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Even with a BB lockring it could unscrew if you do a 'fixie skid'. There is nothing, apart from the bolt-on systems, that can substitute a proper fixed hub with reverse threaded lockring.

This has been discussed soooo much recently...

Puppies don't die unless it's worthy...
Don't go thinking it's that easy to be a puppy killa, you gotta earn that shit, ya hear?!

If it's not a prestigious marque then convert away, puppy free.

With ATAC's you can still pop out if the cleat is worn down. My cleats are like a smeared 2p coin on the bottom of my shoes. They still work but I pop out occasionally.

The whole clipless/clip debate is only down to practicality in my opinion. Yea, if you're cycling for performance and racing/training then clipless is practical as you can get out of the pedals easier* and you have a strong power transfer.
If you're just commuting**, going to the pub, shop, whatever, in other words just riding your bike, then clipless or even flats are the most sensible thing as you don't have to carry around spare shoes or walk around in stiff clickity-clackity cycling shoes.
When I was messengering I switched back and forth depending on the season. Summer was nice and warm and not much work to go around so you spend a lot of time hangin out off your bike, that's when the clips and straps come out. Winter is wet, cold and really busy. Clipless it is then, all because it suits the situation...

*easier than super tight leather straps and a cleat securing you to the pedal.
**unless you have to change shoes once you arrive anyways.

It was all a ploy...

wow mike cheers for the offer, im glad that you will be signing off on the bikes personaly

this is a good idea, some one should do it

I'd be more than happy to do so only I'll be in the states...

Didn't I tell you, there's a race to come visit your sweet ass!

At the messenger track days there was a mechanic on site checking every bike before you can sign in. This is a really good idea as a lot of people don't realize that their stem/bars may not be as tight as they should be or their tires aren't at proper pressure etc. etc.

Thanks, mine is definately a road one then.
I will remove the lockring/cog and stick a freewheel on until i can afford a new wheel.
Cheers.

So if you're going to ride with a freewheel then you use brakes right? A 'suicide' hub is perfectly OK with brakes. I commute 30mi a day with a front brake and without a lockring...

My biggest concern here is that Paul sold a fixed wheel without saying that it was a converted road hub. If someone not knowing went careening around town on it without using hand brakes it could end disasterously. Yea, you could say it was the muppets fault for not knowing what to look for and that he wasn't made to buy it. I would call it bad customer service and irresponsibility on Paul's part. Especially within such a niche, 'community' market!

The urge to comment somthing about 'the race to London' is just too strong.

But I can resist as I'm just so over it!

I gotta say I've never heard it until now. I must thank/loathe you!

My gradeschool progress reports always said "does not play well with others"...

moi?

Yea, me to.

Funny tags this thread has.

can I join 1% officially then? I've been sporting your shirt and making you guys look good for ages.

Hon, I initiated you ages ago. You just didn't know...

'Suicide hub' is a term referring to a fixed cog screwed onto a hub meant to take a freewheel, being a single bmx style freewheel or a 5, 6, 7,sometimes 8 speed freewheel block. Because there are no stepped, reverse threaded threads for a track lockring you can use an old style bottom bracket lockring to help secure the cog from unthreading. This works on the same principle as a threaded headset and the adjustable cup of an old style BB staying together. Called suicide because of the likely-hood of it coming undone at the worst possible moment.

Dead giveaways for a built up suicide hub are quick releases, narrow spacing between the flanges (edit - if single sided), severely offcentered spacing of hub/rim/dropouts-ends, large diameter lockring or no lockring.

Any locking ring/nut should hold at least 3 threads. This is the minimum amount that is deemed 'secure' by engineering standards. (so I've been told...) A locking ring screwing on only 3/4 of a turn is not engaging enough thread to have a strong hold and will probably bust what thread it is holding off the hub being road (suicide) or track. Again, at the worst possible moment.

Yeesss...

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGs5z8CaKX0"]YouTube
- Broadcast Yourself.[/ame]

and have matching rims now it seems

Not if you win the race to London, big boy...

(I'm so over this...)

Time atacs. Bar none.

I want smoother faster games as well. Only thing is, my Sat. mornings are taken up by herne hill at the moment. And that wastes me for the rest of the day!

I have one more rim available...

Jack,
tip: Mike likes those latex gloves too!

Only yours, dear.

First, the BB is probably Italian threaded, so one cup will be threaded the wrong (right) way.. have you taken this into account?

Chemicals: Try soaking in some tough penetrating oil (plusgas etc.) rather than WD-40.

Mechanical: After soaking as above, tap the BB shell with a hammer etc. Fairly lightly, the goal is to work the penetrant further into the threads, and break the corrosion seal through vibration (not brute-force)

Leverage: Clamp the removal tool on somehow, so it won't slip and ruin your chances. Then either use a big bit o' scaff-pole as a 'cheater bar', or clamp the tool in a vice and user the frame as a lever.

All good advice. Don't try heat, it does nothing but destruction.

Clamping the BB tool on is the best way. As long as you can get one cup off then you can use a bolt and two large washers with nuts all secured through the BB shell and stubborn cup.

And if it's Italian BB then it's the fixed cup which goes the wrong (right) way, lefty loosey

As happy as I am that all of you are racing to London to see lil'ol me, I'm not liking where this is going!

Hi Mike! Haven't seen you in ages! You've certainly got a good memory.

Not good, selective!

This is not a good sign IMHO. Surely it indicates that a lot of the strength came from the highly pressurised tyre and not the rim and spokes?

That's common on tubs as the tyre will compress the rim, ever so slightly making the spokes slacker. Higher the pressure, slacker the spokes. A clincher tyre is constantly wanting to 'pop off' the rim being that it's held on by the 'hooked' rim and the bead on the tyre. Not affecting the spokes.

I built Roxy's 3 lead 3 trail laced at the crosses and it's held up fine only needing a true after being mishandled in airports and polo. I also built a wheel for Rakan with a twist in the outside spokes of each group. Again with crosses and the single twist. I'm actually amazed at how true that wheel is after seeing it this past sunday!

I'm fairly sure I laced the second and last crossings as Alex said, the first one would be right on the hub. Maybe Roxy or Rakan/Zoe could post a pic?

I also remember when Alex was building his wheel mentioning the tension problem so when I built one I started with tension and then trued the wheel by loosening the spokes. Dunno if that's what helped or not though.