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Ti seatpost in a Ti frame, should I grease?

Use copper or anti seize grease to stop it galling in the frame ..

Ciavete is the ‘proper’ way to go for a Pegoretti .. the only way totally one-off bike

Veloflex carbon too! Very nice purchase :)

Hold up! FSA MegoExo is a different standard to Shimano. There are also different standards in the MegoExo range for different cranks .. Chart here to check what fits

http://www.bikeman.com/images/stories/RepairTechInfo/externalbbfitchart.pdf

Yeah .. I'm pleased for you. I struggle sometimes putting my thoughts into words so sorry if it took a bit of working out to deconstruct when it shouldn't have been.

You got some firecrest 404's then?! Blah .. Do not let us mistake evil for good ;) Seriously though, they look very nice .. for a Zipp!!

^ Interesting view point. For me it has some nice touches of 'flare', like the previously mentioned "handmade in london" although I'm wondering if that is parody of a well know Italian craftsman? .. I guess some people place more value on form.

spring is out .. what about all the pivots? are all 3 moving freely? also now the spring is out you should be able to see the main pivot allen key socket on the front. There is another allen key set screw on the underside of the "3rd" arm I think, if you remove that. You can a) Use an allen key in the front and spanner on the nut to remove the nut which will allow you access to replace the spring and b) make any adjustment to the tightness of the "3rd" arm pivot which is screwed on to the main pivot allen key.

I've just had another thought too .. I wonder if you've tweaked the centre pivot screw 'jamming' the "3rd" arm. You didn't use a spanner over the centre nut when taking the Allen key recessed fork bolt off, so the centre screw could have turned minutely but enough to 'jam' the "3rd" arm from pivoting freely which would have the same effect as a broken spring. Flip the spring and try all the arms .. they all should fall with gravity.

Ok .. I've got to be honest, and I haven't got the brake in my hand so it's an Internet diagnostics, I don't see the Torx screw coming loose as it's got an Allen key set screw which bites into the thread to stop rotation which in turn has thread lock on it. The fact the arm doesn't return and is loose makes me suspect the spring is broken somewhere - maybe behind the centre nut as you visually can't see a break.

Before you go to far. Have you tried flipping the spring out of it's holder on the right arm (viewed from the back) this will make all arms loose and allow you to wiggle everything, the spring and arms, in all planes to check for play. It may reveal something before dismantle.

That's the Torx screw I'm talking about. Have a look for the Allen key in the arms also as that must come out first if you're going to take it apart, otherwise you'll damage the thread.

In the pic you can see next to the balloon the end of the spring sitting in the "3rd" arm, it's just there where I'm asking if its come out of the slot or broken because you've used a lot of force removing the brake. You should find out before taking the whole thing apart as that nut is easier to remove then the Torx .. It may not appear as though arm is effected by the spring but it is because of the location in that "3rd" arm.

Don't take this the wrong way as I like how this is coming together and think it needs proper pics before it gets ridden in anger .. But my favourite bit if you can call it that is the "handmade in London" on the rear stay :)

Nut? Maybe need a back view of your brake .. I've only worked on a Red brake once and if I remember correct it had a dome headed Torx screw in the back with an Allen key set screw on the underside of the brake arm to stop the screw coming loose.

Just a question though .. The spring hasn't broken? Or is it the wrong sort of loose ..

Fork transition depends on the headset Sumo's going to use - see Baum road bikes if you need some references - for me porn is the right place at the moment ..

And isn't the under the tape one of the reasons people generally comment that DA 7800 had better shifting?

Yes the general feeling is DA7900 mechanical shift is worse due to poor design of the shifter in Shimano's rush to make the cable run under the tape. It is reported worse the tighter the bend of the cable / bar ..

I'm pretty sure it's material grade .. the Presa is the carbon version, the 100 7075 and the RHM 6061 .. pays your money gets a lighter weight

Not egro but Deda Zero 100 ? ..
Drop: 128mm
Reach: 75mm

Hi Che .. no worries.

Good price for a nice set of wheels .. surprised they're still here

^^ It can be done on the 7800 series with Nokon cables as the allow a tight radius to come out of the side and back under the tap - Erik Zabel had his bike set up like that a few years back - I have never seen this done with regular cables before.

^ Fantastic CADD colour way ..

Have a brand new Cream knitted one spare in the drawer if that's of interest? I'd be looking for cost but that would include the postage and Paypal stuff ..

The CX70 I would suggest (having never handled one) has the cage profile modified so it follows the curve of smaller chainrings, as you said. But, I feel sure, for the bottom pull that the rest of the mech is standard Ultegra.

Two main reasons make me say this .. A cross bike will be made with smaller chainring sizes in mind so extending the links doesn't add value only flex and Shimano will want to make the smallest change they can to sell another product without incurring tooling cost.

If you have enough room a band on below could be an option .. I personally don't think you'll have enough room and the band will want to be where the braze on is, seeing as you're only 3mm away from the correct position.

^ I wasn't going to suggest that as I don't want a puppy killed on my conscience :)

^^ Interesting, thanks for the post .. I know Transfil us a compression resistant carbon fibre/Kevlar composite outer on the Flying Snake, but it's a pig to fit as it is really stiff.

In theory, yes you are correct a road gear cable is compression less .. In practice you may not want to try that out, because the pull force in braking means the road gear cable will distort, which is why road brake cable is coiled. I can't comment about BMX cables so I accept your knowledge on them ..