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5-6mm is way to high .. I guess I don't need to tell you but it should be about 1-2mm. The CX70 isn't going to sort that issue for you I'm afraid because it will mount roughly in the same place. You need to get the mech lower .. or go up slightly on your tooth count.

Another couple of ideas ..

1 - take a round file to the bottom of the braze on and remove a small amount of metal .. go slow and trial fit mech between files. I don't think this will get you 3mm!
2 - file some material off the mech mount bolt only where it goes through the braze on of the frame so it can sit lower. You'll have to measure carefully the position and reduce the dia all around so as it tightens it doesn't move back up. Again I don't think it will get you 3mm but a combination of the two may be enough?
3 - not sure if this will work .. but Sram have two mounting points in the front mech so the 'upper' point may allow the mech to drop low enough. If you can find a lender mech before you buy it would be best

Lol .. Just thinking of the shift .. I know how you're always in the big ring though ;)

@GiantDale .. I haven't ever used the Cannondale's rings, but I have used the CT2's and they are very quiet, stiff and shift well. I don't know the numbers for weight ..

Looking good again :) I particularly like the aesthetics of the new bars on the build.

.. Just one thing (and maybe it's the pic) but the front mech looks a bit high?

What BMMF said .. You really don't need anything special. i'm using a Red on one bike and Dura Ace on another bike both with 48. If you haven't already tried it .. do so! I'm assuming you'll have moved the mech lower on the seat tube so that the cage is spaced the correct distance from the outer ring and adjusted your cabling to suit.

As for the CX 70 mech .. It will work with your down tube shifters as your front shift, if I remember correctly from running them shifters myself in the past, will be a friction shift? Just make sure if you go that route you get the correct pull for your bike.

Or your friend used gear cable outers for brakes which are useless in compression ..

If you don't want to change the handling you need to consider axle to crown length and rake .. a change to either of these will alter the handling. Saying that, a small deviation you probably won't notice ..

Both rake and axle to crown of your existing fork you can measure easily or .. BMW site says fork rake 34mm but no axle to crown measurement

I wonder if the forks are original because the frame has eyelets on the rear forks? Overall for me the Fuji is a nice build with some good details like the bottle cage bolts picking up on the gold in the decals .. no porn but nicely done

can't see it being used any time soon

Just picking up on this point though (and you may disagree) but generally if I build something I'm proud of, the first thing I do is take pics before riding ..

Got a 120mm NOS Modolo stem here if it's of interest?

http://www.lfgss.com/thread88283.html

Got the brakes thank you .. and have a bump :)

I think it depends on magnet / maybe how it was stored? .. I had one that wouldn't trigger the Garmin sensors unless it was practically touching but the next one I attached from another supplier is probably 5mm away, similar to your set up. They where both supposed to be the same magnet material.

If you can push the big 53 / 52 gears then I've got no quibble. But for me 48 is plenty big enough on the open road and also means I'm generally in the middle of the cassette giving a nice chain line .. 48 - 12 at 90rpm is about 28mph ..

Thank you .. Glad it's suitable :)

Don't know if this is suitable ? Msg me if its of interest .. £15 including post & Paypal ..

http://www.lfgss.com/album.php?albumid=2282&pictureid=14751

Just an opinion on the stem without seeing it fitted, based on one of my pet whines when I see renaissance bikes let down by oversize components ..

Anyway, If enough post goes in to the tube for it to be safe and not damage the frame, cut the post .. cheaper and also will save you some weight for free!

do it. I like those forks. but get a 3t post to match the stem. thomson is just too easy/hipster.

I'd suggest 3T is too easy .. it is the default for any road bike at the moment. I'm not having a pop at 3T as the components I've had experience of are good stuff .. heck, I own a Doric ltd post!

But, IMHO for the Alan I'd ship the 3T stem back, it's too bulky for the frame tubes .. I'm guessing it's possibly larger diameter then the top tube?

Aesthetically a Thomson stem is relatively slimline and would suit the tube size better, and I'm a firm anti Thomson person .. It's overpriced for hipsters ..

A 10 speed Shimano MTB mech is not compatible with anything other than a 10 speed Shimano MTB shifter .. .. different cable pulls! Good old Shimano :)

You can however, mix SRAM 9 speed derailleurs with Dynasys shifters MTB systems .. the pull ratio is the same .. eg.

Dynasys shifter + sram 9v rd = ok
Sram 9v shifter + dynasys rd = ok

But you could use a 9 speed MTB rear mech which will work fine with a 10 speed road STI as they have the same cable pull.

Edit .. Too Slow!

I like that Look a lot. But now I see it; whatsup with the rear clearance..?

Slamming the wheel is not the most aerodynamic position .. When a wheelset turns turbulence is created and a greater distance would allow more room for this to pass, resulting in lesser stalled air streams which create drag on the wheel. If I remember correctly Look did a study and published to providing an optimum distance.

On the team GB forks the wider blades are a: to direct air as identifed and b: to improve flow as per the above reason

Sorry .. That's all out of context for the thread !

I have a 56cm top tube centre to centre 17cm head tube Scott ready built minus wheels (as I'm using them on another bike) that I'm considering moving along, but it's polished finish.

pics here http://www.lfgss.com/album.php?albumid=2542

msg me if it takes your fancy?

Other then the obvious change in gearing and as long as you lower your mech slightly to maintain the required gap with the smaller chainring everything will be fine. You may even notice a slightly quicker front change with 49 / 36. A standard road front mech capacity is generally quoted as 16T, but the less teeth difference the less the chain has to 'climb' the ring to make the change. I use 48 / 36 on one bike and 48 / 38 on another bike. Shimano cross crank set ups are standard 46 / 36 ..

As for the rings .. Take your pick. The Stronglight ones are made by TA. Personally I prefer TA or Stronglight CT2. For Stronglight CT2 try http://www.xxcycle.com/

There's the Goldtec and Royce hubs which both IMHO are a match for the King

Also .. I'm biased but Strada are good to deal with. I had a set of A23's built and did a small write up here if your interested http://www.lfgss.com/post3095488-658.html

.. it's french chalk :)

Thanks for the offer of the Modolo Vince. I'm going to pass at the moment though. As I said I'm in no rush, so a little further down the line I'll see what's about and maybe have a few quid more to send as we'll be out of Christmas!

I'm half hoping some 23mm wide's are going to come on to the market, but I think it's all about full carbon nowadays

The obvious answer is HED Jets .. 23 wide, Al brake and carbon fairing ..

Good enough for Tony Martin to win the final time trial of the 2011 TdF in Grenoble on a HED Jet 6 clincher on the front (clincher) and a HED Stinger Disc (tubular)

KMC X10 SL is the one Dammit recommended .. or the X 11 SL which is slightly lighter as it is slightly narrower but is really an 11speed chain.

Best price I've found for X10SL is Merlin Cycles or Total Cycling EBay outlet

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMC-X10SL-10-Speed-Chain-Silver-RRP-59-99-/130815596203?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item1e753796ab

Sram 10 speed mountain and road Exact Actuation cable pull is the same so it should work .. Incidentally I've got a feeling the Mount Washington hill climb 2010 was won on a Cervelo using XX and a mountain cassette to give a sub 1:1 gear.