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seager

Member since Oct 2012 • Last active May 2022

Most recent activity

  • in General
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    Lol - wrong thread, think this is supposed to be in the news one.

    You should leave it up though obvs.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Lost it on penalties, couldn’t have been a better result though.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    I’m away at a stag do at the moment and there’s a lovely old deaf cat there.

    Completely chill round 16 strangers playing keepy-uppy.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Both sound like solid ideas (as I have no idea!). Cheers for the advice though - maybe I'm making a lot of fuss over nothing.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    How many more mounts could you want on top of the 505?
    Think I've got space for 6 bottles plus guards and rear rack on mine,

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    Sorry - I was pondering how deep into the block and beam I could channel for UFH before it goes incredibly… unwise.

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    I did see somewhere that cut ugh channels into a concrete slab to keep the floor the sameish height, but not sure that assures structural strength with a block and beam floor.

    I’ve not got a way of measuring the floor thiccccness at the moment to help with that.

    Any idea how much height ufh + screed adds to a floor?

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    It looks like it was screeded before the current tiles were put down if that's what you're asking? I was sort of hoping to avoid a step up to prevent for 'flow' and having to increase the height of the door as well, but I guess you can't win them all!

    The FiL did wonder about replacing the floor as well, similar to your block replacement suggestion, but would probably be beyond our price scope. I'm hesitant to even start looking at quotes knowing I'll have to start compromising right out of the gate.

    So loose idea would be to end up take the kitchen out, lift the floor and insulate to 150-170mm, increase the height of doors and start afresh with a new floor for the kitchen, and then go from there?

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    We've got a kitchen at the rear of our house with a suspended concrete block and beam floor which is basically a heat sink. Makes the whole room freezing, especially with the tiles on the floor in there. Part time problem solve is to chuck a big sort of run down in there.

    We'll be looking at redoing the room this year (hopefully not for 40k).

    Whats the consensus about how to tackle this? Are we doomed to have to chuck a load of insulation onto the floor when we get round to it, and have a step up into the room? Or is there a slimmer way to insulate from the floor up?

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Some dimmer switches have a way of setting the range of brightness that you can have on the switch. For example, from 30-100%. So you could have reset this range from 0-100% inadvertently

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