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There's a lot of info on the internet about the differences between tubing, but the different Reynolds numbers do not indicate "purity". They are all steel tubing and steel is an alloy. If you make it "purer" you will get iron and there's a reason iron bikes aren't popular.

531 originally stood for the percentages of the alloying elements - something like 5% chromium, 3% molybdenum (or whatever) and 1% something else. Or maybe it's 0.5%, 0.3%, 0.1% - you get the message.

For a long time Reynolds made a variety of 531 tubesets (eg 531c, 531ST) for different applications. They varied tube sizes, butting etc. Then they came up with new alloys and made 653 and 753 which had different properties (ie stronger) once heated. These aren't around now but you can find some really nice frames made from them. My first fixed gear was a converted 653 frame - lovely bike until a cabbie rearranged its geometry for me.

Now most of their tubesets (631, 725, 853 and 953) have this "heat-hardening" stuff. The main difference as you go up the range is that the tubesets are lighter cos they can be made thinner or they are stiffer at the same weight. 953 is the newest - it's almost stainless and very light so it's pretty cool. There's a big price tag for a 953 frame though.

It has an internal wedge which tightens onto the bars fromthe back (ie frame side of the bars). looks nice but concentrates the force on a small part of the bars.

I got some ATAC carbons to replace my SPDs and they are loads better. They feel a lot more secure (on the lowest tension setting) and maybe have a bit more float. Clipping in and out is just as easy. I've also tried some road pedals (Campy Record) and they felt a lot less secure and as though they had less float.

I think that for fixed riding that a two sided pedal is good and lots of float is good (hockey stop skids). For urban riding a mtn bike shoe is a lot easier to walk in. Those factors make me think that a mtn clipless system is the way forward.

scoober I'm after a grey/silver cinelli alter stem.

Momentum, you mentioned that you had one earlier in the thread, is this still available?

Certainly is. It's silver with a black faceplate and it's got the pin up girl sticker too. Think it's about 120mm long. Hovis Brown expressed an interest in it but if he doesn't want it then it's all yours.

No worries dude. Check out the park tools website if you aren't sure about anything - they have good explanations with photos of most bike maintenance work.

I thought Chrome bags have a velcro in liner - could be wrong as I don't own one. Condor have Chrome bags so they might be able to help.

Check the park tools website for a better explanation with pics (look under overhauling hubs or something). The process is generally the same as overhauling hubs with a couple of extra steps.

You will need cone wrenches, bearings and grease to overhaul and a new hollow axle.

Basically both sides of the hub have a cone threaded onto the axles which forms half the bearing surface and a locknut to keep the cone in place. To overhaul a hub you take one side off, remove the axle with the other side left in place and then clean the whole lot and put it back together.

The first step is to put a cone wrench on each locknut (ie one either side of hub) and loosen both until one locknut comes free. Undo this one all the way and take the cone off the same side. Take the axle off with the other cone and locknut left in place. The ebarings will fall out so make sure they all alnd in a good place. If you just want to overhaul the hub then clean everything thoroughly with degreaser, get some new bearings of the right size (they're cheap so you might as well replace them while you've got everything apart) and reassemble with lots of grease. The hard bit is adjusting everything properly - you want it as tight as possibe but without causing drag on the bearings and it can take a little while.

If you want to replace the axle then do the above until you have the axle, cone and locknut out of the hub. Then use two cone wrenches, one on the cone and one on the locknut, and use them to tighten the cone and loosen the locknut until they come free. Take them both off the axle. Then put them on the new axle and reassemble everything as above with lots of grease. Adjust the cones and locknuts so there is about the same amount of axle either side of the hub. Then do one side's cone and locknut up tight and adjust the other side as before. You have to leave a little play as the skewer will compress the bearings a bit when it tightens.

You can pick up replacement axles pretty easily and cheaply from a decent bike shops. Campy axles are a bit more expensive because Campy everything is a bit more expensive.

Was it closed properly? Most would leak through the corners of the flap before the liner leaked, unless the liner is badly damaged. If the liner is damaged then you might have to replace it - they are removable on Chrome bags so you might be able to get a replacement.

You can use a pitlock (or other skewers) with Goldtec hubs.

A cheaper solution (again for use with QR axles) is a trans-x security skewer. Costs a couple of quid and uses a five sided "allen key" to do up. Not nearly as good as a pitlock but still gonna confuse most thieves.

BTW, I have only seen the pitlock locking nuts in 10mm thread - remember that front axles are 9mm.

