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ffm

Member since Jun 2012 • Last active Jan 2017

Most recent activity

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    That looks absolutely pin sharp! Very nice. I think your wall looks substantially more solid than mine. I'm worried that if I were to drill down only 120mm, mount the post and then lean on it to try to straighten it, there's a fair chance that I'd just tear the top 2 courses of bricks off. Having said that, there is one place that I can't get to the face of the wall easily as it's behind my shed, so I may try out that approach for that one post.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Anyone have a recommendation for a plumber to install a radiator in London? The pipework is already there, but needs to be moved slightly to re-centre for a new width radiator.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    The wall is between 120 and 80 cm high (it's a level wall on a slightly sloping garden). Although it's single-skinned it has buttresses every couple of metres. It already has a 90cm fence on top (60cm solid panel with cane screening above) which is fixed in the method I described. I'm just fitting new posts because the new panels are different sizes (1800mm vs 5ft). Sinking the posts into the ground would be ideal, but it's not really feasible because some of them would be going into flowerbed, while others would be onto a granite patio.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Apologies, I know it's not what you asked.

    That's alright, I genuinely do appreciate the suggestion and it's got me thinking. I'm not familiar with epoxy cement, do you have a link? Roughly how much rod did you put into the wall and the post and how high were the posts?

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Interesting option. I don't think I'd trust myself to get the hole in the wall vertical and the hole in the timber axial so that it actually ends up vertical. The wall also has a rounded covering of mortar (flaunching?) at the top, so I'd have to hack that off to get a flat surface to mount the post onto, and even once it's gone the surface probably wouldn't be flat because the bricks are old.

    My question was really about how far into the substrate you need masonry screws to go to get a decent fixing.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Some advice on fencing would be appreciated. I'm mounting a fence to a single-skin brick wall (so 100mm) thick. I'm planning on bolting 75mm timbers to the side of the wall (500mm below and 900mm above the top of the wall) and then attaching a further 75mm timber (1000mm high) to the side of that so it sits on top of the wall. The fence panels will be attached between the timbers on top of the wall.

    For fixing the timbers to the walls I was planning on using 120mm flange-headed, masonry screws (like thunderbolts) and counterboring the hole so that the bolt head sits below the surface of the timber. Since the bricks may be troublesome (old yellow London stock with hard inclusions), I may have to use sleeve anchors if any of the masonry screws fail.

    For attaching the timbers to each other I was planning on using 100mm flange-headed timber screws, similarly counterbored.

    Does that sound solid? Any recomendations for specific brands of these things?

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Cheers @BobbyBriggs that's useful. The alcoves are empty so I'll be building both the cupboards and bookshelves on top. Unfortunately the alcoves are only about 600mm wide x 300mm deep so there's not really any room to lose. There's a 1600mm wide chimney breast between them, which I'm not planning on doing anything with, so there will always be a bit of noise. It's not a massive problem, just the occasional clunk from their wardrobes closing. I'm really just wondering whether this is an opportunity to add an extra layer and whether adding sound deadening material to the cupboard backs would be any better than just leaving them bare.

    I'll leave a small air gap behind the cupboards which should help a bit, but they will be mounted on bare floorboards (the rest of the room is carpeted). Is it worth mounting them on something to isolate them from the floor?

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    I'm installing some alcove cupboards, with bookcases above, in our bedroom against a party wall. Is it worth adding some soundproofing material to the backs of them (which will be 6mm MDF)? I'm thinking about using the type of sound deadening material often used in vans.

  • in Wanted Adverts
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    I'm after a chainring for a 1x9 setup i.e., no ramps/short teeth and 3/32", not 1/8", 130mm BCD, somewhere between 40 and 44 teeth. Colour's not important, I'd prefer something in decent condition, but cheap as possible please as this is for an experimental setup.

    Watchu got?

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