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http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/jtek-doublecontrol-s-prod19041/

Jtek cable splitter is another option

• 1 on the figure 8 .. I picked up this way of wrapping watching a video of a pro mechanic preparing a tour bike. think it was a lizard skins clip on you tube
  

Trivex is used for contact lens because of it's optical properties .. some are still made from Polycarbonate .. just some usless triva !

Fella looking for one 4days ago here ..

http://www.lfgss.com/thread99812.html

Thought someone on here had one? Think it may have been Roberto (sorry if I spelled your name wrong)?

Isn't that a similar colour to Mario's Saeco-Cannondale red train bikes? I'm sure Mario would have used white tape ..

.. badly worded on my part! I meant on a clincher and tubed wheel at low pressure

if you like to go down the tubeless route? it would be a great way to drop some weight and pressure

If you're using heavy clinchers tyres then your weight argument is valid but at the moment a race clincher and tube is still lighter .. Ultremo ZLX weighs 160g + latex tube 80g. The tubeless version weighs 290g + Stans 5g?

As for lower pressure meaning lower rolling resistance, you can run standard clinchers (which are more supple than any tubless tyre I've handled) at lower pressures too and the risk of pinch flats as much it may be valid, in practice on the road, the value isn't nearly what it is in the dirt unless you're slaming potholes and kerbs on a regular basis.

Also changing a flat if it doesn't seal is worse with tubless because of the bead ..

.. scrap that idea! I have had a clearer thinking moment this morning!

BB30 is a 68 shell width so putting the bearings external on a standard BSA shell of 68 means they must be around 86 width. So Rotor must be doing something different with the crank spindle / crank arms and like you say, running anything else a) would not fit due to spindle length b) if it was a hollogram system mess with the chain line and Q factor ..

The way I read the BB is that Rotor have made the 3d+ system with a 30mm crank spindle and then are offering different BB designs to suit each frame thread / push fit design .. In the case of the linked one a BSA thread. Which then jumps me to would this work with another BB30 crank, which would be cheaper and lighter then Rotor if carefully chosen from eBay, as this opens up standard BSA threaded frames to a BB30 crank both for as a 'Tester' road to track or pure road setup? Can't find enough info at the moment though if Rotor have some odd length spindle / fitment etc.

No! I thought the Red ones where the original forks for the frame? It's getting late maybe I'm mixed up?

On a vaguely related subject .. http://www.dulight.fr/product_info.php?cPath=91_42&products_id=1615 .. I've seen these and trying to work out if they'd work on cranks other then the Rotor claim of Rotor only ..

• 1 what Tester said Neodymium Disc Magnet .. bit of epoxy if you've got Ti spindles
  

you cannot have a mismatched tape/saddle situation - how could you ever look at yourself in the mirror again?

Ouch .. Good job I don't own a mirror .. I know, I know .. The Rules!

IMHO it looks better with the original forks in place. I'm somewhat startled by what you found after removing the top cap though! I guess the previous owner must have really torqued that bottom screw ..

I believe it was the Alan and Vitus aluminium lugged carbon tube frames that where the first commercially available frames using carbon composite .. but these mimicked the aluminium frames and where not engineered.

The first commercial monocoque was Kestrel in 1986. What manufacturers like Ferrari bought was engineering knowledge of the material to the bike industry.

The Colnago C35 was a commemorative model created in celebration of Colnago’s 35th anniversary in 1989 with Ferrari. It was one of the first frames to be manufactured using carbon fibre composite. So although by today's standards it may be anti it is a significant frame ..

As for the wheels Aerospoke wheels where 1988 if I recal correctly? Possibly when this was being developed by Colnago and Ferrari. So they may have been inspired!

It was the FSJ50T I was thinking about but now I see the specs again its a bit of a fatty

http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=725

Edit .. The http://www.yoeleobike.com/ site looks quite interesting. Novatec hubs on the first wheel I clicked on. Don't now what the rims are like though

That's a nice weight for a 50mm without breaking the pocket book. Is it the same one Dammit had? He was pretty positive about his if I remember that part of the Six evolution. I also thought one of the Chinese firms were doing a wide rim now also. But I can't remember whom or the weight of it.

Work out the $/gram saving on them over the Extralite streeters .. which is too expensive a skewer for my pocket book too, but an absolute bargain at $150!

Fairwheels recent test of skewers ..

http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/products/12-high-end-skewers-reviewed.html

I rather like the look of that frame in that colour way. I may have to take a look on the site and investigate, although I've no moans about my Pro Carbon ..

No offence but I think you need to consider the individual components instead of the complete wheel set weight in your thoughts. Where i'm coming from is (and forgetting any aero advantage) the concentration of mass furthest from the hub is where you really need to reduce weight to make a fast accelerating wheel before looking at other compnents in the wheel.

Your existing C24 rim weight is widely quoted as 375g which is pretty light for a clincher rim. An Open Pro clincher is quoted 425g and a Zipp 202 tubular is quoted as 295g for comparison. Most of the weight on them Shimano wheels is centred at the hubs. Hypothetically if your wheels had Extralite hubs and CX Rays they'd probably weigh in around 1200g .. based on the weight of a set of Extralite hyperclinch which are built around similar weight Stans rims

I find with set back more comfortable riding in drops over longer distances and for some reason didn't feel as harsh on the buttux as the straight post

There's a test on setback vs inline done here which may explain your observations ..

http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/12/bikes-and-tech/from-the-pages-of-velo-getting-the-most-from-your-post_267560

"In general, when choosing between a straight or setback post (if your frame seat angle doesn’t already dictate which one you must use to achieve your desired position), a setback post will give you more high-frequency vibration damping, while a straight post will give you more flex on big bumps, lower weight, and a more jarring ride on high-frequency small bumps."

the Zipps are solidly made!

Really? They look like a badly made copy of some of the lightweight skewers you are advising against ..

Back on topic .. garage door pic Dammit?! Enough of the teasing we need the money shot ;)

I've always steered well clear of FSA because there "standard" is constantly changing so that's interesting information for me .. I've learnt something new today :) carry on!

Anyone know what bars are on the Pegoretti?

It's 3T with decals removed .. same on stem and post in that pic.