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Early Fugio frame which was basically a cyclocross race bike made from Reynolds 853. I had mudguard mounts added and had it powder coated by Steve at Aurum.

It currently has a Columbus futura gravel fork which is much more a road length fork but with good clearances and mudguard mounts, compared to the previous cyclocross fork. As a result it has pretty steep angles now, around 74 head tube.

The fork is actually 1 1/4 inch but the head tube is 1.5 inch. It has a reducer in there which works perfect. Fork is thru axle, rear dropouts QR

It will clear 42mm without guards and 35 with. The current guards are only 42mm but 45s will fit fine. I have some if you would like those instead.

Geometry Bare in mind the fork is now a different length.

Hope headset, Ultegra BB and seat clamp included, guards if desired. Takes a 27.2 post.

Small scratch on top tube pictured. It has top tube cable routing and guides for top pull FD but it has a problem solvers adapter to run bottom pull. Good segue into the fact that the mudguard mount which was added at the seat tube was put in at a cock angle and as a result, is useless. The problem solvers adapter is being used as the mudguard mount, it is solving two problems in one, that’s included.

£350 > £325 > £300 collected in N16

@jmg412

I've had a bad experience with a cheap J&L off ebay. Chain kept dropping off. The ones from Spa are much better and reasonably priced.

Is there any reason you didn’t cut the excess edges of the tubing down and file it smooth with the rest of the stays? Aesthetic choice?

Well there you go. Maybe there is a standard aluminium steerer ID. I can't think what other reason that it would only be for alu. I have had issues with carbon bungs being too small/big for certain carbon forks so there certainly is no standard for carbon steerers ID.

Morale of the story, always write out your threads in notes or notepad before posting

It may just be too small for a steel steerer as the ID of carbon steerers is different to steel. I am assuming you are using it on a metal steerer, given the suggestion of fitting a star nut

Well isn't a head doctor just hopes compression bung for carbon steerers? It's definitely over-engineering - if you could call it that, maybe just the wrong part - to use it in a steel fork. I can't remember exactly but can you remove the top cap part? Then there may be a hex head to tighten the compression bung and then you screw the top cap part in after that.

as will I!

shocking, honestly think that kind of stuff deserves a ban.

Ye the v-brakes are going to be a nice improvement. But aren't those XT levers linear pull, ie for v-brakes only? They are M739s right? They're never going to feel good!

I like those forks, I have them in blue. I do think a more retro crankset would suit it better though!

Hmm I've looked at a few guides to service shimano clutches, none of them mention locktite. There was no locktite breaking crack when I disassembled either. There's a roller bearing that sits on the outside of the p-axle, that the clutch pushes down on when engaged. I assume it isn't working properly and that's why it is tightening. I just don't know what has caused it to stop working.

Assume they're just press fit? Do they have any rubber o-rings inside inside to keep them in place? Maybe they've fallen out?

It’s definitely being caused by the clutch because when I remove the clutch mechanism it’s not happening and remains nice and springy no matter how many times I move it back and forth

In hindsight I’m not sure what I was doing. I was getting annoyed and maybe I was rotating it the wrong way. And I was possibly over torquing the p-axle/cage bolt. Anyway I’ve replaced the spring and the mashed up seal and it’s all together and I’ve wound it round and it’s all good.

However a few movements back and forth of the cage and it goes all tight again. So I back off the bolt and it’s nice and springy again. But again a few movements back and forth of the cage and it goes all tight. Moving the cage back and forth is tightening the p axle bolt. No idea why. I’ve taken it all apart, made sure it’s greased, backed off the clutch tension but the same thing keeps happening.

I should add that the mech is totally unused, so it’s not worn or full of dirt.

no pic of the actual solution!?

I do still have it and haven't cut the steerer actually but I am saving it for a project I've been wanting to do for a while and it's much too valuable I'm afraid!

If you use something porous then it shouldn't be an issue

Can I ask what colour that is? Is it a RAL?

that, I do not know

How would a speed limit for cyclists be enforced? Speed limits for cars with registration plates are hard enough to enforce.

I’m getting increasingly irate here. I’m changing the cage on my GRX mech to the cage from an M8000 mech, basically changing from medium cage to long cage so I can run a wide double drivetrain.

Anyway, every time I try to spin/load the cage, the hook on the spring pops up. It happened last week, I thought oh no maybe I went the wrong way accidentally without thinking. So I ordered a new one and a new gasket/seal because it completely chewed up the seal last time. Go to install it this weekend and the exact same thing it happening. I’m definitely loading the spring the right way but before I get all the way round the hooked end of the spring forces itself out and jams in between the cages. I’ve tried bending the hook in slightly so it grips better but the same thing just keeps happening. The seal is completely chewed up again. Also a photo of the spring showing it slightly bent up which has now happened to both.

What am I doing wrong?

thank you!

Old post but the yellow colour on the first bike is lovely. Is it a RAL?