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Thats a large window for the size of room. If the glass isn't Low-U, maybe consider replacing it with a new double glazed unit. That will keep some more heat in.

Being patterned glass it should be easy to tell:-
Patterned pane inside is standard glass.
Patterned pane outermost will (more than likely)have a Low-U coating on the inner clear pane.

Inline mixed flow extractors probably move 3 times the air volume of the one you have in the window. If theres access above the ceiling to install the ducting and fan, vented outside then that could make a big difference. Especially if you were replacing the glass.

The CK one may have better rubber for the cups, so maybe hold suction better... however its still a lever action so you cant restore the vacuum without undoing it.

Get two of the cheap screwfix tripple lifters, that way theres six cups holding.

Blowing £50, get this... i have actually hung from mine with it attached to a garage door.
https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/woods-n4000-powr-grip-suction-lifter-with-carry-case.html

I found this naff video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LKQ4NpViQJc
­ where the Handyman cuts out the scenes where he almost drops the window outside.

Link was missing the 'C' from the end.

By the the sound of his comments at the end, he found it more difficult than he envisaged. Personally, at that size of window he's working on, it's borderline worth taking the glass out 😕
If your reasonably strong, competent with a screwdriver, you have good working access and a friend to pass the screw you dropped then leave it in. At least with side hung, you can rest some of the weight on the bottom of the frame.

Remove it, if there's a chance of dropping it on someone or something expensive below, or your your just unsure of handling the weight in that position.

Screw holes being in a different position can be advantageous, because you get fresh plastic for the screw to go into, not a possibly stripped hole.

Even hinges that can be opened either way come as a pair. Ones that only open way come as left/right, top/bottom pair. Avocet did accidentally send me a pair of two right hand hinges in a larger order, so check before starting the work.

At 8 years old, I'd assume your windows have the glazing beads on the inside, so reasonable access to remove the beads and remove the glass... no fannying about outsidd on ladders with slings. With 3 reasonably large windows to do, I'd invest in a couple of chisels, a glazing shovel and maybe a cheap suction cup and remove the glass. That way your not holding a heavy sash and glass from the first floor. Plus it has been known for people to fit longer replacement screws or pilot drill too far and catch the edge of the glass which doesn't end well.
With the glass removed, its obviously lighter and so much easier to hold onto.
https://www.windowrepairshop.co.uk/epages/es115683.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es115683_shop/Products/C139

https://www.windowrepairshop.co.uk/epages/es115683.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es115683_shop/Products/J19

https://www.screwfix.com/p/double-cup-suction-lifter/6299p

These are the friction stays that I prefer to fit, as the spring in the top cap seems to work nicely.
https://www.avocet-hardware.co.uk/collections/friction-stays/products/phocas-friction-stays?variant=42298148421

I feel that the easy clean and egress hinges may be more prone to wear, as the plastic sliders tend to travel further compared to a standard opener. Obviously egress hinges serve a safety purpose, opening the sash wide and off to the side so you can climb out (rooms at the end of a corridor, away from exit doors). Easy clean also open wide, but the sash ends up more central so you can easily reach the outer pane... If you dont need 90 degree opening for easy cleaning, I'd go with standard ones, with a bonus of them being cheaper too.

Did you see post Post #16665 a few days back. Being side hung, yours are less of a juggle against gravity.

1. Undo screws securing bottom hinge to the frame.
   
2. Undo screws securing top hinge to frame
   3 - 8
   .
   .
   .9..Secure top hinge with two screws
   .10. Secure bottom hinge with two screws
   .11. Test close
   .12. Fit reminder of screws
   

I think our upload speed of 0.7Mbps wouldn't reliably support one Y-cam transferring to the cloud, let alone 3 or 4 of them.

Local hard drive/NAS is probably the way to go, with remote viewing if required.

Thanks.
The Hikvision domes have been a consideration as they look to be reasonably discreet and on paper good resolution. Plus I have a reel of cat5 and connectors, so only need small holes compared to coax with BNC and a power cable.

As you say, a bit spendy.

It was more a general comment, but yes, it's likely the cause of the issue with the hinges of @Quincy

We get some similar structural movement with the timber framed house builds which are typical for new Scottish houses. As the timber dries out, square frame openings turn into a parallelogram. Or sometimes sided of door frames end up bowed or twisted.

The majority of failed friction hinges that I see is down to neglect.

An occasional clean off with a stiff paintbrush to remove dust and spiders webs. Followed by some silicon spray for the frame track where the slider goes up and down and around the top cap. Some 3in1 oil for the hinge pivot points.

