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Mine just fell out after ripping the cranks off, luckily I hadn't hurt the threads on either, and just needed a standard crank puller.

The self-extractor bit works on just an allen key.
you use the allen key to turn in one direction and the whole crank should come off.
Then take off the plastic bit and you're left with a normal crank bolt.
You have to have the cranks off to remove it.

Be Careful!
And unless you are ever going to change the cranks to a new frame I wouldn't risk it.

The "x'tractor" on my cranks is made of metal, not plastic. Looks like any other self extracting bolts with two pin holes to allow the external piece to be unscrewed. Only it won't turn so I will just leave it.

Have used extractor bolts that look like this before without any issues. Hoping yours were different, which they were if they were plastic.

This has happened to me on every (new type) stronglight crank I've ever used.
They're self extracting plastic shitness knows no boundaries.
They should be burned and their ashes pissed on.
fucking useless design.

I know use Miche.

Got me worried now as I have just put a set of Stronglight cranks on. How do you remove the self extracting bit, I tried putting two pins in but couldn't turn them. Better not require another dedicated tool for the toolbox!

you say some odd things sometimes

Only sometimes :-)

What I was getting at was there was no risk of anticipating the wrong thing, i.e. are the lights going to change - with brake I would speed up and then stop if they did change. Without brake I probably wouldn't speed up as stopping as quickly is just not as easy (simply because skidding is not as efficient as a front brake)

Slowing down with a brake is more controlled than skidding and more efficient that slowing down with legs. No wasting time trying to anticipate, can just use brake if it happens and if it doesn't happen then haven't had to slow down.

Saying that, I don't use brakes myself as the majority of my riding is in the New Forest where there is very low traffic, no traffic lights and very few junctions so very little need to ever slow down or stop.

for that type of money you could by open pro's laced to 105 or ultegra hubs. 10x stronger and same weight.

mmm, 10x stronger you say?

Open pros on 105 look very dull though, some people want something that looks more modern. And if same weight why not?

The Steamroller fails your 2nd point as it isn't particularly fast/twitchy or tight. In fact it is anything but tight with the huge clearances.

Hehe, well i'd still be spinning away....59/24 gives around 66 gear inches!

And more skid patches than you can shake that stick at. One advantage of that combination using large ring/sprocket

I have got 28 hole Novatecs on my Navigator wheels. So if you are after cheap hubs Novatec make 28s.

I was using 48*18 all weekend and it has hurt my knees. Waiting for my 19t to turn up.

You won't know until you try a few different ratios what is best for you as spinning too fast can also cause problems for some people.

How about YOU suck my balls mister.

Too small for me I'm afraid. I only suck the balls of real men.

Fools indeed.

People with different tastes, that is all. Nobody is a fool.

Well, maybe you are :-)

I wouldn't approach a policeman when on my bike as I would get done myself for having an illegal bike!

What's an audaxs?

My point, is that they spend 12 hours in the saddle. Comfort is the most important factor. If 23c was particularly uncomfortable, then they couldn't use them.

Comfort is more down to saddle/shorts (ignoring position) than anything else. imo.

They also want to ride at a good pace for 300km. A 500gram tyre might not be the best choice for that.
Also a bit of an assumption that all 28s are more comfortable than 23s. A stiff walled 28 like an Armadillo will probably be less comfortable than a supple 23 like a GP4000 IMO.
I would guess the Rando is in the stiff wall category?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TRACK-HIGH-PROFILE-RIMS-SILVER-ROUGH-36-HOLES-FIXIE_W0QQitemZ230317273457QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCycling_Parts_Accessories?hash=item230317273457&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

830 grams each! Like having 2 Open Pros glued together :-)

look great! the ahead stem look fucking queer on a skinny headtube I must says.

Agree, but not helped by using a Thomson which is one of the chunkiest stems.

Still, I shouldn't be commenting as it got me in to trouble a few weeks back with the whole quill stem on a steel frame mantra...

Yep buy it. Why stick with steel, alu makes a stiffer, lighter frame. And in my recent experience the whole comfort thing is unproven as my stiff alu track frame is just as comfortable as the butted steel frame it replaced.
The sceptics/engineers seriously question whether the human body could detect the difference in frame materials anyway (no machine can), given that the tyres are absorbing shock, what else is there to feel?

Don't tell anyone I said that though as there are a lot of believers here :-)

not necessary brakeless, those size is a decent all round, 23c is zippy and responsive, but not exactly comfortable, whether I think an 25c would be a good compromise.

So if the 28 is for comfort then again why get a lead weight, un-supple 28 like the Vittoria?

Having just that tyre on the rear tyre would either be for lots of skidding or a wheelie tour of the country

if it cheap, buy it, sell the tubs rims, get clincher one and rebuild wheel.

that if it quite cheap.

Surely you would keep the tubs though Ed, what with those legendary tyre changing skills I have heard about :-)

I'm not at her flat, argh, fucking bastard cunting tyres.

Let's hope it doesn't feel too heavy once you ride on it and lead you to swap to a lighter tyre :-)

It should be calculated relative to your frame (body not bike) and to what you like.

I hate when people engaged in sports succumb to the limited range of motion in their joints, that, my friends, is a slippery slope.

Peace

It should be calculated on efficiency and what feels best. This may or may not have anything to do with your frame. The problem is this would take a lot of experimenting and a high cost, which I guess is why people just stick within the limits of the mass market.

25c front Gatorskins, 28c rear of Vittoria Radonneur or Top Contact.

job done.

That assumes some skidding/brakeless activity doesn't it? May not need that lead weight on the rear if no skidding.

That eBay Vigorelli deserves to go in the anti-porn thread - it's hideous

You don't fancy the buy it now for £1500?

Guess you would just buy all the parts seperately and save some money, plus have a brand new bike to boot :-)

but the rollapaluza record was smashed left right and center on 175mm cranks!

Just think what he could have done on 165s :-)

I am assuming you mean on the flat as 30mph is slow downhill.
I have never measured it though so will do when I next put my GPS on my bike as I am interested to see.

mike burrows reckons that shorter cranks are better. He uses 150mm ones and recommends them for people with limited movement.

I think he went shorter than that for his son? and set his bike up with 120mm or something around that.

The problem is people have pre conceived ideas on what length a crank should be, and as we know Mike loves to challenge those ideas!
He does state to give it a few weeks for the body to acclimatise rather than just do a quick 10 miles and stating something is rubbish.