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She desperately needed shearing and once shorn would probably suffer if put out on the hill now winter is here. Hence needing a new home.
The farm park is closed for the winter, so there wouldn't be any petting until the spring at least. If there was ever going to be any.

Of course the logical answer would have been to leave her be and lower down another sheep to keep her company.

Trump and company liable for fraud in New York lawsuit, judge rules.

https://www.cnbc.com/2023/09/26/trump-and-company-liable-for-fraud-in-new-york-lawsuit-judge-rules.html

Will Trump Tower end up renamed?!

If its designed in UK and looks vaguely like an upturned bin. Its probably linked with >>
http://www.red-limited.com/

You're assuming he was replying to you.

Although without replying to anyone, we can only guess which post is actually replying to which.

Why are you being prodded!

I have removed a bath and will be permanently capping off the redundant 22mm hot /cold copper pipes.

They are currently capped with JS Speedfit push on, which was the quickest way.
Before I insulate, plasterboard and wetwall over the top of them, should I replace the Speedfit? If so, with what?

I have solder ring, end feed and compression end caps on hand

Would they work on side-opening windows? I imagine they could if you mounted them on the bottom of the window frame, but all the pictures are of windows that open from the top.

Yes, just mount them on the bottom edge. However that depends if there's enough space left on the end of the hinges.

https://www.asec.co.uk/asec-1591-asec-concealed-locking-window-restrictor-kit.html

I'd try these before going with the face fixed cables.

Those cable restrictors are effective but well ugly. Hence they are usually only found on hotels where liability trumps aesthetics.

What type of window are you trying to secure, as there's other options depending on the style of opening
Tilt and turn
Outward opening casement

Enjoyed watching a few of these recently.
Keep Smiling Adventures.

https://youtu.be/K_1vOFd4hvs

More haste, less speed.

Sounds like you removed the cylinder whilst the mechanism was locked. Or the lock is actually fucked. On most locks, the cylinder cam picks up and moves a bit left/right to unblock the mechanism

Use a cylinder which you have a key for and try unlocking it.

There's a good chance of damaging the locking mechanism case by doing this.

I've just snapped 3 basic nickel cylinders in old door lock mechanisms. Two came out ok, but one left the side of the case bent.

Pm sent.

Cylinders are usually 30mm, 35mm and upwards in 5mm steps. Although some manufacturers treat it as a nominal dimension.
32/32 is actually a thing, although less common.
A 30/30 would work, but the cylinder may be dead flush or slightly recessed in the handle.
A 35/35.will also fit but leave about 5mm proud each side.

It's definitely catching on one of the keeps.

If something is clashing but i cant see where, i use a dab of lipstick, grease or such like on the locking point. Close the door and look for any transfer marks an the frame.

Edited.
There's tools for removing snapped keys.
Thin wires with barbs cut into them>>
Broken key extractor set https://amzn.eu/d/0bCMOdb

To remove the key, you need to orientate the key into the broken key into the position where it can normally be inserted and removed.

To replace the cylinder, you'll need to get the cam aligned with the bottom of the cylinder cuttout, to allow you to withdraw the cylinder. That's normally done by turning the key about 15 degrees turned one way or the other.
You'll also need to remove the retaining screw which is accessed through the hole in the faceplate... when the faceplate is in the correct place, as I assume it still moves up/down when the handle lever is moved.

Doors that are difficult to lock are often caused by the door being out of adjustment with the frame. So, one or more of the locking points can't travel quite far enough without it bottoming out in the keep. At which point you're lifting or pulling the door into place with the locking mechanism before you can turn the key.

Being a sliding door, I'd guess the bottom rollers need a slight adjustment to raise the door. Or one roller needs adjustment to get the side of the door equally aligned with the side of the frame. Looks like there's also packers available to shim the keeps.
https://www.gfdhomes.co.uk/downloads/cortizo/cortizo-install-guide.pdf

Late seeing this post, but you have a PM

Woop woop.

@c00ps

Excellent news
(repacks bivvy for hols in a couple of wks...)

Good news yes, but there's plans afoot by a tory twat to limit it again... lying in Parliament is the norm isn't it

https://youtu.be/K-McrbbtuaI

Are the wheels true and well balanced?

Sunday workout is playtime and leg day.

Finally summoned up the bottle to commit to a forward roll on the rings!
First time was an uncontrolled plummet descent, but not actually scarry.
Second try, I managed to control it, keeping the rings tight in and could dip push straight back up 😀

With that mental hurdle out of the way, straight bar dips can now transition to fwd rolls into tucked front lever and reverse rolls into a muscle up.

Didn't get much leg work done.

Fitbit Charge 5 (belongs to my Mrs) has been bricked by a software update. Along with many others reported on the help pages.

Tried all the restarting procedures, changed the clock face etc which has worked for some.
Went through it all again with the support chat and no change. Fortunately its only a few months old and he offered a warranty replacement.

If you have one and the screen goes black/unresponsive, don't unpair it to try resolving! You won't be able to see the 4 digit code to pair.

I do have a feeling there's some sort of residue from manufacturing (maybe some kind of release agent) that eventually wears off.

Plastics may also degrade.
I recently started getting a rash under my Garmin 620 watch and swapped to the other wrist for a bit of relief. The irritation started on the other wrist after a few days.

I bought it in Dec 2013, so wasn't too sad.
Fitbit Versa 4 replacement hasn't caused any issues.

I don't think I could manage it with pullups at the moment. Previously failed at 8. Weighted pull ups may be taking over from weighted chins if my shoulder agrees to it.

Just managed a full 1-10-1 pyramid superset of chinups and dips.

Dead hang,up to chest to bar.
Deep ring dips to near failure (4, 5 or 6) then continued any remaining on the dip bars.

The Rwanda scheme is very expensive so if you want to make it "value for money" you need to slow down the existing asylum process so that also becomes very expensive and the Rwanda option becomes the cheaper option.

That's not a hard stretch for the imagination, even if it's not the intention.

One of our local hotels was taken over at the end of April and will be accommodating 50 young men for the foreseeable with a room each.

The hotel had pool and gym.
4 function rooms for +300 with several weddings planned and Christmas/new years mostly booked.
Licenced restaurants.
Could accommodate 200.

Most of the staff were given short notice and planned events were cancelled.
Even with much of the place mothballed and minimal staff, I can't it being a cheap solution to offset the loss of income at 25% occupancy.

@Bezzin
Handle attachment screws should be on the inside if at all possible. 2* security handles protect the cylinder against cylinder snapping and will add some strength to the wood around the lock , so maybe worthwhile swapping... if your lock is PZ92 between cylinder and handle spindle.

It may be possible to lift the door off the hinges, or unscrew the bottom portion of the hinge from the shed, with an Allen key. Adding some type of "hinge security dog bolt" would limit this.

Replacing the glass with polycarbonate sheet glued in, or sticking on some security film on the existing glass would slow down a smashed glass break in.