Whilst your at it, give the locking mechanism a squirt of 3in1 as well.

Recommendations for a home external cctv system?
3 or 4 cameras with usable day/night defenition.
Viewable on phone whilst away.

The friction hinge is broken, but should be repairable. The top fixed section on the frame has a top cap receptacle to receive the location lug atop the opening sash... The two parts mating together should pull the top of the sash against the frame. But metal type top caps often open up when the lug hits it and doesn't slide into its closed position. Some cheaper plastic top caps just snap off.

I prefer to fit Avocet Phocas hinges, as they have a sprung top cap and a good guarantee. However you need to pay attention to positioning a replacement hinge so the sash sits at the correct height in the frame.

It may be easier to do a like for like replacement if there's a name on them.

1. Your window is top hung (hinges at the top and handle at the bottom).
   
2. Measure the length of the hinge on the frame. They are normal expressed as 8,10, 12, 16, 18, 24 inches.
   
3. Measure the width of the track on the frame 17-18 mm is standard, whilst 15-16mm is less common slim line
   
4. They come in 13 and 17mm variations, of stack height. Which if the thickness of the hinge stack when it's closed together in the gap between sash and frame.
   
   
   

You don't want to drop the window, so I'd suggest taking the glass out of larger windows, then you can hold onto the frame easily. But for a smaller window that's not going to be too heavy and awkward, wrap one of these around it a couple of times to use as a handle. Don't use suckers on patterned glass or rely on them to stay in place with holding a sash whilst your changing hinges!
https://www.screwfix.com/p/cambuckle-tie-down-straps-2-5m-x-25mm-2-pack/87355

Reusing screw holes often needs larger diameter screws to get a good bite as the thread comes away when you remove the screws. So grab a pack of 19 and 25mn of these.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-self-drilling-pan-head-screws-4-2-x-25-x-100-pack/2929h

1. Open window and wrap your straps around the sash. Take note whether the hinge top cap is hard up against the top of the frame, or a gap. Remove all but one screw from either side of the frame.

2. Remove the remaining screws then push the window outwards to free the sash complete with hinges from the frame.

3. Collapse the hinges to make it easier to bring the sash indoors.

4. With the hinges closed. Measure how much the top cap is sticking up, because you'll want the new hinges at the same height.

5. Offer your new hinges up to the frame to see if there's screw holes through the slotted holes in the hinge. Mark and pilot drill if needed, as doing this whilst holding the sash in place is fun.

6. Make sure your new hinges are opening the correct way. Some can be opened backwards and won't close correctly when fitted.

7. Fit new hinges to the sash, using the slotted holes. Close hinge and check the height of the top cap from part 4. Fix remaining screws.

8. Pass sash back through the window opening and extend the hinges and get them to sit into the frame. Get a screw in one side to take the weight, so you can sort the other side.

9. Position the hinge at the required height and fix with a couple of screws.
   Set the height of the second hinge and fix with a couple of screws.

10. Close the window and ensure it closes and locks correctly

11. Fit remaining screws to frame.

Low bar squat is easier on it.

^^^ have you answered your question.
So long as you don't go too deep, or allow your knees to slide Fwd, low bar gives less knee flexion and uses less quad strength than front/goblet squats. Offset by more hip flexion and hamstrings being under tension at the bottom.

I found Reverse lunges are easier on my knees.

I posted these two video links earlier, but they got slightly buried in the belt/no belt debate.

Depending on how you press. With a stricter style using a bit of rebound from tension in the shoulders and arms, or Press 2.0 with the hip drive to get some upwards momentum.

https://youtu.be/CnBmiBqp-AI

https://youtu.be/tMAiNQJ6FPc

I know comfort and enjoyment aren't prerequisites for barbel training, but hook grip is going to take a bit of adapting to. The bar knurling is a bit savage, so some tape may help.

Thumbs are still aching.

Tried hook grip again for Deadlift 😥
Survived the warmups to 90kg but its still bloody awful. Didn't fancy trying 3x5@ 107 with it, but reverse grip may be workable.

on another note, DL 126kg = strong back. what is that? 1.75 your body weight? you should feel confidence in your back (but do what you discuss with your coach obvs).

Thanks. 126 was 1.7x bodyweight. Grip strength is becoming an issue with double overhand, so it's time to try reverse grip... Hopefully that's workable because hook grip is like slamming your thumb in a door 😳

I'm certainly a lot more confident with my back, but Quadratus Lumborum still stays on way too much. Just not painful spasms so much now 😀

You said using a belt increases your output by 25%, so the belt has a direct affect.

