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sorry rant over
Don't be! It's all good info.
I want to restrict the adjustment to one degree of freedom at each point so that you can position everything independently. It's all theory at the moment though as I haven't finished designing the jig, let alone built a frame...
Here's the pic I posted in your thread, and it hasn't moved on from there yet.
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The biggest issue you'll have is validating alignment once it is built
Do you mean the frame or the jig? I'm puzzling over what adjustment I need to build into my jig design to bring everything into alignment before loading the tubes. I suspect that having a fixed feature (probably the bottom of the head tube) and then threaded lateral adjustment for the BB, seat tube top and rear axle will the best way to handle it.
That then got me thinking about making tube blocks for mitring on my lathe, and how I might make and fixture those...
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is this for corrosion resistance?
Probably. I doubt that the parts will be ground - turned from bar stock with flats milled on the sides, maybe? The surface finish requirement is probably to make sure they get hand sanded after machining so they look nice.
I reckon +/- 0.05” (0.13mm) on the length is probably about right for parting off on a manual lathe with no second-op machining.
I’m not sure you can do this. The US and ISO layouts are quite different in terms of key shape and switch position. Plus you need to find low profile keycaps.
You could change the keyboard type to US in your OS when you’re using the Keychron.