Along with this:
I use a Sealey HVLP736 touch-up gun for my frame spraying. I'm sure there are better (and much more expensive) small spray guns out there (SATA and DeVilbiss for example) but that works well enough for me. Other things you'll need:
Pressure regulator for the gun
Mixing pots and stirrers
Thinners, gun wash and panel wipe
Respirator (preferably positive pressure if you're using 2k)
Some form of fume extraction
Some halogen spots are also handy for speeding up the drying time.
I can add a little to this I think...
SATA/Devilbiss/IWATA guns are worlds apart from any tool you can get from Screwfix etc and they will show differences in the quality of the work that even a novice can spot. Obviously, they aren't in everyone's budget. If you're patient, a SATA minijet can be grabbed for £100-£150 on eBay; it'll need cleaning and servicing and this will help you understand the gun maintenance and upkeep from the get go. The Devilbiss SRi is also a great option at the same level, again second hand for £80-£100.
This more costly gun might seem somewhat prohibitive but it will come with a couple of key benefits that make it worth the investment.
1 - Exploded diagrams are available so you can mend and re-build these tools. They will also show you the names of every replacement part as and when they wear out. This can make a 2nd hand tool a good option.
2 - There are a great many accessories made for bigger brand named guns which aren't always available for entry-level tools. One huge option is the potential for replacing the gravity fed lid and liner cup system. Sata has RPS, Devilbiss has DeKup and then there's 3m's own system called PPS, which has been aped by many and can be bought cheaply. If you opt for the 3m system, you buy an adapter for almost any name-brand gun.
The cup systems are great because...
- They remove the need for a consumable in the form of a mixing cup. Cheaper and better for the environment.
- They remove the need for a consumable in the form of a filter. Cheaper and better for the environment.
- They remove the need for an additional storage vessel for leftover paint. Again, cheaper and better for the environment.
- They allow for accurate colour matching on repairs because you're using the exact same blends of product.
- Cup systems are sealed which allows you to paint and any angle, even upside down... your finishes will matter-of-factually be visibly better for this feature alone.
- Cleaning is much easier and smaller solvent quantities are used. Cheaper and better for the environment.
- You can hot-swap between colour products allowing you to use fewer guns... can make your tooling setup more cost-effective.
Where guns are concerned, I'd recommend a minimum of three to ensure quality finishes. One cheapo gun for primer... primer will be worked with abrasives before colour is added so it doesn't matter if your gun is a bit shit... all primer goofs can be remedied but base and clear are trickier.
Use an epoxy primer if you can... it will build high and forgive poor quality substrates, it has excellent anti-corrosion properties and can be applied to almost all substrate materials. A further benefit is that it has a viscosity that makes it similar in application style to a clearcoat... this means every time you prime, you're sort-of getting clearcoat practice and this is invaluable because clearcoat takes no prisoners.
Next, you should have a dedicated basecoat gun. this is because epoxy has hardener in it so if your gun isn't cleaned properly, you can contaminate your colour work. Basecoat has no hardener in it and is easier to rinse through.
Finally, you you should have a dedicate clearcoat gun. You should keep it separate from all other guns and never use it for anything other than clear. Never lend it to anyone etc
Now obviously, you can have one gun and clean it thoroughly at every stage but if you value your time, this isn't advisable.
Needle and nozzles will come in a whole bunch of sizes and product data sheets will recommend far larger nozzles than those you'll need on bikes. 1.0 or 1.2 is sufficient.
Its frowned upon but if you aren't colour matching, you can get away with using gun wash (recycled thinner) instead of premium basecoat thinner. Lots cheaper.
Buy the best panel wipe you can afford.
Quality tape and safe storage.
If you're in London, get PPG Deltron basecoat from Stockwell.
Its the best.
Don't mess with 2k if you're a novice... it's quite limiting.
Get a quick-release coupler for all your guns and airline.
Make sure there's a filter and pressure control on your compressor AND your gun - unless you've got a top-end compressor with refrigeration.
UV lamps are great, as are ovens but natural curing is better in almost every instance so just a safe place to hang your wet work is good.
Wet the floor for clearcoat... keeps dust down.
For what it's worth, you can pay for a course and come to learn refinishing at our workshop. It will give you all you need to know to get professional results. Lots f brands now paint in-house after having learned with us. We also sell packages of enough 'stuff' to paint a bike start to finish... it can be pricey buying a gallon of thinners only to use 50ml.
If you come on a course and you can demonstrate you're not a twat, you can hire our booth for £100 a day and get top quality results.
Blah blah blah...
Come to this thread and ask questions.
People know what they're talking about here.