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I fear that the upcoming weekend's weather will bring on the full scale nodder crit from hell on Monday.

My usual commuting route involves the CS7 which I may well avoid... at least for the first week.

Dont think so... looks like it happens 5m after the manhole cover.

yes, please ignore

Failed to realise I was reading one page behind... my comment ^ seems fairly out of place now.

Was a fairly keen triathlete for several seasons... Never saw anyone with clips in their running shoes. Can only imagine it being extremely uncomfortable due to the extra stiffness that would be required for the cleat platform.

Tri shoes are generally single straps because it is much easier to do up one single strap whilst on the fly for those that start the bike with shoes already clipped in.

In other news my core drilling went very well over the weekend and I know have a neatly piped in extraction pipe for the tumble dryer and the new utility room is done bar a new door

Very useful advise here ^^^^^ so thanks all. The HSS diamond core driller rental seemed like a good deal for £35 all in with loads of different sized core drill bits included.

^ Replacing the pipe might also give you the opportunity to run it in a less conspicious place although looks like you also have a gas pipe running along the same wall?

On the proofing/breathability front it depends what you intend to use the space for. For storage etc I would be tempted to seal it up or else whatever you are storing will get moldy/mildewing over time. Not too familiar with brick sealants but imagine you can probably get a breathable one.

Gone with the HSS offer - lets see what Satruday brings!

I've been doing a bunch of drilling through tiles with a smaller diamond core driller using quite low rpm to prevent heat build up. Should I be using the same technique with this or go full welly?

No coming back on here bitching about bits missing from your............

Not up high thankfully... warning gratefully received nonetheless though.

Thinking about drilling a pilot/guide hole and then drilling from the outside and inside to meet in the middle to prevent big chunks of brick being pushed out if I go all the way through from one direction. Necessary or not?

Thanks for the advice gents. And thanks for the offer of tool lending Dammit - where are you based SE?

HSS is doing a discount at the moment meaning I could get SDS drill + required core drill bit for £30 for the day. Seems reasonable.

As part of a newly renovated bathroom and utility room I need to create a hole for a tumble dryer vent through the external wall which is plaster-brick-brick-render from inside to outside. Its seems my two options are:

(1) Buy a core drill piece (circa £50) and get busy

(2) Drill a series of smaller holes with the (lengthy) masonry bit I already own and chisel out the gaps to create the hole.

I feel like the second option is going to give a shoddy finish at best given that it is an old victorian property and the walls are prone to a bit crumbling around any significant drilling. Should I just bite the bullet and buy the core drill bit?

Will my current drill be man enough for the job?

Fresh prince google maps I mean

most dissapointed... not real

I'm thinking about buying a Merckx Corsa Extra Columbus SLX Frame and fitting with modern compenents.

How will this ride compared to:

(1) A modernish carbon frame (my current roadbike is a 2009 Cannodale Synapse)?

(2) A good modern steel frame

?

Mosiacs - never again.

Cheers - reasonably pleased given it was my first go at tiling.

Tiles go up to the top of window. The walls curve inwards at ceiling height (still haven't figured why - its a victorian converted flat) so easiest option seemed to to match to top of window.

Bathroom renovation is slowly getting there. Tiling finally done bar sealing around corners and bath. Took much longer than anticipated.

Now onto painting and hanging doors... before second fix of sink, towel rail, shower, and toilet.

Would also be interested in the cranks+ring. PM on the way

Just read the top of the page, 2mm out - you are a more diligent man than I!

Much more thorough (read level) than my somewhat 'rustic' efforts with levelling compound last week. Did you have areas with 3-4mm+ difference? I have a couple of areas that are on the border but hoping to fix with a healthy application of adhesive during tiling tomorrow/over the weekend.

My experience with my Curanas was pretty mixed. They don't do a great job keeping your feet dry and the aluminium failed where there rear stay attaches to the plastic clip (which also got loose over time causing an annoying rattle)

We moved toiliet, sink, radiator and installed new shower so there was a lot of moving plumbing waste pipes and supplies. I would probably have had a go myself were it not for the fact that the bath is the only thing that hasn't moved.

Great stuff.

Is it reasonable to think you could do a whole bathroom by yourself?

The only problem I can see is that the bathroom is the only one in the house so I'd ideal like it turned around quickly.

The toilet and sink are switching places and the bath is being turned around so we can fit a shower on the wall.

As we're tilling the whole lot I figured I could just dry line the new wall. We haven't decided on a flooring choice yet.

Would my best bet be to have someone come in and rip all our suite out and replace it with the new one, then I can start work on tiles/ painting and flooring.

I'm currently going through a similiar process re the bathroom - complete renovation and its the only bathroom in the house.

I have done all the work myself except for the plumbing and some plastering which I paid a contractor to do. Was a great way to keep the cost down.

Only word of warning is that if you are working full time and just working evening/weekends on the bathroom certain tasks can take a while - I'm currently into the 5th day of tiling and I thought I would be about done by now but I've only just started on the floor.

Having tanked my shower area I have over half of the kit left (tape and sealant). If you fancy it let me know (free/small donation to the forum). Should easily be enough to do a decent size shower area but probably not enough to do a whole wetroom.

Its the Granfix wetroom tanking kit...

http://www.bathroom2u.com/granfix-wetroom-tanking-liquid-waterproofing-kit-p-23824.html

Whats the general consensus on how to prep fresh plaster for tiling?

Tend to be two differing views online, (1) coat of pva cut with water 50/50 or (2) coat with specialist product such as http://goo.gl/DhK5S (also watered down)

Everyone seems to recommend 6 weeks for the plaster to dry out but as this is going on in the only bathroom in the house I can't wait this long.Plastering took place about a week ago and (just about) all of the dark areas have disappeared. I was planning on waiting for it to all look dry and then plough ahead with painting and tiling - foolhardy or just foolish I am not sure.