Most recent activity
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Work in progress from a Quirk that's in at the minute.
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Solid work mate.
Looks rad.
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He's right...
Wheels/Dummy Axles + Lasers... https://www.instagram.com/p/BNJuLaQAkkT/?taken-by=colecoatingsworkshop
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What?!
That's amazing.
You should be telling US how to apply products!Good luck. I'm super keen to see this project.
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To be frank, this isn't a project we'd undertake because it's quite honestly easier to do the whole thing again from the beginning!
You have a few hurdles to overcome.
First would be product compatibility. Not all clearcoats will work on all basecoats... the solvents need to work together for good chemical adhesion. I couldn't guess which products would work. Some could even damage the original finish.
Second is your colour match... the orange is translucent in order that the silver beneath it reflects light back through it. Orange on silver is very different to orange on orange. No matter how well you colour match the product, you'll very likely just see patchy repairs.
If you do manage to get a blend of the colours that you're happy with, you'll likely find that the newer modern products you've used won't age and fade like the older parts of the finish so in a short time, you might see the repairs stand out even more.
For the most part, base coats and clearcoats have no anti corrosion properties so you'll be creating a barrier seal rather than preventing further rust and such.
Your basecoat products might struggle to adhere to the older product on the bike. A surface key will be helpful but it may simply scratch and peel off.
If I were to buy a mid priced airbrush for home use with easily sourced spares and basic functionality I'd opt for a NEO for IWATA. Gravity fed. We use high end SATA brushes a lot but for daily use but these £60-£70 ones are great for the price. A .35 nozzle/needle setup is a decent all rounder.
For clearcoat you'd need a bigger set up. I can't think of a time when we'd put clear coat through an airbrush for a bike... it would be too little product for us to work afterwards in the getting and polishing stages.
Multiple spot repairs on the substrate you've got is of course possible but I wouldn't recommend it as a DIY project unless you'd done a few others.
Hopefully that's useful information.
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No problem.
What's the ultimate intention?
Make the whole thing the same shade of orange and then seal it under a clearcoat? -
Toby just put these shots up.
There is a fade there... really there is...
Full gallery here - https://colecoatingsworkshop.com/#/toad-blue-on-blue/ -
Depends on a few factors but anywhere from £150-£300 for a frame.
£60-£90 for a fork.That's with Allenchrome, not some guy in a railway arch.
Once they've finished with your frame, then it would come to us and we'd start our processes.
Where thickness is concerned, candies are made darker through building up layers so the required shade will dictate the amount of product needed to some extent. The ultimate goal on any project at our shop is to apply as little product as possible, for numerous boring technical reasons so maintaining crisp shorelines is a fairly standard task.
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Yeah you're right.
I probably could!Great looking frame man.
Really good.Just skimmed your album.
There's some corrosion around the BB and headtube... so to bring it back FULLY to it's original state, I'd have it re-chromed at Allen Chrome. Were the rust not present, you could simply remove the current finish with paint stripper.
Once it's done you could bring it here and we'd apply the orange colour candy over the top, then a clearcoat (we tend not to mask directly on candies), then we'd wet flat the frame, apply the white graphics and flood-fills and re-clear. After an appropriate curing period we'd polish the whole thing.
That's quite an expensive process in the grand scheme of things - two clearcoats isn't necessarily standard in a finish and then the re-chroming costs a few bob.
To get close and keep the cost down, you could have the whole lot blasted, painted silver and then have the candy on top of that. You'd get something more like this...
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There are a bunch of options and they are probably dictated by your workshop space to some extent.
If you look at some of the videos of Spray.Bike users, many simply hang a frame by a wire or cord and move it around and deal with the potential obstacle of the string.
If you need it to be static for graphic application and such you can try either of these...
Park Tools (used to) make a really great tool that made gripping a frame in a stand quite easy but they've become a little expensive.
You can use something like this in your seat tube and then hold it in your stand.
Having a work stand that can articulate means you can flip and rotate the bike as you need to because of course, spray cans don't work at every angle.
Fixie hipster wannabe.
Paint and refinishing.
http://www.colecoatingsworkshop.com