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Left 5600 aren't all that common. Most broke (serious issues with this iteration) so will have been binned* or replaced under warranty (possibly with 5700).

I think I have 3 RH and only 1 LH.

*1x was fairly unheard of back then.

SKS do muguard stay quick release blocks. Meant for the front, incase of accident, but spares are available and allow a mudguard that can be moved back to allow the wheel to come out of the track ends.

Is it one of those third party bolt on adaptors or did the frame come with the option of a bolt on disc tab?

Looks interesting though. Always wanted a Klein.

Has the rear disc tab been added?

Aren't most Kleins rim brake only? Also I'm assuming the 'V' in the name refers to V-brakes.

Sweet

Is it just me or do the images only work if you open them in a new tab? Just got broken image symbols in the thread.

Either way the bike looks cracking.

Where? I thought most places were more than that.

Pleasingly symmetrical photo.

Lovely bike.

Is that the first batch? I thought the first lot were Orange and didn't have an EBB. I've got one (bought second hand). I thought the EBB and baby blue came later.

This is mine (well same model): https://bikemagic.com/bikes/mtb-bikes/singular-swift/

EDIT: turns out the Blue was the first proto. Orange came later but I think the gear specific orange ones were in the first batch with the blue ebbs.
http://singularcycles.blogspot.com/2006/

Ace

Bit late but years back I built the early disc version of that hub radially. Didn't ride it straight away but got it up to tension. A week or so later it split and part of the flange flew across the room. Bugger.

I have a set of cranks (no chainring) that would fit the bill. FCM540 175 Hollowtech 1 (Octalink, not external BB). BB is included (126mm BB-ES25). Reasonably worn but the BB seems ok and they work fine.

I can't fit them as my BB tool won't go over the Octalink spindle.

You can have them for free if you want them. Collection from Wandsworth. Possibly post at cost.

I imagine there will be better offers though.

Unfortunately not. According to this the max they made was only 12mm longer (and most likely hens teeth). Will that be enough?

Looks like a great trip.

Huh, location suggests its a Left hand side of the road bike too. Assumed it was from North America.

Dunno why, probably the garage door.

Surly tallbike.

That one is quite nice. Must be the lightest pacer in that size.

Very odd rear light mount.

Pacer with 650 mounts added apparently.

Got to be the biggest frame size though (189cm HT)

What happened here exactly. That headtube looks far too long for a Surly. I thought they were tiny headtubes for lyfe!

I'd agree with that. I just didn't have time to wait for post from China.

So far so good. I've not used them a great deal as the mini-tour I bought them for was switched to a different route ~(my mates both have cross bikes and wanted to go off road) so I used my MTB and bikepacking kit instead. Only really used them for going to the shops and stuff.

They're pretty solid though. My only concern is the clips are just moulded plastic so you just sort of push them onto the rack. They're secure once pushed on but not sure how long they'll last if taken on and off a lot. The bags have rails though so I think you can just mount Ortleib (or similar) hardware instead.

I think @abr and @Merak bought some too so hopefully can provide some feedback.

Took some pics of the clips:
Boardman pannier bag https://imgur.com/gallery/ryqXmrY

I guess it depends on how much you want to see or if you just want to be seen. For most people riding in cities and towns blinky LEDs will get you seen and street lights are enough to see where you're going. On country lanes you need something mid to high level brightness.

That said lots of cyclists have lights that are far too bright and so many don't seem to understand how to position a front light (IE dipped slightly). Shining huge lights in peoples eyes isn't keeping anyone safe.

RAD

I did this:
https://www.rutc.ac.uk/courses/engineering/175-level-1/429-fabrication-and-welding-level-1.html
Which was great. It was a while ago now though. After level 1 you can move onto more advanced stuff in level 2. Never quite got round to that unfortunately.