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Talked to them yesterday on the phone. They have been under a massive pressure since going on sale. Drew from Hub Jub explained to me that they had a lot of unanswered emails still and was working on replying them.

In my case they didn't have anymore og the H plus Son rims I ordered (anlong with a set of Kinlin ADHN). They told me this via email and asked if I wanted the rest of my order at a 30 percent discount. Yet they charged the full amount inc money for the H plus Son they didn't have stock. After a couple of angry emails I called them up to ask what is up. Drew apologised, transfered back the money they extra-charged me.

It was all quite annoying, but in the end they corrected their mistake and was polite and nice about it all. They are a small company and struggling to be pro. On the other hand it is a nice and personal web shop where you can call them up and to talk to the owners in person. I would not hesitate to shop there again.

Haha that wouldn't be done by me. I LOVE GUM WALLS!

Fixed it.

Thank you. Yes and the rims I have chosen are mega as well. Rear tyre will fit in the frame no problem. Only front tyre clearance in Columbus Fel fork might be an issue.

I am not sure whether I should go for now. @Scilly.Suffolk you have a link for full article? Or is it only IRL?

Thank you

My GF is short as well. I have now built her 3 proper bikes. Either she ends up with a slack geo or toe overlap. My next project for her would be a custom 26"/ 2.2" hydro disc frameset and probably mtb groupset/ hylex dropbars like my own. I think you are onto something good, but I would def consider 26". If you opt for steel forks and 1 1/8" forks you could also get much better proportions and make it look like a 700c. if you choose 44mm it will look cramped and dis-harmonic imo. If you make the bb real low with 26" /2.2" you could put on 650b wheelset with skinny tyres if she want's that roadbike feel later on.

Dunno. I wouldn't ride Open Paves in the winter in DK, but if you wouldn't mind doing it in the UK, I guess I see no reason for not giving the Challenges a go. Weird logic perhaps. I just thought puncture protection would be the same, as they seem to have similar weight, thread pattern and size.

PR: 300 tpi, 27mm, 285g,
OP: 320, 27mm, 285g,

The lower tpi on the PR suggest to me that, although not a lot, sidewalls will be tougher. And they state: "Road / Cobble / Gravel Racing / Big Riders" Which sounds like me

Well 50-100km countryside with occasional country lanes. But during winter I normally stay on tarmac.

I will probably give PR a go..

Haven't ridden a winter in the UK yet. Will Challenge Paris Roubaix or Open Pave just be plain stupid to use? Won't mind tyres getting dirty, but will I be standing roadside, angry and frustrated?
In DK I would have gone for Durano Plus or GP4000 with anti puncture belt (don't know the correct term).

You could do it without. Maybe need a chain catcher on the inside. But often it works without.
I am building something similar. 1x8 speed. But I opt for a used 104bcd square taper chainset instead. This made it possible to get narrow wide chainrings for less than 20gbp. I went for the on one, but ebay has other brands as well.

I will ride mine offroad as well as city. If you won't do that, you can live without narrow wide I bet.

Thank you for answers all. You make life easy.

I do not wish to fight either. Will you explain to me why you think bicycle weight doesn't matter in cyclocross?

Thank you for doing that. Quite helpful. I am going to race this season. Is it all pay and play or do you need membership in clubs and payed license? Maybe just a link to where I can read about it?!

Maybe get alu sliders and it will be light enough for you. I am getting some paragon for my bike as soon as Ceeway stocks them again

http://www.henryjames.com/henry-james-laser-cut-dropouts.html

@josh you should get some of these conversion dropouts maybe

Thank you. Mario Vaz got the job.

If there is one place where weight matters it is Cx. Of course depending on your level and overall goals.

https://flic.kr/p/xCSRu8

Horrible sketch done on the train. But maybe you could get a bracket made in 1.5-2mm stainless and bend like a hanger. This bracket could be mounted under the crown race of the headset and bolt onto the mudguard. It wouldn't change the geometry dramatically and would be easy to change if you had a split crown race.

It says Ravn on the top tube

Are you actually going to race it? Or is it going to do other stuff as well?

• Sliding is much heavier, but easy wheel change. You will have loosen and tighten 4bolts to change gear.

• Track ends are the lightest, easy enough to change wheel but slower than vertical dropouts. Also 4 bolts to change gear. Two on hub (unless QR) and two on brake caliper. Works shitty with mudguards.

• ebb looks clean, but is heavy and expensive. Plus I would want bsa.

My next frame would probably be a sscx specific frame with cococino cocomoto style dropouts instead of sliding

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-84ecVr5TpSw/VHIPUAsWlxI/AAAAAAAAQRY/Tn4x3ngFtIQ/s1600/IMG_6325.JPG

You could get it with heaths gear hanger. If canti same applies I believe. Track ends because of less weight

If I didn't care about what I ride, I wouldn't have started making frames in the first place.
And it felt like living :-)

The frame and forks are now in Mario's hands and he will be done mid next week.
I went with a colour he had on display. It is somewhere in between all three contenders :-)

That sounds like Columbus gara to me. I could be wrong, but all the Marin's an other America atbs I have owned were either 27.0 or 30.0 if plain gauge

Lol.

I will sleep on it and hopefully I have the right choice tomorrow ;-) More green than blue, that is for sure.

haha. true dat