That's not quite what I wrote, or intended to portray.

"Well I can press 25% more with a belt, compared to the point where the weight makes me mentally think twice"

Having hurt my back countless times since childhood. Usually sneezing or putting on my socks, I'm possibly over protective of it over 40kg.
Having previously done some of the remedial massage therapy work and then starting me into strength training, it was my coach that recommended putting on a belt for heavier presses (which have been up to 52kg). Speaking with him tonight, he couldn't understand why you would rather not wear one.

The muscles that the belt is compensating for won’t be getting stronger.

Its a 3 or 4" belt, hardly a magical exo skeleton that let's your core do cock all. Your whole kinetic chain is still supporting the load and a heavier load requires more overall muscle power to stabilise and lift.

In the earlier Art of manliness video, Ripp has Brett put on a belt for the Press. Make of that what you will.

Tonights session.
Bench 3x5 @66kg pb
Deadlift warmup to 110kg beltless
1@120 then 5@126kg pb

I'm intrigued, how much are you pressing to feel you need help in 'keeping your back set'?

3x3@ 48kg and 4x5 @ 42.5kg at the moment. Not big weights by any means, but for a once scrawny ultra runner, they are much improved from the 5@ 27.5kg that I could manage back in May.

Good video, impressed by the guy at the end doing 225!

There's definitely some good weights in there. My short term goal is 60kg

Would you rather not learn to do things properly, and not rely on an accessory?

I imagine most people would prefer to do things properly. But a belt doesn't add any mechanical advantage to a lift, so I don't see it as improper.

Its not like a squat suit, or knee sleeves that offer some rebound assistance and help drive the load.

If a belt let's me keep my back set for longer at higher intensities then so be it. Those cheating reps will be making me stronger overall, which will ultimately be driving my naked strength up too. After all, aren't we trying to lift more than our bodies are designed to lift. That's the whole point of strength training.

If you’re using correct form then there’s no reason you should injure yourself in a simple compound lift, unless you go mega heavy or haven’t warmed up properly.

I agree that practicing the correct form, with managable increased loads and correct warmups are key. A belt shouldn't be a device to fix stupidity. Attempting an unfeasable weight ( for any lift, with or without good form) and hoping a belt will help is just asking for trouble.

However the Press isn't exactly a simple compound lift when you're pressing a heavy barbel above your head, trying to stay upright and not cave your skull in.
Outright core strength is unlikely to be the cause for a missed press rep as your arms and shoulders wont get a "too heavy" bar past your chin or nose level. Having the pressure feedback of a belt just allows you to feel how hard your pushing that breath and bracing the torso, so your shoulders have a stable platform to work on... which for me lets me concentrate a bit more on the rest of the movement.

Found the other vid that I was looking for previously.
https://youtu.be/tMAiNQJ6FPc

Well I can press 25% more with a belt, compared to the point where the weight makes me mentally think twice. So the extra stress is likely to be making me stronger overall. Including my core and legs which is going to be more effective than a seated press.

OHP is not an exercise you want to compensate for a lack of core strength with the use of a belt. You might as well be doing a seated press.

Conversely, OHP is not an exercise you want to compromise your potential core strength by not using a belt.
I don't use it for lighter warmup sets, but will put it on for working sets.

With one available, why wouldn't you use one?

@spenceey
How to OHP with Mark Rippetoe >>
https://youtu.be/CnBmiBqp-AI

I find a belt really helpful with OHP. A deep breath into your belly and brace against the belt keeps your core stable.

Don't push the bar out to avoid your nose, as you'll have a long way round, with poor leverage before you can get under it. Briefly tilt your head back to get your nose out of the way and get under the bar as soon as possible.

In your previous post, the second diagram has 3core +earth dropping down to the switch. The extra conductor would make it possible, but without it your stuck.

Smart bulb /motion sensor switched?
Pull through another cable?
Move house?

My parents bathroom extractor fan has been temperamental recently, sometimes dying but a slight pull of the switch apparently sorts it. So I had a quick look to see if there was a loose connection in the switch before getting a new one tomorrow.

The pull cord switched the fan on/off without any timer function, as the electrician that installed it wired the live and timer terminals together and used the pull cord switch as an isolator/ on of switch. So I'm going to fit a 1g DP switch for the fan isolator and replace the worn pull switch, wired for the timer live. Nice n easy but it should have been done at the install.

Looking further up the feed, the upstairs lighting JB is nice 😕 the new fan feed is bottom left, with the green electrical tape covering a bit of chock block.
Is it worth replacing the twisted connectors with Wago connectors in a new box?