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I have a feeling the studs are metal (it's a new build flat).

hmm i suspect they are then

The ceiling is 4 metres high!

even better, just borrow a ladder. or get some of these. aces.

reckon theres an electrician/builder on the forum with a stud finder to help you out. just know where your mains elex/gas/water shut off are before you go popping holes all over.

by the way bill, i have a box of those fixings i mentioned. if you want a few i'll happily post some to ya, save you buying some if you want to wait till bank holiday post fininshes.

i used to use wd40 on my mtb grips before some clever type invented lock-on grips. aways worked for me, and more likely to have wd lying around than hairspray. (in my house anyway, dunno about you bunch of pooftahs).

thinking about it more, wy dont you hang from the ceilng? defo timber used up there, screw in hooks for the front wheels work a treat and keep the wall space free for a shoe rack...

find the stud and fix to that

hello.

this ^^^^is the answer you are looking for i think. no more than 400mm to the left or right of that hole you just filled will be a splendid bit of wood which will take the weight. combine it with another stud and it'll be dandy. studs should be at 400mm centres though sometimes corners are cut.

or like dov says, a big peice of wood with the hanging device to it, but just make sure the big piece of wood is screwed to the stud.

im hoping the studs are timber not that shitty metal stuff...

personally i only ever use these

sometimes i replace the standard screw with a longer one if the material is thick. put in a few, dont scrimp.

the most iportant factor is keeping the weight as close to the wall as poss and in a downward fashion. if the weight is pulling outward from the wall the risk of the anchor pulling is higher. i have used three of the above anchors on a bit of wood and hung off it and it stayed. quite impressive strength if you use them right...

yep, you;ll ruin the hub which may or may not be an issue for you. you'll never be able to change the sprocket, and potentially any spokes which break, which, if you get into riding more you'll probably want to do. if your mate fucks it up you're screwed.

someone on here will have a lever, it'll be cheap or maybe borrow one if you know anyone. just have two less take out coffees and beers at the pub this week and you'll have the cash.

by the way, if you are determined to go down this route, the use of a standard household magnet will help you out in determining the metal of your hub. aluminium alloys dont have iron in them so magnets dont stick, steel does so magnets will stick.

lever here for a ten

and again here with caliper

dirt harry here 8 quid

get some brakes.

yes to this so many times over...

doesnt sound suspect to me. just rotten luck like i said.

please feel free to ignore me about the outboard bb thing. to make that change would require new crankset aswell as bb so not always a viable option as it costs £'s. i simply have a rather strong dislike for square taper and have had for years. but they serve millions of people just fine every day in this country and in their thousands on this forum so im defo in the minority.

just buy a new bb. when you or a shop take it out it should the axle length on it and you can measure the shell width easy enough so the whole thing should be cheap and last you a long time. i imagine the cranks should be fine but take them to a shop and get a mechanic to cast teir eye over them, i'd reccomend brixton cycles but there are plenty other good ones to choose from depending on your location.

good luck. and good luck getting it sorted over the bank hloiday..... thats gonna suck.

i think you'll find argos will only replace the whole steerer not just add a bit on.

that right there is a square taper fail. id say you're fortunate to still have your bollocks intact.

but no, its not that common especially on the road. do you know the history of the bb? are you really fucking heavy? do tricks and that? my advice is to chalk that one off to bad luck combined with really good luck. i doubt it'll ever happen to you again in your life if its never happened before. outboard bb ftw.

conversions are best. especially 80's/ 90's ones. good geometry, nice to ride all day, if you're lucky you even get mudguard mounts. just fuck off the threaded headset and all's dandy.

these three on the first page of g images

Classifieds

[]Filter classifieds out of the searches by default UNLESS you've selected to see everything in your UserCP.
[]Make it so that ALL classifieds must have a prefix, it won't be possible to create a thread in the classifieds forum without one.
[]Make the quick searches more prominent, but also give a "Create New For Sale Listing" on the For Sale search to make that more obvious.
[]Massively simplify the rules, put them in one place, encourage use of PayPal (non-Gift) if not meeting face-to-face.

What I'm pondering over:

[*]A very basic review system for purchases, though this is a major piece of work so would not be done this year.

Could you set automatic pms / emails to people after a week or two to ask if they have sold what was in the thread and a button in the email to close it?

After 4 or 5 reminders it could automatically close it as well.

Re Classifieds
why not just add an extra prefix ? "For Sale" "Wanted" etc prefixes, but add a Geared / FGSS / OT prefix

all of the above get my vote.

leave as is or **get rid **completely, no rep/rating system.

personally i didnt even know that this was still in use. i thought it got scrapped over a year ago? so clearly it doesnt bother me as is, however i have one concern should it be more usable and more prominent....

i kind of see the forum as having a few distinct layers of users.

the top being the post heavy users, not necessarily ones who have been here since early doors. you know, the ones who are always online, popping up in loads of threads, sometimes being useful, sometimes being funny sometimes being a pain. all good.

middle layer is a massive body of people who are moderate all the way to rare posters, not limited to certain threads or bike styles. again, sometimes usful, sometimes funny and sometimes a pain. all good.

bottom layer is the layer of people who are more of a pain the funny or usefull in whatever way that is. not so good.

with a streamlined rep system i think youd end up with this middle layer being largely ignored for rep because we arent so prolific as the either other group. a massive group of users with knowledge, good buying/selling skills, funny/interesting views etc etc would be pretty much ignored because they arent dicks (the bottom layer - bad sellers/trolls/abusive folks etc), and they arent the top dogs (the top layer - you know who i mean).

i put myself in this middle category. i personally dont care about not getting rep, but what i would care about is folks ignoring my classifieds, or my tech advice/questions or whatever else due to not having loads of rep points if people start filtering posts via the rep points system..

my 2 cents.

time and money for girls covered in honey

cos i come sweeter than jeru and damja an amature.

if you think me an asshole....feel free to let me know.

and......

