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Fingers crossed you can extract your project from them.

Looks the business!

Looks roughly as if it will bring your forearms up without affecting any other part of your position.

Nice. Is the rear 130 or 126?

I had a pair of these new in the nineties. Wish I hadn't sold them.

Great work on the cranks. Did you wax them, too?

I agree that higher bars and more reach will probably work better for you. That's a bit of an old-school position of the Weigh. May take a bit of getting used to, though.

Hi. Here's an Ottavio Dazzan. Columbus SL. A quality '80s Italian frameset, with close clearances, a Cinelli bb shell and nice lugs and fork tangs.

54.5cm c-c, 56cm c-t. 56cm seat tube.

It's a long-time forum bike: see here and here. My boys aren't using it and it's too small for me.

Frame, forks and headset £100 posted. I may also have a spare ITA bb.

The frame builder is a mystery. It was one of the frames from Dazzan's sprint school.

56-58 c-c or c-t? Or top tube c-c?

Tu as raison

Very decent price for a Batavus. Too big for me.

So beautiful

Lovely frame. I've also got a Makino with 8630R. Yours is much cleaner.

Be a bit careful about the brake bridge if you go 120mm. I was always told that 126-130mm was no worry, but 120-126mm usually meant a new bridge.

How about these bad boys on the Mercian?

Bar tape looks good.

I reckon the Mercian will be versatile enough for black, silver or deep-section carbon wheels. I put 60/80 carbon wheels on an old 753 track frame and it looked superb.

Lovely

Inspired by Laser

👌
Hot wheels! Need pics, please!
Dibs if you ever sell

🔝
Top drawer

You are quite right of course. I guess the 27.0 531 must be bothering me more than I thought. Gotta get to the bottom of it.

Loving this

1970s Ron Cooper. I'd posted it to the Current Projects chat and miscellany thread. Sticking it here for completeness.

I finished this a couple of weeks ago. Other than a lot of cleaning and polishing, I didn't do a great deal with it, other than swapping out a few non-period parts. It's got a 65mm shell, which is a weird old standard. A couple of washers allow a standard 68mm BB axle to work. Gonna stick a brake on and use it on the road mostly.

I grew up near Ron's shop and really wanted one. I could never afford/ justify the extra cost of a handbuilt frame, so I made do with a second-hand Geoffrey Butler - still a great frame.

The seat cluster and perfectly-curved forks were Ron's signature, as were the occasional cut-out on the lugs. Oh, and he built his frames without a jig, as he believed a jig introduced unnecessary stress.

Amazing pedals, and cranks in great condition. A privilege to see these. I'd be tempted if I hadn't spent all my spare cash on bike bits.

I love the machining marks on those older Campa cranks. Just look at that beautiful fluting.

Thanks. I'm pleased so far.

Gonna try to keep up the red-bike-building momentum. I think the Ribble may be a home for some sheriff stars.

Thanks. Nice to get the nod from a master of clean builds.

It's not NJS. Does the NJS version come in ISO as well as JIS? I do get confused with NJS standards.

I bought the wheels used, and I'm not going to race on them, so gonna keep radial front.

I've got a 27.2 7410 seatpost but, annoyingly, the frame is 27.0. I thought that was impossible: I'd never, ever, heard of a British 531 frame being anything other than 27.2. I've since read that it could be down to how the framebuilder chose to finish the seat cluster. I may speak to Geoff Roberts about whether I can ream it carefully. I do want that clean 7410 finish.

Would this count as full if I swapped the 7400 seatpost for a 7410? Headset is 7410, chainset and hubs, 7600.

Side view

Boom!

Build complete. I still need to glue the tubs before I ride it with these wheels. Also, I no longer have SPD cleats and shoes, so these pedals are just for the look. But they go so well with the rest of the bike.