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a face full of splinters.

That's a horrible story, I hope you're ok now.

It's reassuring to hear that changing setup won't help, because I just got those wheels and I really enjoy how they ride. Plus, I wanted something a bit more versatile for road crits (only training for now), outdoor track (HH) and indoor (LVV). So I am glad that you're giving me the confidence to stick to clinchers.

For sure, every time I ride from now on I will inspect that the tube sits properly inside the tyre. And for sure I will switch to butyl tubes. One reason that surprised me of those latex tubes is that they deflate very quickly (almost completely over night), so you find yourself inflating them often, which increases the risk of pinching the tube.

I didn't manage to stay upright, but I managed to slow down, so I only went down when I hit the corner, and I slid down the wood. Wood burns on my arm, nothing else, fortunately.

I am using brand new wheels with carbon rims built by a professional. What I blame it to is the latex tube I was using. I inspected rim and rim tape and they look perfect. It wasn't a splinter, neither I think it was the rim tape, most likely it was the latex tube being slightly pinched between the rim and the tyre bead. For now, I am going to switch to butyl tubes, I don't care about those 5 extra watts anymore, I care more for safety. But I am also no longer confident about clinchers on the track in general. I have never used tubulars, but as far as I know, they can't blow up so quickly.

I just had a bad experience with clinchers. I am using Vittoria Pista G+ and the tube literally blew up at LVV, pretty scary experience. I am no longer sure I want to use clinchers anymore.

For those who use clinchers, what tubes do you use on the track?

Resuscitating this thread after 8 years...
I have a fresh Phil Wood hub, but I can't find anyone that sells a new Phil Wood 16t or 15t sprocket in London, so I have two options: DA or EAI (I have both on 16t already). Which of the two do you guys recommend on a Phil Wood hub?

Thanks @sterobe, price-wise looks good! Are you happy with the quality?

Hello! I want to print some t-shirts (around 50--100) with a bike-related custom design that I created myself. Do you have any recommendations on trustworthy and good quality print shops in London? (Possibly South-East/East London). Recommendations of online shops are also welcome, if you had good experience with them.
I want to keep the cost for each tshirt at around 10£.
Thanks!

New clearance after stuffing those bosses into the crank (@ekudduke's comment).
Much better, right?

Duke, you're a legend. I mean, I knew that already, but now.. a superlegend. I owe you a couple of pints.

Thanks everyone, drama is over, Duke is a superlegend, life is good again.

indeed :/ just a minute ago I asked if anyone is willing to swap :))

It's a new frame :/
About option 3, will Sugino 75 (not DD) work? Anyone willing to swap? :D I am half-serious.
I see that that square taper BB that comes with Sug 75 is 109mm long. How do I know that's going to be enough? Will that be compatible with, say, Shimano BB-UN that are longer, like 113?

Cheers!

@HousecatHST on my v1 mash work, the chainring was hitting on the chainstay as well with the omnium, ended up going square taper myself. What crankset did you use?

Thanks @Sumo. I wonder if anyone from the forum has had the same experience with the Mash Parallax and ended up fitting. I am ok with buy different cranks, but I can't try all possible combinations until one fits well :/
I was wondering how large in terms of clearane is the Dura Ace 7710.

@Sumo is that a good thing to do though? What spacers would I need? See my comment above about the spacers that come with the crankset.

another picture where it looks even more dramatic

@HarmanMogul from what I understand, spacers are not recommended. In fact, the only spacer that comes with the cranks is a tiny one for the LH to avoid the crank arm rubbing against the BB (that also comes with a warning «use only if strictly necessary»)

I found a thread about the same issue on the fixedgear subreddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/FixedGearBicycle/comments/4ck3h9/crank_arm_spider_and_chainstay_clearance_should_i/?ref=share&ref_source=link

@user71349 yeah, that's the chainring bolt boss. Even if I file all of them, clearance will still be around 1mm, which is awfully too small.

What ratio do you ride then?

And if you meant Parallax, you're violating the rule of Classified, as you have already posted here yesterday: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/329927/

You're confusing Parallax and Vigorelli. There is no such a thing as optical black and white vigorelli.

ahah, sorry, my username doesn't play well with my ad :)

LOL it looks like you are in the wrong place of the internet, buddy :D

Hi Jeffrey, yes, the frameset is still available.

way too aero though

Cinelli Mash Parallax with Sugino DD75.
The clearance between chainstay and crank spider is awfully too close, it's less than 1mm, should I worry?