Also I should emphasise again that switching axles on a hub is pretty easy and would allow the majority of hubs to be used with a pitlock skewer.

scott not scot the flanges look like aluminium to me with carbon centres?

That's right

The only opinion I have is that you shouldn't buy the BMC. It's nice from a design/aesthetic point of view but it's got slack angles and I don't think it would be as good on the track as many other bikes.

I also wouldn't spend that much on a bike as I've got other things that I'd prefer to do (travel etc) rather than spending money on objects. However, if you buy any of these super flashy bikes then I'll be first in line asking to try it out!

Most track hubs have solid axles and so you would have to change the axle to quick release and could then use the pitlock skewer. Changing the axle isn't very hard - just take the hub apart, give it a clean while you're at it and put it back together with a replacement axle. Remember that Campy and other Italian hubs have Italian threaded axles.

I also think that pitlock make security track nuts - try their website to see. You'll want 9mm for the front or 1omm for the back. Check the axle threading carefully.

eeehhhh

Don't buy from Brixton Cycles though. I mail ordered mine and it arrived with a scratch on the flange and the end caps are scratched/dented slightly too. Wankers. They were pretty rude on the phone too :-/

And that's obviously Brixton Cycles fault....

They're probably the most supportive bike shop in London to the cycling community and a lot of people rate them highly. Maybe either they or you were having a bad day when you spoke to them.

Search bikeforums for threads about why it's badly designed and made and long delays in delivery for some of those who've ordered them. Otherwise look at the website and email the people who make them to ask wht it will cost.

The bagaboos are nice and the designs are good, but my experience was that the materials aren't as durable as other manufacturers. I used my bag for about 6 - 9 months and in that time the cordura wore through to the liner on both bottom corners and the main strap started to get fuzzy. I'm not a messenger and look after my stuff so I thought that kind of wear was a bit quick. He might use different materials now.

Then I got a second hand Reload and have used it a lot, but the only wear it shows (apart from the liner wrinkling) is from a crash. I landed on my shoulder and shattered my collarbone - the bag had a slight scuff on the strap. I've got a new smaller bag (the secret London one) and so far it is holding up really well.

The Gromada hubs are really nice and well worth looking into. I think there's quite a long waiting time so it might be worth looking into it now if you are interested. Gromada is a cool guy (I met him in Dublin a while ago) and I'm sure he'd be happy to chat about his frames as well.

This is the one that I was talking about

BTW, it looks like the bike that's on FGG says "recycled by Gromada GROMADA ostro.com.pl" on the downtube. Ostro are the people who make the "pursuit" bike that hippy posted so maybe that's who are making these framnes for Gromada

I must have seen it on bikeforums. I think most of the Gromada frames I've seen have some unusual geometry, especially for a track bike. Given that the hubs he sells are rebranded Macks then I expect that the frames are similarly rebranded.

I'd like to hear why he put Sugino Maxys (or whatever they are) on a supposedly bling bike :).

Mike - kinda busy this week and the weekend so maybe Tuseday next week?

Have any of you seen the Nike bike? It's ridiculous and not something I'd be keen to hear more about.

Gromada is pretty much a one man operation in poland. He's a cool guy and has some nice stuff (check out his hubs, actually made by a guy called Mack). Not sure how long he has been framebuilding, but some of the stuff looks quite nice. I think there's a bike on FGG made by him and ridden by one of the Dublin messengers.

I want a porch like that

You're gonna do 100 mile rides with no bottle cages? I'd suggest at least one set of bottle bosses just to make summer riding bearable. Carrying loads of water on your back sucks after a while.

Where have you heard about Goldtec breaking? I have heard one story of a Goldtec failure (flange cracked) and it was rapidly replaced. A lot of people have used and abused them with no problems.

Campy Recod hubs (high flanges with oval cutouts) are meant to be pretty strong. I think that Campy went right to the limit of taking material out of the flanges of the C-Record hubs and so they're prone to cracking. I think that some of it is down to the quality of the wheelbuild and the way you ride though, as the HF road C-Record hubs were a pretty similar design.

the-smiling-buddha I visited MERCIAN yesterday and ordered a new frame.

Wicked dude! I reckon you're going to have fun with imaginary build ups over the next few months! I guess they'll suggest something like 74 HT and 73-75 ST depending on your height and TT length. A high BB would be useful for clearance on the road and track. I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun on the bike when it's finished.