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I saw a photo of this on here yesterday. Didn't have the bar ends at that point...

Edit: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14092409/ @blue_sleeves

Yeah it is. Either an electronic pedal or you can get a little wooden box that's got a mic in it. Or it could be something like a single midi key

Dibs on those hydraulic brakes if you split! Depending on the price

Hahaha. Not sure if that was autocorrect or me being dense but either way I'm not correcting it.

Was that the Hylex levers/SRAM shifter I posted in the montercross thread? How much did they go for? I'm thinking about attempting to bodge together some Hylex levers and retro MTB hydraulic rim brakes. Just curious what you ended up paying for them.

Edit: dug through my comment history; it was the same set that I posted (although you might have seen it elsewhere), went for £44. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRP-Hylex-hydraulic-brake-levers-SRAM-bar-end-shifter-10-Speed-/273051191900?_trksid=p2141725.m3662.l6403 - probably a bit much for what I had in mind but definitely a bargain for an actual nice bike. Especially since they seem to be one of only two (used) sets ever sold on eBay!

Looking forward to this anyway, I wanted to buy a Salsa Vaya

Relatively understated for Colin McGregor. I was expecting so much worse.

Yeah. I mentioned this elsewhere but I got my 29er hardtail with SRAM GX 1×11 and a RockShox 120mm fork for under £500. Insane value if you stack up discounts.

I had the following:

• bike was £200 off in a sale
  
• a British Cycling sign up bonus
  
• British Cycling discount on the sale price
  
• ~10% cashback on the pre-BC-discount price from Quidco (I think)
  
  

RRP £1000, I spent <£500. Doesn't seem like those discounts add up to enough, maybe I've forgotten something.

Edit: the £1000 Boardman full suspension bike has had some excellent reviews. Calibre Bossnut has as well but when I was looking for a bike (a year or two ago) they were having some significant problems with the frame to do with the rear wheel hitting the seatpost at maximum compression. That problem has almost certainly been solved for the V2 though. You can read more here: http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/calibre-bossnut-potential-problem/ like I said I haven't kept up to date with that thread as I ended up getting that Boardman but worth reading through to see if/how it was resolved.

There's an SJS one for £15 assuming that there's a crown bolt hole thing.

Edit: I have a Cube equivalent (it looks nearly identical actually) from bike-discount as it was a few pennies cheaper

@HatBeard my concern with that is that it'd be no good for walking to Everest Base Camp. Interesting though. I do like the vest format, it's so much better balanced.

@rhb looks good, few pounds cheaper on Wiggle too. Might see if I can try one out somewhere.

Okay, well 100mm stem is not so bad. What do you want the bike to do?

I prefer Bike B's numbers and even if I get Bike A I will replicate those with bar/stem/spacers.

You can't ride a race bike with a baby-sized stem, that's just wrong. So get bike B (the shorter reach).

Also is 5mm difference in wheelbase really going to be perceptible?

@Batt let's see your 26" monstour thing in mudguard mode? It's a great bike :)

I need a new 30-40l rucksack anyway for a trip to Everest Base Camp in October. And I had to bring my bike tools, jacket and helmet for the ride home, a change of clothes for the day and my lunch so I'd like it to be a decent size for that sort of stuff.

It does have chest/waist straps but it just doesn't fit me basically, it was either too loose on the upper body, too tight over the shoulders or too tight on my collarbones. Kept adjusting it but I was just uncomfortable in a different way each time.

Edit: also I'm considering signing up for a mountain marathon later in the year so I'm after something that could take a tent, sleeping bag, couple of spare layers and a bit of food.

Ran into work today with a ~30l rucksack. What is the secret to stopping everything bouncing around and being incredibly annoying? How do you mountain marathon folks do it? I'm guessing I need some sort of lightweight rucksack made out of nice stretchy material that is absolutely covered in compression straps - any recommendations?

@russmeyer @Scilly.Suffolk cheers guys, I had the same thoughts.

There are full-res pictures on the non-mobile version, mobile eBay is just shit apparently. In those you can see that the hubs are SRAM 406 which are cup and cone and not especially expensive. And looks like the spacing is 108/145mm which is no good for me.

This is the auction in case anyone else fancies their chances: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/26-mountain-bike-wheels-etc-sram-hubs/323068306614

Can't decide whether this a bargain or not? Which probably means it's reasonably priced.

2010 CdF, 54cm, £50 but still 6 days to go

Not sure where else to post this; you guys seem likely to know about hub servicing though.

eBay auction of some wheels says this:

Rims spokes etc are in great condition the hub bearing need attention as they're stiff.

Selling these as the need the hubs servicing!!!!

How much could it end up costing to get them rolling again? De/regrease is a piece of piss but what else am I likely to have to do? Does anyone know what these hubs are and whether they're loose/cartridge bearings?

Crap low-res eBay photo attached.

4 is ideal if you ask me:

• fancy summer road bike
  
• functional tourer/gravel/CX/winter bike/whatever
  
• MTB
  
• pub bike/beater
  
  

Skip the MTB if you're not into that, add track and/or TT if you do those things.

Edit: it goes without saying that ideally you just buy all the bikes. But 4 is manageable and covers nearly all sorts of riding for most people.

Here's a hideous sketch. Just divide the distance between two neighbouring bolts by sin(36°). If it's 28mm between bolts the BCD is 47.6mm.

Edit: Sounds like you already did this calculation as you said 47mm up the thread!

What's the distance between two adjacent bolts? It's easy enough to work out from geometry. Is that how you got the 47mm figure?

No, it doesn't; you have to get the canti posts rewelded. It can look decent - one of my favourite frankenbikes is a 26" to 700c conversion:

I just didn't expect there to be many 700c/chunky tyre bikes around in the 90s.

Is that a 26" > 700c conversion? Or just a 700c bike? Or are they skinny 26"s?

Shame about the seatpost/saddle thing, it's great otherwise.

Edit: they take 700x38 by default. There's a cheap one (looks small) for sale in London on eBay if anyone fancies building up something similar...

Looking good!

Sonder Camino and Jamis Renegade have carbon forks that can (theoretically) take some stuff. The Sonder can apparently take a full rack but everyone in here is very sceptical. You could definitely use some anything cages/drybags on there though.

If you really want to do trails you could get something like a Soma Wolverine that clears a 2.1" tyre. But the other factor is geometry; there's a limit to what you're able to ride on a low-stack drop-bar frame. Dirt drops and fat tyres might do it...

You could try renting a CX bike for a weekend and riding down some trails on it, so how you get on