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TheBrick Have you tried moving the chain ring to the outside of the spider (if it isn't already)? This may bring you close to 45 mm and with a asymetric cog (a brand was mensioned in another thread) and or spacers this may be able to sort you out? Just an idea.
This is my next try. On the inner side of the spider (nearest the centre of frame) is the chainring, then on the other side of the spider is a metal bash guard.
I think I might be able to take off the bash guard, measure the thickness where it bolts to the spider, then order some spacers of the equivalent thickness from hubjub, then space the spacers between the spider, and the chainring on the outside of the spider.
Mr Smith - you have a goldtec track rear do you not? Could you measure what the chainline line is please i.e. from the inside of the drop out to the where the threads end?
i did a little sketch in photoshop just in case i'm making little sense (the red bit)

goldtec say the chainline is "roughly" 45mm. im hoping i can use a thiner cog, and then space the chainring - and all should be well (within a couple of mm)
ta :)
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the praise that mrsmith and others have given goldtec hubs has persuaded me to go for them.
my frame is spaced 132.5mm and my chainring chainline is 41mm. The normal chainline is approx 45mm according to Goldtec's web site.
So my thinking is, buy the 120mm spaced hub, then buy from goldtec the 130mm axle conversion kit thingy. Then my chainline will be 45mm minus 5mm - 40mm! Get a cog that budges over a mm.
Now to the main point... anyone else doing this, work ok and got a picture they could post? I don't want my bike looking nasty ;-)
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After realising that I've got a hub that is never going to give me a good chainline no matter how many washers i add to the cranks or mess about with, I've decided I need to get some new wheels.
My front cranks have a 41mm chainline. They're external bearing, and the spider doesn't allow me to shift the chainring to the outside so adjusting that is not really that great an option.
Any recommendations?
Phil Wood - too expensive :(
Goldtec - 45mm chainline
Surly - 47mm chainline
Level - the cogs seem silly. i'd rather buy a chainwhip.Tom.
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TheBrick Don't leave it out side overnight reguarly it will be nicked. If the halls are really that arsey get your self a bike bag (one with out padding is cheap £30) and put it in there. Or just "Hide it" under a sheet in your room. As long as you are descreate, cearful about chipping paint on door ways leaving mud / oil everywhere e.t.c you should be o.k. If you are nice to your cleaners and keep your room ok other wise they will be cool. Bring your bike up after a week or two after you have sused out the situation. Only lock a real beater outside overnight reguarly that you don't mind being stolen.
The krypto chain can be broken in a 1 min or so check out the vid.
That's a good idea - I didn't think of a bag! I really want to ride whilst at uni - I think i'd go crazy without it :-|
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also trampsparadise reminded me of something i was told by chainreactioncycles... where there is no supporting body other than the cleat on eggbeaters they wear away at the soles of your shoes more than others. they sell these metal plates to screw in between the cleat and shoe to stop it, but it's a bit of a kludge.
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you might find this useful: http://wiggle.co.uk/HTM/shoecompatibility.htm
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yeah, the mini d does look good. i'm ridiculously paranoid though, hence i got the 3000. the fahgettaboudit is a nice compromise

i think at uni i might have to leave my bike out overnight :( no where indoors, halls don't allow bikes in side. probably end up with a 2/3 u locks and and a krypto chain :P
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u locks are the best.
cycling plus had a review last month on locks - the only lock that lasted more than 10 minutes of attack was the kryptonite new york 3000 - i've got it and it looks bloody solid.
the kryptonite new york chain was broken in 8 minutes. cable locks are crap; cut through even the best one's with a battery powered tool in a couple of min.
the worry thing was that a lot of the locks, when they were under manual attack, i.e. by hand, actually ended up damaging the frame more than the lock 8-|
i dunno if anyone else has the ny 3000 but i actually find it a bit too big, especially with skinny tyres. if you had a beefy mountain bike it'd be better. kryptonite make a new york fahgettaboudit that's smaller but i couldn't find it anywhere :(
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stef - well £4 with a £20 train ticket. plus rirding in london is obv way more fun than sitting on the tube. The Oyster card prices for students that the uni i'm going to told me are insane :-| £90 a month zone 1 + 2. hah.
Yeah, i found that too. As soon as I had a lid on cars overtake way closer.
But, yeah, no more helmet talk. :)
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the-smiling-buddha when cycling in a city there are two ways to ride safe - riding passively or riding aggressively- passively involves a wearing protective helmet and hi -vis clothing ...
Why is wearing a helmet passive? I don't ride in London, because I don't live there - but when I do come to London I bring my bike (£4 for a travelcard? pftt). i wear a helmet everywhere.
No matter how agressively you ride there's the possiblity an arsehole doesn't see you, and if a helmet might save my life, well, i might as well.
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a wheel shaped tampon. comfort AND durability?