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rear wheel still around?

I'll second that, or is it thirds.

I think that a more aero wheel on the back seems to be the way of the pros both road riders and track riders alike, though by the time it has gotten past your front wheel, frame, trainers, toe clips, straps and jeans I would doubt it makes any noticeable difference to your average city rider. Plus sitting pretty upright on risers wearing a shirt isn't the most aero technique either.

On a technie note M.I.T. did some wind tunnel tests and found that in terms of aerodynamics one's head and helmet is by far the most problematic area and that from a saving energy point of view you are more efficient with a £200 TT helmet and normal wheels than an normal helmet and a £5000 set of dimpled carbon disks.

That said I do really like the way odd wheels look on the right set-up (and nick's(?) Memphisesque Aerospoke was amzingly nice.)

Oh and a fixed gear is a gear you can't change, singlespeed, BMX, cruiser or what have you, a fixed wheel is a wheel which is not free ie a track wheel.
I always thought a fixie was a road bike which had been fixed whilst a track bike is well...

how about a yellow deep v (unmachined) with a single-sided phil wood track hub?

Hi asm,

Thanks for the offer but I think I'll hang on. It sounds nice but I'm not massively into bright colours and, I might be wrong, but that wheel couldn't have been hugely more than £160 when it was new?

So, as much as I like the idea of phil's, still for sale/trade,

Cheers,

David

thanks,yeah i think i found that aus shop i mailed them but under the impression its not actually in stock,a guy in us said his local was doing a phil group buy so i may get in o that for a custom drill set,I still need to find a nice 32h rear rim for everyday use Im hoping the campag atlantas i spoke with a guy on here about come through but its gone a bit quite.just want to get built and get riding now.

If Oz doesn't work out I hope that group order comes through in budget. If everyone wants 16's should be a good bit cheaper I'd imagine.

And, with a bit of luck, you're gonna build some atlantas up! That must be quite a whip. (I saw a pair with kn@ckered hubs go unsold on ebay with a £45 starting price, I stupidly missed them but, I suppose they may come up again.)

Best of luck with it.

Phil's are going to be stronger than campag track hubs so it probably would be fine, but still, a £100ish back wheel dismantled, the spokes aren't going to fit so plus 16 new aero spokes is gonna be £32, a phil rear is £170 or something. Plus a build if you don't do it yourself, what's that, another £20 at least. If I was going to get a +£300 back wheel....
I've never seen a bit of campag anywhere near a unipack, so do they have funny laced wheels then, what's that about? If they want to be more aero couldn't they just get someone who isn't incompetent to do the welding?

I looked into this a while ago and remember that Miche did apparently do a 16 hole hub but I never managed to find one. Some shop in Australia had them listed but out of stock. Also Mack (custom I think) and American Classics, or, obviously, but also obviously super rare, campag (shamal track specific I presume).

I also looked into the whole 16 rim 32 hub deal and remember a couple of warnings one of which involved some sort of problem with alternating stress which involved some sort of XoxO style explanation and pics of cracked flanges, and also the whole 'less spokes = more stress = don't drill more than you have to' explanation which made more sense to my non wheel building brain. Of course there are also loads of "I weigh 20 stone and ride down hills on a 16/32 setup" stories which would imply that it is totally fine. I don't have personal experience so can't support either side. That said, I do know track hubs on the street get a hell of a stressful time compared to freewheels or even track hubs at the track. (Campy track hubs notoriously had street problems anyway - again no experience of it myself.)

Anyway... Radial laced hubs are under a lot more sress than cross laced ones so, if you are going to go for it, it would seem that recomendations would be for a cross/cross lacing as opposed to the cross/radial set-up which the wheels come with as standard.

Unless you know what you are doing before embarking on the build get a few quotes from some reputable wheel builders - say Paul Hewitt in Leeds, (monty?) at Condor, Harry Rowland... whoever and if one of them says I'll do it and the other two say no f'in way, sell the phil and get a custom drill; if a rear shamal is that big a deal it has got to be worth the extra £50 right?

Man, I love a long winded answer.

Whilst a £200 blowie is tempting, I think I'll have to let the opportunity pass, though if you're commanding that sort of money pj (pj), you must be pretty hot.

I would, however, consider a trade for a similar value rear wheel or pair, only clinchers mind (gotta get off those tubs).

Hi there,
I have a rear Aerospoke track wheel that just doesn't suit my bike. It has been taken for a spin around the block in the dry and then been subjected to some serious looking at, but nothing more. It is a clincher, 700c, black or what I think they call 'nude carbon'. Boxed with the track bolts. One just sold on ebay for £233.

Asking for £215. I can throw in a 15t DA cog in good nick if you want it as well.

I live in sunny Dalston so if you want to come and have a look, drop me a line. I can post a photo but I figured everyone knows what they look like. If you do want one, I can sort it out but not tonight as I'm off out.

Thanks,
David

Hi Tombo, I'm afraid it's gone to a good home on peter and brian's shiny new road build.

P&B I've got back to you.

Mdizzle, Yellow and deep you say, not shallow and silver, well maybe I can strip it. I'm interested. I'll PM you.

