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Catching rays on the Great Wall of China

If the landlord is being a twat and kicking you out why not just break the concrete if you have SDS? Fill it back in if you’re feeling really kind.

As mentioned above, lower hub engagement does nothing for the fact that your chain will be flapping around on impact. Products like STFU are probably a cheaper way to test it, or even cheaper: remove your chain for a run or two.

The biggest problem can be that it is impossible to get a facing tool to the flat mount. Obviously no issue if there is good QC from the factory..

I don't understand that a fork flap can help reduce the aero penalty of a disc caliper, but why do they leave that ugly axle head flapping out in the breeze? It would make their life easier if they made the forkflap continue to the bottom of the fork and then did a counterbore to hide the axle head.

It's not just kickback from the freehub, but tension from the chain flapping up and down.

No it won't work, but O-Chain make a Cane Creek version

They aren't allowed to use power tools, and can use sandbags to stabilise a slope, but no other structures. It's all on private land I think, but they only have a couple of areas that they switch between each year so they are really altering a very small area of the mountain.

Brendan's YT channel shows the features he is building. Pinkbike published an article about the airlift.

It seems like Avio are out of business now? CAlibrating with a 10kg weight will not be accurate at all. A home gym weight could easily have 2% error, you are only calibrating in one orientation (horizontal crank), you are calibrating with around 10% of your expected values so any error in calibration will be magnified at higher forces... I wouldn't trust that device to give accurate power numbers.

What does the manufacturer of the power meter suggest? Epoxy would be the most obvious commercially available adhesive. I would to get a 10-minute or longer setting one as it will generally be stronger than a 4-minute.

I don't know what powermeter you are referring to, but crank based powermeters work by measuring strain in the crank arm. When you push on a pedal, you are notjust bending the crank arm in the main plane of the bike, but you are also twisting it. There is a chance that the powermeter manufacturer has created a stiffness profile of the crank in question and loaded that into the firmware of the device.
What is the calibration method they suggest? If they don't know the stiffness of the crank you are mounting it on, it will be quite a difficult thing to do at home.

Q36.5 seem open to having riders from MTB. Filippo Colombo has raced with them a few times over from Scott-Sram. Maybe Pidcock could get a double contract there?

R Pidders on his way to Italy?
https://cyclinguptodate.com/cycling/bombshell-tom-pidcock-could-be-on-his-way-out-of-ineos-grenadiers-and-joining-swiss-proteam
Could be following Pinarello money and take them with him to Q36.5?

Have you ever really gravelled if you haven't packrafted down a canyon? Have you ever really gravelled if you haven't rappelled with your bike off a small ledge? Gravel is Subversion of the Human. Back row introspection.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx3j3kiqBHI

Nothing and Everything.

Reminds me of this sign in a Norwegian parking garage.

Good find! Thanks

52mm was the standard boost spacing. It was only with the new SRAM T-type stuff that the move to 55mm really happened. Shimano will run absolutely fine with 52mm.

Whilst staying in a Swiss mountain cabin last weekend, I found this strange looking tool in the toolbox. It's a sharpened, scalloped chisel with two channels, each of which has some rasp-like texture. Only mark I could see was "2 1/2". No idea what it is for, but it's definitely a porn worthy tool.

May as well replace the whole top unit for a cartridge type. At least then you'll be sure it all fits together nicely.

I’ll treat myself various accouchement such as walking stick, pipe etc

None of these are cutters and anything that works as cutters will not be a good wrench. For an allrounder set of Knipex pliers wrench I would go for the 180mm

If getting Wera, I would advise against the HF (Holding Function) model of Torx keys. They are super high quality, but the HF means they are too tight for some fasteners and I've found myself damaging a few T25 screw heads when not being careful. The HF Hex keys are brilliant however. PB Swiss make excellent everything.

https://www.abus.com/int/Consumer/Highlights/One-Key-Option

Don't watch videos, Wahoo change the inserts they provided on a whim so chances that yours is the same as the video are quite slim. If the insert is flippable, it will just pull out of the trainer, no need to unscrew anything.