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Not much of a project but I did trade out the white stock saddle and bar tape as well as stock 18t freewheel for 15t fixed.

forks are so last year.
i have replaced all of mine with sporks.

the best thing about a spork is the fact i can eat with one hand, and scratch my balls with the other.

I always thought those contraptions were called runcible spoons.

Spork...... I like that better.

1982 Chicago Schwinn Continental frame (stripped and fixed)
1987 Cannondale SM500 MTB (Restored and currently on the wall)
1987 Fisher HKeK MTB (Original and in mint condition)
2002 Gary Fisher Tassajara Disc MTB (Current rider for towing kiddie in trailer)
2005 LeMond Tourmalet (Long rides on open road)
2005 Cannondale commuter (loaner bike)
2009 Gary Fisher Triton (Fixed)

Farting in the bath.....

Alright now, there will be no farting in the bath. I have the hang of things now.
Nice to meet you BTW.

I was giving him the benefit of the doubt :)

Thanks.

Interesting, Thanks for posting.

I have two B-17s and would never part with them.

.

Did any of them work?

Have this happen periodically at work. Two options when you do come to removing the offending crank.

A. Find a shop with a suitable tap and puller, and get them to cut some new oversize threads.

B. As i did recently, quicker and easier. Get one of these..

http://www.avenue35.co.uk/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=13466

Then remove your chainring. Wedge the fork of the ball joint separator between the B/B cup and the back of the crank with a few persuasive taps from the proverbial hammer.

Then heat the crank with a blowtorch for a good 5 mins. Finally once the alloy has heated nicely hit the ball joint separator with good force and the crank should just "fall off".

Ive used this and found it works as well to remove a crank with the same problem.

/attachments/7993

I feel a bit ashamed I know exactly how that happend on your crank....... Extractors come with a button for other styles of cranks, yours and mine require the button be removed and I failed to do so once.

this thread prompted me to go and buy a wrench. i thank you all.

+1 Thanks.

Green will work well but grey will be faster with Ti. No worries though green will be more versatile and can be used for other metals for when the polishing bug bites you. Good choice.

If you want to retain a little brushed finish just don't exert as much pressure on the buff as you would if you are going for a high polish. I suspect you will have better results if you first go for the high polish.
If you have long scratches, polish at a 90 degree angle to them and they will smooth right out.

After everything is smooth and uniform add your brush finish with strips of fine sandpaper or scotchbrite. I think the brush finish looks better if whats under it is uniform to start with.

BTW, the green compound on a soft buff can be used to polish out abrasions on carbon gelcoat as well with a very light touch paying close attention to not letting the carbon part heat up in the slightest. I did this on a second hand carbon seatpost myself that was used by a shorter leged person than I. I am certain however that some waranty personage somewhere would be wagging a finger at me if they knew, so I accept no responsibilities if you attempt to polish carbon yourself.

My son with his first bike, 2 minutes after receiving it.

/attachments/7908

Here is an example of brakes I used polishing compound to polish. Granted it is aluminum but the same result can be had with stainless or Ti. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/3412090690_6af170df4a_m.jpg Took longer to disassemble and reassemble them than it did to polish, also was easy to remove deep scratches and casting blemishes as well. http://www.flickr.com/photos/37073270@N06/with/3411283385/

If you cant find Greystar locally use the generic name "Tripoli" in your searches...... Should be able to find polishing compounds of all grits in a hardware store as well.

Ive applied WD-40 to a seatpost periodically over a period of a couple days on an old Schwinn frame, worked for me.

I've got a brand new bench grinder.

Must be a wheel/paste for the task, but I honestly have no idea.

Welcome to borrow it in exchange for moving it from Old Kent Rd to Archway, via your own location.

Perfect, use the Greystar!

Check with a jewelry repair supply house, look for something called 'Greystar' Its a compound used to charge large or small muslin buffs. I use the stuff at work for polishing gold, silver, platinum, stainless steel and even Ti when the need arises. http://www.progresstool.com/pd-grey.cfm You will need some sort of mechanical device that will drive a buff of some sort but if you have access to a bench grinder you can mount a buff like this on it and have at it. Note the size of hole in the buff and motor spindle size when shopping to get the proper fit. http://www.progresstool.com/pd-stitched-muslin-buff-with-shellac-center---6-x-80-ply.cfm That site has other buffs that can be mounted in smaller rotary devices like Dremels and the like if you choose to go that route. Just charge the buff with the Greystar often and you will end up with a highly polished item. BTW, this is a dirty job so try to do it outside or somewhere a fair quantity of black dust would be tolerated. If you go with the smaller buffs in a Dremel like device you will find this setup can also be used to polish rims, spokes (if they are stainless) cage screws, stainless cogs and lockrings and all sorts of other bike parts.

Sure, if'n you don't have enough bits on your bars I suppose their is always room for more. http://crca.ucsd.edu/sheldon/bicycle/titanium/titanium-cockpit2-400.jpg

I used to have one gaffer taped to my handlebars, it got confiscated off of me by the po-lice :(

Local police frown on that sort of thing here as well. Bells seem to be the only thing that passes.

So sorry, please disregard my clueless and classless degenerate comment earlier.... I have no idea what has come over me. I shall get myself back to my corner and not come out till I learns myself some manners. I'm 39 BTW. How you doin'?

Try a brake block made of softer or different compound. Have not had the problem nor changed any lately but I to remember reference given to Kool-Stop the last time I read something about this annoyance. http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

3 is the winner, check her legs!

Me likes her legs. She (3) appears to be the only one with decent cans as well.

+1 in the subject of preferring cut up apples and rejecting apple flavored things.... The 3 worst fake flavors IMO are fake apple, fake coconut and fake banana. Fake banana reminds me too much of the dreaded banana flavored cotton swab at the dentist just before anesthesia injection.

Sign me up for 3 and 5.

RE: Fruit. Lately it has been honeydew with morning tea then out the door with frozen grapes. RE: First Fixie. Anticipate stops well ahead.

Or you can ignore them if you're trying to get out of the nursery =P

That would be me.... 3 more to go and 48 hours I believe then I will have an "Edit" function at my disposal.

After the third try I had it figured out. Sorry again.