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Just been having a google. Lots of folk make 'em it seems - quite expensive some of them.
I don't like the look of full length ones with all that messy hardware - it there really a need? I've never used mudguards myself so I've no idea...
Surely something light, short, and easily mountable like dante's would be more than adequate? -
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Right, by compound curve to you mean along two planes, not one? Too tricky perhaps.
Maybe sanding (or reaming or what have you) out a dipped section along the length then, once it's been laminted with a flat section. Maybe a bevel or step along the edges of the top would look ace with contrasted layers of wood?
27" rim jig probably a good idea, though the final product ought to have enough flex to allow fitting to diff wheel/tyre combos pretty easily. I don't know about the adhesive side of it but presumably one that doesn't harden too much will work.
Yeah, they'd come out with a little flex in 'em for sure, though they'd have a pretty strong "memory" to their first position, so if you wanted them hold at a different radius you'd need to support them there with mountings.
I'll start doing some research see if I can knock something up
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yeah yeah yeah!
jammy
I would copy the profile of the Salmon mudguards, if you were going to try this out. They aren't totally flat, they have a lip running along the edge, so the inside has an edge that help stop water from coming out of the sides. If you make guitars and thus have good tools this may not be too much hassle for you.Presumably the whole point of laminating would be to do your own lam in a jig (made of old rims?) with the arc already set up, thus no 'bending' anything... in which case one could also make them have a curved section, presumably?
The compound curve would be possible, but tricky. I'd have to build up a larger mudguard blank out of stripwood laminated round a form, then shape it to the final profile with a spokeshave.
RE: using old rims for a form. Wouldn't I want the radius slightly larger than the wheel (EG use 27" rims for a 700c wheel) to allow the gaps to be even when it's set back from the tire.
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Sounds like a plan.
A plan that I have no idea how to carry out.
help?
Hold in some pliers. Sand.
Rotate. Sand.They'll end up marginally smaller, and if you keep track of the faces you've worked on, you could even make them a really nice fit for the heads.
I recommend sticking some sandpaper to a bit of wood and moving the ball bearing held in the pliers over it. -
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good man.