...go

laugh at tossers

that is all.

ha. ha.

i dont do this ^^^^. thumb goes on before sandpaper. then, after sanding, the area is easily found because its right next to where i'm holding it and its clearly been sanded. each to their own i guess. never had a problem with my method, spose i should be gracious and accept other peoples ways.

do you keep a pen in your repair kit out on rides?

yes to sheldon but often i find his site confusing. the above pics dont do enough explaining as the dont show the complete set up in enough detail to make sense to folks who have never seen the set ups in bits.

so am i right in thinking that you can insert any 1 inch fork in the steerer tube, as long as the stem is long enough to protrude through the top enough to attach a 1 inch threadless ahead system thats if they make such a thing!! and also that you can then use a 1 inch threadless headset within this combination

first things first. you gotta get the names of bits right or it makes things very confusing,

the steerer tube is the long tube on your forks that runs up inside your frames head tube. it is the steerer tube which protudes and not the stem.

if your forks have thread, you need a threaded headset and quill stem (or quill to ahead STEM adapter - the adapter doesnt change the headset, merely the type of stem you use).. if the forks have no thread on the steerer, you need a threadless or aheadset (same thing) set up.

if your bike uses 1 inch system, either 1inch threaded or 1 inch threadless will work. BUT, you cannot use half and half of the two headset systems. they are not compatible with each other.*

i think before you go spending more money it would be usefull for you to get a better understanding f these systmes.

i reccommend going toyour local book store and finding a bike maintainance book and exploring it more. or going to drinks if you live in london and looking at bikes and asking questions. or if the open tool box sessions still run, pop along to one and get a hands on education - the best type.

*this isnt totally true, but for this thread, its true enough.

no worries.

if you do go down the new forks and ahead set up route, the thing to bear in mind is the steerer length. it will have to be about 50mm (longer if poss - more adjustment) longer than the steerer on your current threaded fork. the reason for this is that the stem clamps straight to the steerer outside, not wedging iside like the quill method, so you need enough exposed to make it work.

maybe call up bob jackson and ask if they've started yet, and if not, investigate the cost of them replacing the steerer with a threadless one before they spray. might work out better in the long run and be cheaper and more authentic than paying for the paintwork only to bin off the forks and buy more....

only if you buy a 1 inch threadless heaset and stem too mind...

"Converting" to threadless doesn't solve any of the inherent problems of threaded headsets, it just add's another piece to the puzzle, and another thing to go wrong/come loose, doesn't really make sense ey?

not quite sure what you mean, but...

a real conversion (not as outlined by the op) does actually remove all of the inherent problems of threaded headsets as i see them.

• ugliness (some stems are nice, but for me, the overall look is not good).

• headset constantly coming loose

• problems of sourcing replacement parts

• problems of trying different heights/lengths of stems (most qhill stems are single bolt and require de-taping and re-taping bars to change stems. most ahead stems have a removable face plate to make things easier).

• poor seals and shitty bearing cages

• the need to own massive flat spanners in varying sizes for different manufacturers.

• weird sizes on some euro frames (how many threads about "my 1 inch quill stem wont fit my 1 inch fork"... "get some emery cloth and make it narrower")

• seized threads

to my mind, threaded headsets are outdated and rubbish compared to ahead.

Can I buy a black 1" threadless headset and a quill to ahead adapter and will this prevent my forks from falling out

with your current frame/fork set up, this combo is set to fail

or do I need to keep with a 1" threaded headset?

with your current frame/ fork, yes, just find a black one.

would it be possible to remove the threading on the folks

possible, yes. but totally unadvisable. do not try this.

you can get a new steerer brazed in place (old one out, new one in) but it costs (mine was 50 notes), it takes a while (quoted two weeks here in bristol at argos cycles) and will damage paint work on the top of your forks (black rattle can sorted mine)..

and totally convert then to threadless with the quill to ahead adapter

NO

a quill to ahead adapter slides in the top of a threaded fork and the stem bolts to it. the adapter DOES NOT HOLD THE FORK IN THE FRAME.. the threads on the headset do this job.

with a threadless/ahead system, it is the job of the stem (which clamps onto the fork tube - steerer) to hold the fork in the frame, making it not fall out.

thanks hope i aint confused anyone

sheesh.

so as far as im concerned, your options look like this

1. buy a new black threaded headset and keep everything else as is with quill stem.
   
2. buy a new black threaded headset and quill to ahead adapter and have a better range of stems to choose from in terms of length/rise.
   
3. get a new, unthreaded, long steerer brazed in (£), buy a new threadless/ahead set in black (more £) and a new stem (£).
   
4. clean and service your current headset, maybe even replace the bearings (cheapness x satisfaction) and live with the colour.
   
   
   
   

in order of preference, i'd say 4, 2, 1 then 3.

hope this helps.

+1.

whooooop.