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This place is run by a female mechanic:
Bicycle Workshop - 27 All Saints Rd, Notting Hill, W11 1HE
020 7229 4850, info@bicycleworkshop.co.uk
www.bicycleworkshop.co.uk/Nhatt - Im with Gavin on this.. quite possibly one of the best mechanic in london.. i just cant remember her name
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As for the W Ind freewheel.. maybe a bit of an overkill if you are commuting?
Seeing as the transmission of a bike is a consumable.. just like tyres and tubes.. how about just getting a shimano fw?The chances are, your chain and freewheel will wear before you get your moneys worth with the W Ind. Where as the shimano ones cost around £15
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I personally hate Bepanthen,
Hemorrhoid cream is very recommended by a few people I knowWill is still embarrassed when it comes to buying it though.
I was using bepanthen on my arm piece by Fingers... is extremely thick, had to use a fair amount to get a good coverage.Highly Recommend this guy by the way.
http://www.myspace.com/fingersdead
Works at a few places i think, as well as out of his flat in Clapton.He did my Rat

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The guy i was sharing my workshop with was building frames before he was in an accident. i think he will be starting up again once he has got full movement of his shoulder back.
There will be a website then as well.
I am currently riding around one of his builds and i love it.
Can pass on details if you want ot send me a pm. will be a while before he is building again though.
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sounds like you need to tighten your star-spangled nut. be sure to tighten the stem bolts first, then the star-fangled nut afterwards.
try using the search function.
Are you sure about that? That would result in pulling the star nut upwards / stripping the thread / damaging the top cap.
Loosen the stem bolts, tighten top cap until it just starts to nip into place. Tighten the stem, if there is still play, repeat the first few steps.
To check play, turn the bars 90deg and push forward and back.. maybe putting a few fingers around the lower race so you can feel any play.
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If you are east, pop it to my workshop at the weekend and ill be happy to go through it with you.
It is all pretty simple inside there. May just be a case of re greasing the contacts and making sure the cones are tight enough... but obviously not too tight.
The brake arm should be attached to the chain stay with a little p clip, if this isn't there then there is nothing limiting the brake so it can bind up pretty easily.
All coaster hubs work in the same way, its just that some are more reliable than others.
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Im doing my best not to get caught up in all of this... while now being pretty hypocritical by posting this..
however, there are quite a few of us on here that know Chris and Georgie personally, very well actually. Some of us may know what happened, some of us don't want to know. But whatever it was, it has happened. Lets just leave it as that. The forum isn't the place for it.
ta
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The problem with going to a steel shop is the likelihood of them having correct drop out aligning tools..
What you pay for at a bike shop is not only the brazing, but also the frame finishing afterwards.. aligning the ends, checking the frame is true, if not... making it true..
Some prep can go into it as well.. making sure the bottom bracket height isn't going to be too far from original.. Cutting the chain stays shorter to make the clearances better suited (or making the clearance worse? basically making them tighter) as well as filing the track ends to make a good fit.
It is quite a job, i have done about 5-6 sets now.

Come to this amazing dance party, dance off.
Last one to drop wins. £3 entry. As the poster says, prizes for winners.
*No A**C here.