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Any time.
If you just want a flat/solid single colour gloss finish on steel/aluminium, you're always better with a powdercoater (who knows what they're doing). powder is far tougher than wet-spray products.
If you're looking for fruiter stuff like metallics etc AND you have carbon forks then wet-spraying is your guy.
Cole and Quinntessential are two wholly separate things.
Cole Coatings Workshop is Dan and myself.
We work on anything that we can fit in the booth but based on our job commitments, we're only painting things we've designed; we don't have time for much else sadly.Quinntessential is Paul Quinn, former Cole Coatings Workshop apprentice.
I also work on Paul's designs, customer comms, polishing, detailing, airbrushing etc.Both use the same space but Paul is there full time so he can tackle more stuff.
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If you're happy to accept that the clearcoat itself contains to anti-corrosion chemicals, then the answer is "yes".
EP or ED coatings are great for protecting steel.
Some brands do it as standard before paint.If you go down the route of having the raw substrate cleared, I'd recommend utilising some kind of brushed effect on the surface of the metal. This will help clean the substrate and remove any contaminants likely to be the root of rusting and it will provide a key or 'tooth' for the product to bond with.
Having a high-polished or even slightly buffed steel frame clearcoated can look great but the product is just sitting on the top and it will flake off if you look at it funny... like all the old cromovelato ones you've seen after a ride or two.
We can also add inks/dyes/candies/flakes to the clearcoat so you can add just the smallest flourish.
If you want to include branding to the design, we'd apply the direct adhesion clear, key it, airbrush the graphics on, then clear and polish it as normal.
At the minute, Cole Coatings Workshop is only painting our own designs a few times a year because Dan and I have have other commitments but to have Paul at Quinntessential do it for you, it'd be £150 flat if the bike arrived in the condition you'd like it to be preserved in.
If I'm not mistaken, some powdercoaters might be willing to give you a clear powder direct to the steel, it would be potentially cheaper but this might not strictly be 100% clear and could look a bit nicotine stained in appearance.
Hope that helps.
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How much coverage are you looking for?
Harder makes an XL which has a .6 nozzle.
After that, have a look at the SATA Dekor which comes with a .8 as standard I think.Pressure aside, if you don't have the tank capacity, you're fighting a losing battle.
You can get almost anything done on a bike with a decent midi gun.
Some painters will be strict devilbis users, others will die fighting for SATA and then there are weird Iwata people... you'll be fine with something from Sealey if your product and prep is good. Your gun should have a .8-1.2 needle and nozzle combination with the smaller working for most basecoats and the larger end being better for UHS, primers or clear. -
https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/#/dear-susan-hooptie/
This isn't something you should do.
There are limitations with the products and the bonds.
Instead, you use a clearcoat direct to the steel and treat it as a primer and apply the fade over the top.You CAN fade with clearcoats but fading requires you to be sparing with the product and in doing so, you aren't getting the right coverage and the paint will chip off.
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Just use regular sign vinyl.
Opt for an "economy" vinyl... it will be thinner.
Blast a heatgun or hairdryer over it and it'll soften and shrink onto the factory finish better than straight slapping a sticker on there.As much as we might say "decals" they're all still stickers and you'll still see and feel that they're stickers. Even the top online sellers with exclusive licenses for old brands and such are still providing stickers... thin as they are, they'll never appear flat under a clearcoat without additional work and even in that case, they'll represent a weak point in the layers and they'll be prone to chipping off.
Waterslides or dry-rub transfers will get you the smoothest appearance but the application is a bit tricker but custom ones are EXPENSIVE. 4D Modelshop is where I buy custom graphics when paint ing simply won't give the level of detail I need.
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If you paint matte, best practice is to apply gloss first anyway.
Matte clear isn't as strong as gloss... it has a chemical accelerant in it which forces it to cure faster, preventing it from forming that glassy skin you get with gloss.Get the gloss on there, allow it to part cure for a few days, then wet-flat it at 500-800 grit (depending on your confidence) and then get the matte over the top. the matte will land flatter and look cleaner overall.
In my humble opinion, matt is almost never worth it if you actually intend to use your bike.
Matte can't be de-nibbed very well whilst refinishing so you can end up with greater surface inclusion and it can't be polished if you scratch it. If you get thigh rub or you have any kind of luggage rubbing on a matte finish, it will actually buff it up.A good budget way to get a non-gloss finish without re-clearing is to throw a few quid at something like Rupes wetflatting discs or 3m Trizact at 3000-6000 grit and use that very wet, with a soft interface pad all-over the bike. It will dull off the sheen enough to give you the matte effect without having to re-clear it.
In terms of pairing different types of products together, try wherever you can to use products designed to work together. The solvents will interact in order to give an optimal chemical bond. There are many exceptions to these rules but if you don't know them, play safe.
Having the finish LOOK good is only one part of it... what's the point in having a five-colour airbrushed graphic under matte clear if you're going to scratch it in a day?
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I'll take the Alpina fork if it's still going please?
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Rusty bike.
Wide bars.
Mission Workshop on a front rack?
Me.Hai!
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SE22 - Dulwich.
Drop me an email.
colecoatingsworkshop AT gmail DOT com
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I've only just seen this... did you sort it?
If not, you can bring it to me at the workshop and I'll take it off for you.
Fixie hipster wannabe.
Paint and refinishing.
http://www.colecoatingsworkshop.com