Avatar for sifriday

sifriday

Member since Jun 2012 • Last active Jan 2021
  • 22 conversations
  • 596 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Current Projects (non-bike)
    Avatar for sifriday

    After a little brexit dividend, where Cladco's stock of what we'd ordered (Anthacite 13/3 7mm plastisol-coated) got stuck in a container somewhere, they kindly found us some Graphite Grey in the Prelaq-Mica finish and covered the extra cost themselves, but then the usual Christmas delays, and finally after all that, it arrived this week. I got started today, here's a pic from the back corner of the first sheet up.

  • in Bikes & Bits
    Avatar for sifriday

    Yep, two bikes with 11-42 9sp suntour cassettes, one with an alivio a bit older than that which looks a bit different (older style cable routing) and one with an old deore that looks very similar to that m4000.

  • in Rides & Races
    Avatar for sifriday

    I have ridden it a few times recently in both directions, once on a road bike with 30mm tyres and otherwise on my tourer with 40mm WTB nano tyres. As you head up out of Whaley the tarmac runs up to White Hall. From there it is gravel with a ribbon of broken tarmac down the middle up to the top. There's then about 300m that's quite cut up / rutted / muddy from water running down the road (circled on map attached, this pretty much lines up with the blue arrow above) before you rejoin tarmac just below the marked reservoir. I rolled down that slowly on the road bike, the tourer enjoyed it a bit more. As said above because of this it is nicer going towards Buxton, but in the other direction it is doable too. And well worth it to dodge Long Hill itself. I use it to get from New Mills over to Buxton to head into the White Peak so I have mostly ridden it in summer, once in winter. This dodgy section obviously wetter/muddier in winter but it does not seem too horrendous round here at the moment.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
    Avatar for sifriday

    If it is any help, I bought these the year before last:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLOORBOARD-SL­IVERS-SMALL-TO-LARGE-GAP-FILLER-FOR-WOOD­-FLOORS-RECLAIMED-PINE/184345948674?hash­=item2aebdff202:g:jW8AAOSwrklVC~q9

    First and only time I have done it so I have nothing to compare it to, but they certainly did the job. They sanded up quite light, about the same colour as the few bits of epoxy filler we also used in other places, so a bit lighter than the floor.

    I lacked the skill to chisel them flat, the chisel kept diving into the floorboards on either side and making a gouge. I managed to do it with a multitool cutter in the end.

    Just while I am here, Cupcakes we also sanded the floor after ourselves doing those repairs. We found the same thing - most decorators did not want to do it anymore and the few that did were booked up. If it is any inspiration I found it much more straightforward than many reports on the web suggest. My partner had done it once before so she did the edge sanding, which was definitely harder as others have mentioned above. I did the big drum sander and it was very straightforward, the thing about leaving bigs dents by mistake just did not seem a problem. It generated nowhere near as much dust as suggested. That was from a fairly thorough go at it, sanding off a fair bit of material to level out uneven boards & to shift old residues of the black gunk around the margins. A sheet duct-taped around the door kept the rest of the house dust free.

  • in Current Projects (non-bike)
    Avatar for sifriday

    Thanks! This is great advice. Some replanning happening here...

    Lightweight battens, horizontal only, for vertical efficiency win

    We were going to get the 32/1000 box profile. I had just assumed the corrugated one would be taller, like agricultural sheets. But 18mm!! More vertical efficiency winning. We'll now use that. (Plus, it looks a bit similar to the wavy concrete tiles the houses in our estate have, plusplus my partner is a kiwi by descent and corrugated roofs are in her blood)

    And we are now going to clad the window-less sides that abut the boundary fence and the garage with the same stuff. I was put off cutting the angle for the side eaves, but I am now up for giving it a go, having read your posts. It has obvious cost/time benefits over wood cladding.

    The garden and house side will then still get wood cladding, which we will leave to fade to grey-ish to sort-of match the house a bit (60s yellow brick). We've already ordered white windows to also match the house. If we deployed cladco+black windows on those sides too we're worried we'd end up with an architectural masterpiece like yours and we'd regret buying our actual house and end up just living in the shed! These sides have windows, so with the cost savings from doing the other 2 sides in cladco, we can hopefully find and afford a nice hardwood cladding (drove off today to admire a shed I had seen in passing, and found the owner outside, it turned out to be oak so quite tempted by that)

  • in Current Projects (non-bike)
    Avatar for sifriday

    Thanks for these thoughts, righto, to be fair to cladco, they spec just 50mm wide, and do not mention depth:
    https://www.cladco.co.uk/how-install-you­r-roofing-sheets

    I read a PDF on PlanWell's website (similar company and products) that the horizontal battens/purlins should be at least 50mm square:
    https://planwell.co.uk/core_files/fixing­_guide.pdf

    I then took that plus pics of people building massive barns and ended up with this concern that I needed 2x4!

    This is one of the articles I read about the water build up issue with just horizontal battens on a low pitch roof (ours is 1 in 20), advocating the vertical cross-battens for a drainage channel:
    https://rcimag.co.uk/sandtoft-blog/const­ruct-watertight-low-pitch-roof-part-1

    But I am glad to hear your thoughts that counter-battening is not needed. After all people use this metal roof as a single skin, so it cannot be that damp under it. And we keep telling ourselves this is a shed not a house - when learning what to do from internet blogs/videos I do get drawn down the path of full-on house construction but lack the experience to know when that is overkill.

    So if I use 2"x1" battens - 50mmx25mm - plus an 11mm OSB roof sheeting then that is 36mm. Cladco's shortest screw is 32mm (and I am assuming that is thread length, not the total length) and that would screw into the OSB but not through

    But, without counter-battens, I think there is just enough height to use something like 50mmx38mm then the screw does not go through into the OSB, which seems helpful in case of a slight leak around a fixing head?

  • in Current Projects (non-bike)
    Avatar for sifriday

    oh and having read what you said about planning permission - really wish we'd seen that first and given it a go. Just an extra 20 or 30 cm of height would have been very helpful.

  • in Current Projects (non-bike)
    Avatar for sifriday

    I am midway through something similar and am poised with a quote from Cladco for roofing, but am unsure about a couple of details, then I stumbled across this last night, can I tap into your experience and ask you for some insights? My roof so far is the same as yours: rafter -> 11mm OSB -> membrane.

    How big were your purlins? I have to keep under the 2.5m height and it is getting tight. Installation guides for metal roofing often seem to use 2"x4" purlins but I am wondering about 2"x1" to save some height. Yours look like they might be on the smaller side too?

    Did you think about counter battening under the purlins for the drainage channels down the roof? I can see the logic of this, but it adds height, whereas surely there is not that much water going to get under the roof such that it'll pool up against a purlin.

    When a Cladco fixing screw says it is 45mm is that the total length of the screw, or the length of the thread under the washer & head? Like you I am trying to work out how to make sure I don't screw through into the interior, I can see why using massive purlins in appealing here for a big margin for error.

    Great write up, I enjoyed the details, lots to learn from, and it is a really slick result.

  • in Classifieds
    Avatar for sifriday

    I bought some shoes from Bike24, they did not fit, so I posted them back to.... er, BikeDiscount. When my refund email did not appear I contacted Bike24, who worked it out for me and told me what I'd done. I then contacted BikeDiscount, who managed to find this random parcel and send it back to me - for no charge. So it turns out that I'd worried about buying from German shops because of the potential returns hassle with overseas postage, but the only weak link seems to be me, whereas both shops have been great at sorting it out.

Actions