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531 is a shining beacon of light compare to 4130 of which tend to be use in BMX frame for strength as they're considerably stronger than standard steel.

that's why it's quite cheap compare to the other lugged frame such as Bob Jackson, BLB Classic, etc.

That's not true. 4130 is very similar to 531 in weight and strength. 4130 is just more generic, doesn't mean it is a lesser product. As with all tubing, make sure it is butted.

Hey, thanks for the reply all.

Any actual Steamroller user who can share their experience too?

I have had 3 Steamrollers and they are a very nice ride (I may actually keep my present one for a change!) The geometry is very good for the road, much better imo than a track bike where the bottom bracket is too high and the position is too over the front. Gives a comfortable ride with quick enough handling.
Not sure where all the comments on being heavy are coming from, I would say it is average for a steel frame and forks. Maybe 200 grams heavier than high end steel frames (let's face it, if you want a light frame get alloy or carbon)

My previous bike was a Colnago Dream Lux Pista and yes it was a more expensive and lighter bike but it didn't feel as nice on the road as a Steamroller.

A couple of them are here ==> http://www.fizzypeach.co.uk/bike.html

Can you define 'ride like shit' a little more clearly. I've had two bikes with toe overlap both where highly manoeuvreable in traffic, went like the clappers and one was pretty decent on a long run (100 miles).

Toe overlap is one thing, but zero rake forks are another aren't they as far as handling is concerned? Cycle speedway riders don't have to steer much as they just lean round the corner. Saying that, it could be fine to ride, I have never ridden one.
I have owned a flatland BMX that had zero rake and that didn't feel much different than a normal BMX so worth trying to get a test ride.

Interesting prices on the Archie Wilkinson site. Why does everything in the cycle speedway world seem so cheap. Would have expected the opposite as it is a very niche thing isn't it?
Agree it could make quite a good street bike (although they must be on the small side looking at the frames/wheels)

Tempted to buy one and ride round and round my pond to get into the spirit of it.

If we are talking cheap rims and formula hubs I bought a set from Webbline for £100 that may be equivalent to the Charge wheelset (assuming the rims are cheap/unknown)
And as stated above, I got to choose lacing (radial on the front)

I've been using them for a few months. Seem well enough made and have remained very smooth but they are pretty much the same as all the others in the same price range.
I don't get too excited about hubs though, as long as they spin smoothly and hold the spokes in place then I am happy!

Drops, as when riding a bike I like to go as fast as I can (fitness allowing). That means riding in the drops as much as possible. Flats and risers are just slower.

fyi kerley, i was in SF a few weeks ago, and i was looking into the folsom (i too find mystique buried deep within its unpretentious & utilitarian facade) and converting it to a fixed; i spoke with most of them (swobo) about what this would take, here are a few tokens;

a) its been designed to fit 700c wheels, if youd like to upgrade from teh 26"
b) its a stock mtb rear spacing, so any mtb hub (currently uncoveted by the ignorant "shoreditch hipster wankathon" - and thus cheap) should slot right in.
c) surly sells both a 135mm (mtb spaced) disk (for the london fixie cog option) & non disk fixed (for the traditional cog & lockring solution) hub for 70 usd, if your looking for a cheap(er) solution- both not needing axle & cone retrofitting

Thanks carlito. I no longer have the bike as I am now solely using a Steamroller. I did get it to work with an XT hubbed wheel and very nice it was. Turned into a very light off road machine at around 9kgs but off roading was playing up an old war wound from a bike accident a year ago and the Surly is much better for road.

Horizontal definitely correct especially if using the drops. Angled up is good if you hold the top sides though so probably a sign of someone who doesn't use the drops.

They are fine on the road, no braking surface though unless you don't need one of course.
Not sure how you are measuring performance but a set of Open Pros on Miche hubs would be as good as Pistards (weight, strength etc,. if not better) and similar price.

How would you rate them?

Of the steel frame I would say Dialled first, P7 second and On-One third. The Dialled just has a feel of quality over the over two although they all ride and handle pretty much the same (all used with rigid carbon forks)
The Chameleon was more fun if in the mood (more BMX feel to it) but slightly less comfortable and very stiff frame.

The worrying thing is that I have owned 3 of those (On one, Dialled and P7) plus a Santa Cruz Chameleon.
God, I've got a bad bike habit.

I am using the Sugino and a 103 would be the correct one. I am using with a 107 and the chaninline is a few mm's out.
The problem is that the cranks are not track specific (i.e they are built for two chainrings - one on outside, one on inside)
So using the outside position (which is best cosmetically) throws it right out.

