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pretty sure i saw your clicks on ebay, check rule 3

Awesome!

The guy I am building the bike for has done all his geometry drawing himself. Makes it pretty easy to work with.

thats handy :)

This guy : http://www.dedaelementi.com/en/superzero-stem/

VGC

£45

I'm happy to pay/ donate 60 quid for it

straight 1 1/8

cheers, Ill see if anything else pops up, because id prefer black. But ill keep it in mind :)

Cheers

Shamless bump, someone please buy this its too nice to sit in my house unused

Awesome work, really coming together. I like your fixturing setups, always look simple and effective.

Updates and pricedrops, another stem added

yeah

I'm still keen! Will pm

Cheers

Nice One! Thats exciting, i'm sure it'll be great, i've only had positive experiences with Rtech.

The UI on mine is nice, certainly helps. Especially when i was starting, the diagram makes its easier to figure out what your changing, especially with pulse. I'm sure this is even more relevant with AC and other more involved stuff.

Thanks! :)

can i just screw a fixed cog + lockring on in place of the freewheel?

Potentially, but it depends what the threaded portion of the hub looks like. Freewheels attach with a threaded portion roughly 15mm long. They just thread on, then you remove them with a tool. A fixed cog uses a lockring that threads onto a smaller reverse thread. If you dont have this smaller thread you cant attach a lockring and cant really ride it fixed. There are ways involving glue and prayer, but its a bit dodge.

Many hubs are "flip flop", they have a freewheel threaded side and a fixed gear side, you may have this. I attached a photo of one of these. In this case you just flip the wheel and use the other side.

Clips vs straps is personal pref, try them and see what you like.

Getting decent chain tension with an eccentric bb can be a pain IME, but its fine.

here's mine, clears 2" tho i havent put any in yet

crackly paint is great!

Saw that Durianrider is doing an interview with

ooof if the misogyny and unpleasantness didn't convince people he was a tit, hanging around with dr will. Then again probably the same people who like hambini also like dr so idk.

ok hah ignore what i said actually, for some reason i thought the analogue one had no DRO but it does.
It looks like the major difference between the two in terms of the screen is the wave "illustration" that shows the amperage/time at different stages of the weld. Which is nice to have but not vital.

The memory is nice as well, but also not really that important. Tho i have used it for switching quickly between different settings in different places, i.e welding at the headtube and welding dropouts which i use slightly different settings for.

Nice one! Whats the plan on paint?

Cool jig as well, what do you think of it? A friend of mine has one, they seem pretty good. I have the LCFF at the moment, but it wont be the last jig i buy hah

Thats a really cool machine! I couldnt say for sure if itll mitre tubing amazingly who knows, but even if it doesnt, you still get an awesome tiny mill :).

My one is the digital dc one. This one

https://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/r-tech-tig-mma-welder-dc-160a-digital-240v/

I only do steel so didnt need ac. The digital-ness is nice, especially for the framebuilding. Often i'm fiddling with the amperage, mid welding. Its really nice to be able to control the amperage +/- 5 amps and not wonder how much you're changing it. I only bought the digital because it was on sale at the time, but it is very worth it.

I really like it, The only small thing i dont like is sometimes the high freq start isnt massively consistent at low amps. But its not a major issue, and is a given with lower cost machines.

People do it, theres that pithy bikes guy on yt who uses one of those small benchtop chinese mills. AFAIK they work ok, just with a bit of fettling. However because they are small,and small machines aren't rigid, you are forced to run the hole saw much faster than is best.This means that you wear the cutting tool faster.

Depends what mill you use as well, If you can find an older benchtop machine from 60s70s80s, then you are in a much better place (imo) than buying one of the chinese ones which are quite shite tbh. My lathe is from 1955, and runs amazing, way better than a chinese machine and half the price.

If you can find one, an older machine is a good bet, coincidentally theres someone looking for something similar on the lathes.co.uk classifieds at the moment.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/page3.html/

Heres my attempt, Its tough, i didnt scout out the whole thing before doing it. This was a mistake hah the last steep bit is way longer then i thought. Was a bit overgeared on 5017. I only had one attempt in me, I might go back tomorow and give it another shot.

https://www.strava.com/activities/3345584447

hah yeah its ok, but not great. Also over the weekend its rammed with people.