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Hey rudder, interested in the Miche cranks and rings, I'm helping kam on his build but also need some myself, either way interested in both sets and rings, in line after kam of course. Pm'd.

Hey Marie, is there an expiry date on the voucher? As long as it's valid for a little while yet I can probably take it off you, PM if still looking...

Nice work VP, always happy to help, and thanks again for the bagels - good for at least 80km they were!
Ride safe ;-)

That looks fine to me, if it doesn't touch... then it doesn't touch and it's OK. Like ^winston says, if you can't push the chain much nearer to the spokes then it's not going to get there when riding. BTW, you were right to spot that was a BB lockring spanner I referred to in t'other thread, a whole bit of my rambling went missing which was along the line of 'if you get sold a spanner purporting to be for sprocket lockrings but ain't...' - there's a lot on eBay of course.

I've PM'd you details, cheers H

Hey Eric, I've got a very un-bling but basically new 27.0 black seat post you are welcome to borrow until yours arrives, you can collect from SE1, I'm in tomorrow evening and Friday eve, PM if you want it/to arrange, cheers H

FYI there are different types of blasting, and generally the different types are referred to interchangeably whereas they all have different characteristics and benefits/disadvantages. All use compressed air as the propellant to fire particles at the object you want to clean. Shot blasting as it suggests actually uses metal particles, and leaves a characteristic 'peened' finish i.e. very fine dimpling. Not great for threads unless used with care. Sandblasting is very abrasive and gets rid of everything including your frame if not used carefully. Bead blasting is the best but often most expensive, uses tiny glass beads and gives a very fine finish (which looks great until it rusts again) and with no damage to the threads and other fine detail on the frame. It's worth knowing what you are getting when you take your frame somewhere to be 'blasted'.
Meanwhile, a small wire brush and elbow grease to get rid of the loose stuff then real grease to prevent recurrance is your best bet if you are not stripping the whole frame.

it's all Dutch to me... ooops, done it again. Apologies to the world, retro posts normally certified fully PC compliant.

and, err, it IS Japanese!

A proper tool is always best IMHO. Unfortunately, a lot of cheap tools are almost as useless as no tools. Here is what a lot of cheap lockring spanners look like when applied:

i.e. the fit is rubbish and when you apply any torque, they start to slip off.

Tip of the day if you have one like this or similar - use a 6mm allen key and stick the tip into the opposing notch on the lockring, it then grips much better:

Even better, this is what a 'proper' tool fits like, i.e. perfect!:

the best £12 spent in a while on tools, worth its weight. Probably NJS certified, came in a natty poly bag with a label all in Japanese.

Good plan - I'm assuming the 'damage to rear of the frame' is where they used the frame to lever the U-lock open...

Anyone lost an Ortowski?

Looks well dodgy, selling for £75 here:
http://www.gumtree.com/london/78/30806278.html

Anyone missing an Ortowski?

This looks well dodgy, going for £75:
http://www.gumtree.com/london/78/30806278.html

1st dibs please subject to a few questions and depending on where in the world you are!? Is it 9 or 10 speed, tried to count the sprockets but I shoulda gone to Specsavers instead? PM me if still available.

£120? Can collect this weekend pretty much anytime.
^ sorry, scrub that, thought it would suit a mate but he's too fussy and/or broke. As you were...

That's a very good guide for sure. In my experience, the grease doesn't freeze anyway, most mineral oil based products have a low freezing point, and bearing grease for things like wheels is designed not to get too viscous at low temperatures for obvious reasons. The benefit of making it easier rather than just whacking them in is that the bit where most people manage to fnck it up is starting to hammer and the bearing going crooked, thereby damaging the hub. Removing the need to hammer so hard reduces this risk.

Sold to nineteenseventytwo, lucky chap. Thanks all...

A variation on the above if the wheel is still built up is to put the bearings in the freezer for an hour and then gently heat the hub around area the bearing goes in to with a hot air gun or hairdryer until hot to touch - don't overdo it as localised heat can distort stuff. This should certainly make it easier, might even be a simple drop-in as per the oven method. The other reason for not overdoing heating is destroying any paint/lacquer on the hub (if there is any) but they're generally pretty tough.

Thanks again for the +ve support an' that, have to say everyone I've met personally from the forum have been top guys, and hope to meet more. My weekend participation hampered by part time care of 2 small boys - however hard I work them on the turbo after school they still can't keep up on the road. They both ride single speed tho'. Irony is that the frame's not even mine and I'm not making a penny out of it, offered to sell it in London for a guy out of town who bought a cheap frame off me. This is what you get for doing favours! Anyway, look forward to meeting more of you at a drinks sometime soon. Cheers...

Hey, thanks for the support guys, and Dale, I'm here because I enjoy riding, building and fixing bikes - I have absolutely no interest in bickering with you online. That said, just because I have started only one non-Classified thread so far doesn't mean I haven't contributed to the LFGSS forum in other areas, and helped guys out. I'm sure it would be a different tune if you actually wanted the frame. Again, it's not my business, a mate and I splashed some redundancy money last year on some frames and bits, one of those good ideas gone bad things, it's not a long term plan, and I'd like to see some of it go to good homes.

If anyone wants to offer £290 we can end this thread and get on with enjoying bikes. First dibs to Vinylpimp at that price.

Yeah well thanks for your comments dogsballs, but like I said before, I think you're being unfair - I have posted on several threads in the Mechanics and Fixing, helped out several guys with bits and pieces they needed and couldn't find, I've given a load of stuff away free to various appreciative people AND offered the use of a wide range of tools I have at home (and help). I'm not a business, I do this just to feed my own habit (also involves some miss-spent redundancy money) AND I've only posted stuff that I thought would be of interest to LFGSS members. Specifically since a lot of LFGSS members lust after Bob's and this is a really nice one and I thought someone out there would like first dibs before I advertise it elsewhere. Anyway, thanks for bumping the post.

£319.95 - we're all hurtin' here! Is it your size or are you just haggling for the fun of it? ;-)

SOLD!

Form an orderly queue and beat the one at the factory for a lovely Bob Jackson Vigorelli frameset in near mint condition, less than 6 months old.

Deep metallic blue with yellow transfers and lug lining. Non-standard options include full chrome fork and mudguard eyes front and rear for the path frame look (or for getting less wet in the rain). Also has single bottle mounts. Comes with equally new Ultegra threaded headset. Size 52cm seat tube, 53cm top tube. Has had light use, so some very minor rub marks etc., the only real point of note is a chip out of the left side transfer (shown) which could be touched up with some yellow paint.

Couple of minor chips in the blue have been touched in with the BJ supplied touch-up paint (BJ? Touch-up? Go on, have your fun). Came my way via a deal on another frame, would be keeping it for sure but not my size :(
So, any takers at £320?
Welcome to come and have a look, it's in SE1

not at the moment, but they are such a standard combination of components there's probably a million on the interweb - the braking surfaces are smooth, un-scored, and with just some signs of use, could probably be cleaned up near new if I could be bothered, but I'm not... there's someone coming to look in the next day or so, if you're still interested I'll PM you if he doesn't take them. Cheers H

Quick bump before 'Bay, anyone? £100 cash collected, I hate posting wheels....

^yours if it's not his, give him a while to respond