I've owned both. Dialled would be my only choice if I was after another SS. Much nicer finish and feel and just a sense of higher quality.
Both actually ride okay though.

nice one Sano. i guess we will all recommend what works for us. i use shimano M540 and sidi mtb shoes. i have had a go on the pedals Object uses and they work nice too. the only one i would say be sure to avoid are the eggbeaters.

it ain't that dark dude. when i saw the thread title i thought you were getting a geared bike! as i will be v soon

Why no eggbeaters? I have used the same pair for 4 years with no problems. (low weight, very easy to clip in, don't get clogged up)

If i had to run one brake with a freewheel it would be the back, because you can use properly it in corners and low speed manouvers, and if it locks up you aren't fucked.

Its like on a motorbike, you use the front 90% of the time, and only use the rear for corrective braking in the corners, but it is this that makes you able to ride the bike safely. A lot of custom bikes only run a rear brake to achieve a clean look ( a bit like fixed gears), but use a big un and it its perfectly good on the road, though you do sacrifice some ultimate stopping power

Or just maybe learn how to use your brake? I don't ever lock mine up and I don't brake on corners as that is just bad riding.

Saying that, on BMXes I always just had a rear but BMX brakes are hopeless anyway and more for very slightly slowing rather than stopping!

I've a few bikes; road, SS mountain and track...
Personally a lot of the argument for SS & Fixed is bull, "the freedom of not worrying about gears" "oneness with my bike" etc... Untill about 3 years ago all the bikes i rode had gears and guess what? it never worried me and i was experienced enough to know when to change them appropriately.

I wish people would just admit that riding fixed is simply novel or fashionable & SS isn't a big departure from a geared bike (bar slight weight difference & no derailleur to catch on rocks).

Please Please i wish people would stop taking derailleurs off their old road bikes, but keeping the cassettes and running SS. THEN also taking off the rear brake. WTF. It makes more sense to keep the rear brake then remove the front one if your so concerned with bike/component weight loss. This behovour is on the rise it seems.

I've ridden fixed for 5 years now and definitely feel that oneness with the bike that you clearly miss. I had a brief spell with a shiny new carbon road bike a few years ago but only lasted 2 months as it never felt right.
Some people likes gears, I naturally don't seem to (could be obsessive BMX riding from age 8 - age 17 maybe?) That doesn't make you right or me right, just different.
Having said that, I do feel single speed gives a pointless feeling on the road (off road it is great though)
And it is always better to remove the rear brake as the front has more stopping power.

Where abouts in the nf. Saw some guy in Sopley once riding along.

I live just up the road from Burley so ride to Brockenhurst, Bealieu, Lymington, Ringwood etc,.. If I was in Sopley then I would have been going into Bournemouth probably.

Riding a Steamroller at the moment (my 3rd Steamroller, must keep this one!)

I spend all year riding the New Forest as I live in it. Might seem tranquil but that can turn to boredom (no traffic to tussle with, no interaction with anything other than dodging the odd horse or cow) and I find myself heading into town more often than not.
The fact I can do a 30 mile route without stopping once is nice though...

Things that make a difference to me are bottom bracket height vs headtube length. High BB short headtube against lower BB longer headtube but on same size frame can make a big difference on saddle to bar height drop which is difficult to get around without having a stupidly high stem (unless you like the Rivendell look of course!)

Yep definitely more grey than black for Open Pro CD (don't need to be ceramic though so could save some £s as the standard CDs keep their colour on the braking surface)

No reason for it other than fashion victim. If you need a stronger wheel up front for tricks then just get a flatland bmx and learn how to do proper tricks - too hard? thought so :-)
I think mis-matched looks awful but that probably says more about my mind wanting symmetry in everything and not a good trait!

I would have said single speed is better for off road after riding off road single speed for 5 years (single speed on the road just doesn't feel as nice as fixed) but having ridden fixed off road for a couple of months it feels better there too!
Seems to make the old routes more interesting, plus skid stopping around is much more fun.
Admittedly I need the additional challenge as I live in the New Forest

I got my new Medium Rapha Cap today. It's larger than it used to be, or maybe my head has shrunk.

I've heard they have just brought out a scarf that would go with that cap a treat.

It seems opinion is split on the value of it though...

that ebay 'tat' is an 1930's deco original

you can always spot the bloody peasants innit

You didn't include the link so hard for me to know that! And whether it is 1930s or not is down to whether you believe the seller I guess.

Maybe there isn't a market for 80 year old scarves? Maybe there isn't a market for 50 quid Rapha scarves either, time will tell.
Still seems cheap compared to my wifes Hermes ones...