayne
   
8. horatio
   
9. cliveo
   
10. tomasito
    
11. Bianca
    
12. GA2G
    
13. eyebrows
    
14. rik
    
15. kattt
    
16. dante
    
17. VelocityBoy
    
18. ladystardust
    
19. gabes
    
20. villa-ru
    
21. alockett
    
22. spudger
    
23. Gina
    
24. mattty
    25.Object
    
25. hael
    
26. pIqUe
    
27. Elguapo
    
28. Gustav
    
29. WiganWill.
    31.tika
    
30. town
    
31. alexb
    
32. slag
    
33. murtle
    
34. Dandy Horse
    
35. VeeVee
    
36. fred
    
37. wools
    
38. Mrlemon
    
39. Squash
    
40. Dammit
    
41. yeh731
    
42. Vic
    
43. Matt (baddesigner)
    
44. Clefty
    
45. kowalski
    
46. fresh
    
47. Skully
    
48. Mini Skully
    
49. Timmy2wheels
    

I'm thinking about doing the Dunwich Dynamo this year. Previous longest ride is London to Brighton. Even on some shorter rides of around 20 miles I get back pain climing hills, sore wrists etc so I assume my bike is not set up right. I'm pretty sure my frame is correctly-sized but there are lots of other variables like seat post height, seat fore-aft position, stem length and height, type of bars and so on.

I know one can get 'bike fit' sessions where they help you sort these things out. Can anyone recommend somewhere to do this; or how about a lfgss meet-up dedicated to this, with some of the more experienced riders doing a workshop of sorts?