D

Does anyone want to swap a 700c track rear wheel with a clincher rim for my Campag Zonda 16R clincher ('98 I think)? It has an 8spd cassette on it and I have a split cassette as well so you could SS it with some spacers. There are a few marks in it, the biggest is the small dent which you can see on the drive side at a little past 12 o'clock. It's not in amazing condition but it is fine and runs true. With a 39mm cross section they are pretty bomb proof. I'm sure I've got a QR around somewhere but it isn't a record one. I live in Dalston so you're welcome to come and have a look. I polished up the front one and got it to an almost mirror finish so (with a bit of elbow grease and a pot of brasso) if you want to build up a blingy TT bike it'd suit. If you have something nice I could chuck in a few quid as well. Cheers, Dave

http://www.londonfgss.com/search.php?searchid=636411

^ I aksed this question a while back.

The normal way to track stand is with your leading foot forward (as in the foot you prefer to skid with, normally the dominant side of your body) with the wheel tilted to whichever side that is.

ie for me, I trackstand with my right foot forward, with my front wheel tilted to the right. therefore the wheel never comes close to the leading pedal.

I don't think I've ever met someone who does it your way, with the wheel crossing the leading foot... surely you'd find it easier... your'e essentially doing it switch at the moment, you goofy fool!

Goofy fool though I am, I think all the BMX riders I know would consider right foot back, left foot forward regular. It's the back foot that does the work for hopping and stuff. When you skate regular you put your left foot at the front. And to trackstand you want the bike to be rolling up the camber of the road, ergo, in the UK, turning to the right. It matters not I suppose, so long as it isn't called mungo

"Put the other foot forward" is, for me, a lot easier said than done and turning the opposite way is just as bad. It is like trying to learn to skate switch when, as a totally fine skater you had to re-learn how to ollie and looked like an idiot who could barely make it up a curb.

I realised that those were the most obvious solutions but I just thought there might be another trick (other than losing limbs). It is just so frustrating I can trackstand for as long as I want on my everyday bike but have no confidence on my good bike. God damn you track geometry!

I've been riding fixed for about 4 years or so, so I'm pretty into my habits - left foot forward, turn right. I just recently started to ride on the road with a much tighter bike than I have done previously and it has put my off my stride a bit. Riding, what is in my head, switch, is gonna take some getting used to.

I put my bag on the opposite shoulder to most everyone else too. Stupid brain.

So what do you do about toe overlap on the road?

Riding about is fine, but track standing is devilishly difficult when you can only turn so much. Do you just have to learn to turn the opposite way, or switch which foot goes at the front or is there some other unobvious knack?

Cheers all...

[quote=tomasito;258831]Anybody know a place in london that sells the Brooks bar grips made from leather washers?

I've seen em in London Fields shop, Mosquito and I'm pretty sure Condor. They are pretty pretty big in the hand compared to normal grips (like AME or ODI) and super expensive. Oh and don't get that bike wet.

To break in a brooks saddle you just have to keep proofiding it (like once a week at first) and ride it. I would say they are more suited to a touring or old fashioned road race position, ie, quite upright. The lower your position the thinner the saddle should be, goes the logic. Regals are pretty wide but a few roadie pros still use them (like Tom Boonen) so some must find them the most comfortable - they ain't the litest. And they might not suit you of course. Oh and SJS cycles are still selling Brooks at £35 not the new price of £50, I'm sure they'll update soon though.

Saddles are totally horses for courses. One man's meat is another's poison. Personally I'm all about the cut-out. Fizik say they are bad for you. Toupe's are, in my opinion, awesome, Turbo's awful. I'm sure the popularity of the turbo would suggest others disagree. Hippy's right. They don't have to be level but it is a good starting point. Brooks generally ride a bit better a bit nose up, Rolls a bit nose down.
Your weight should be on your sit bones and fairly little elsewhere, it sometimes helps to sit a bit further back than one might naturally do. That plumb bob/patella/spindle equation will do a lot for pain elsewhere, but I imagine, little for saddle discomfort. Also more than a 8-10inch drop from saddle to bars is from a medical standpoint getting into danger territory if you fancy riding very far and keeping your girlfriend. This is slightly different on TT style scenarios where pressure on the pedals takes it off the saddle.
The nose down a bit may offer some relief but if I remember rightly fiziks are pretty flat and smooth which means one will be prone to sliding forward which is no good for efficiency, comfort, or the @rse of your shorts.
If the flites fit, stick with them, try your mate's saddles and ask if your shop has lenders, some more race oriented shops will have a box full of try outable seats. A seatpost which is infinitely adjustable (as opposed to ones with a toothed gripping head) is a must IMHO and good shorts make a world of difference as well. Sorry for such a long winded answer.

The thread seems fine. The nuts that are on there came off fine and my bodge replacements span on fine it is just that they don't have a knurled gripping surface for the fork ends. I must have just been unlucky with the other's (like trying loads of Italians when you need British or whatever.)

It seems from a further perusal of the forum others have had joy at Condor so I'll try them in the week.

I'll get a new lock ring while I'm at it. I think the one that's on there is made of blu-tac sprayed silver.

Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how I get on.

DR

Is the DA thread the same as the formula's? If it is that's a blessing.

I've tried the nuts off my other bikes and bought a few different brands of track nuts (relative cheapies admittedly) but they don't fit. It is not the size of nut but the thread which is proving to be the problem. I bought the wheel into Mosquito and they didn't have anything that'd go on.

It comes as no surprise that the locknuts on my formula hubs have cracked into about 4 pieces. Also the tracknuts have seized becoming essentially nuts.

What has surprised me is that the seem to have some funny thread and none of the bike shops I have tried (nor Clerkenwell screws) have anything that fits.

I bodged them so they're rideable with two chain tensioners to minimise slipping but it ain't ideal.

Has anyone else had the same problem and solved it.

Thanks

DR