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Do it on a Novatec double fixed hub, have done for years. At times i have run double SS freewheels.
Safety element is correct, a shop staffer would not be able to say do it or it can be done for liability issues. So i wouldn't slate mechanics for saying no.
The risk is less thread engagement over using the correct full thread for a SS freewheel.It's well covered already on this thread.
many do it with no issue, you do it at your own risk and risk of damage to hub. -
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Turned attention to spare set of wheels.
Rear hub is rough needs new bearings on axel, freehub might be ok.Inflated a set of spikes. Don't know if these are still made.
Tagged as "FRO lite" For Race Only :) for when the track your racing is wet and fresh new line.
Be hard work on the dressed and well worn bike park tracks. -
@lookitsluke yep seals are good. I used to smear 10wt oil over seals after cleaning and for storing.
At worst the info I am using is wrong and I have now overfilled, this will cause a limit in fork travel, so just remove equal amounts of oil to bring travel back.
Old school tuning, oil height and weight and low pressure air assist. ideally I hit the magic oil volume that stops travel a few mm before bottom out thus never having a mechcanical metal on metal violent bottom out, the rear shock has a dense rubber bump stop limiter, forks do not.Mostly been pulling pedals apart.
Dmr V8's are easy and just pump loads of grease through as no play on bearings.
The V12 mags are easy to pull apart, not worth the cost of a rebuild kit as bearings good but Bushes worn, if I can find some new bushes it might be worth swapping them out. One pedal cage damaged from rock strike and torn out pins.
Deep cleaning, packed with grease and ready for more hits :) -
Right leg same again.
Had 170cc of dirty oil out of each leg which is good as both legs equal and bad as the notes I have start at 190cc for 55-80kg and 195cc for 80kg upward riders.
Had a quick flush with 50cc of clean then topped up with 190cc in both legs.
I have about 20ml oil left from the 500 I got, so can add more if needed which I doubt if both have been running a 170.Now have a base line to start with.
All waste oil collected and transferred to a gallon oil container to take to the tip.
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Left leg.
Cap off.
Spacer out.
Spring out.
Invert and drain oil out into container.
Roller painting trays make great catch pans. -
Have stored the bike was upside down some crap has dropped and stayed on the cap.
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Top cap covers off and slot in cassette lock ring tool to undo cap.
Neat bit of thinking to use an available tool standard.
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A poke about and freshen up for the fork.
7.5wt Oil.
Accurate measure.
Big spanner.
Cassette lock ring tool.
Fork manual.
Blue roll.Going to whip off the top caps one at a time. Drain a leg of oil, and a spring and spacer should drop out.
I think there is too much oil already so see what colour and how much comes out.
Then add fresh oil at the lower amount as it's easier to add more than remove small amount.Fork against radiator at the moment as warmer oil flows easier.
Not doing a full tear down as manual not printed out and might need a special socket to remove foot nuts. As these forks are fairly basic inside there is nothing to play with as compression is fixed and not a tuneable shim stack that user serviceable.
The Sturmy Archer and Shimano freewheel i have are 10mm thread depth, and 16-18mm overall thickness.
The Fixed sprockets i have are 6mm thread depth, and around 6.9mm overall thickness.
Your ruler is out if thats the same :)