10 years coal mining, 25 years teaching, 10 years Head of Faculty, now retired...
Most recent activity
I'd try the auger - Shropshire clay is heavy enough to bend a cheap (i.e. my) post hole spade (blades not hefty enough for the leverage afforded by long handles) but an auger can be used to take a smaller amount at a time, remove and clean as soon as it gets hard work. Just remember clay is not like wood or loose soil - the 'shavings' will re-form behind the bit!
We've had much the same - some guy apparently arrived in the middle of the working day without notice, and left a similar card at every address he couldn't access and inspect. Crappy phone pic shows what he was looking for. FWIW we've assumed ours is ok and ignored the card - the chap that does our gas appliance servicing has since said it's acceptable.
The bolt / screw thing used to be (back in the 70s when I was an apprentice) heads that were hex (spanner) or slot (screwdriver) respectively, with machine screws often being threaded full length and bolts having a plain shank, but this was never a hard and fast distinction.
Google image search for 'm6 30mm socket cap' gives more full length threads than not - I guess it depends on your supplier as much as anything?
Was there last summer - the hotel does quite a good lunch compared with last time (about 30 years ago, pre Hinterland)
Vale of Rheidol Railway is fun if you can avoid the school holidays.
I think acrylics can be challenging if you're dry sanding - heat builds up quickly, the polymer softens and this leads to clogging - wet sanding works better but takes longer and can introduce other issues such as contamination and adequate drying before the next coat.
I suspect for TV they're looking for a quick surface prep before overpainting - just enough paint to look good. Some years ago I saw a program presented by Suggs, restoring a 1930s steam crane at Blists Hill (local to me) - it looked good on the telly, but was quite poor in real life and had major corrosion issues within a few months.
Paragon Paints look ok - their painting advice page makes sense to me. Personally I'd be brushing rather than spraying, but I'd be looking for a decent thickness of paint and I've spent too much time cleaning air brushes and spray guns after students have abused them, so maybe I'm biased. Zinc primers are generally a good thing...
I suspect the car 'restoration' presenters are concerned about paint incompatibility - either making an irretrievable mess on TV, or if they are serious about the restoration, generating a possible problem for any future owner.
It used to be easy with old metal things in need of restoration - most paint was either cellulose based (old) or oil based (probably older still) and even if you mistakenly used one type on top of the other there was a 50-50 chance it would still be ok.
Paint made in this century is a different game completely - you probably need to have a detailed conversation with your mate to be sure you don't use anything incompatible with his preferred materials if he's going to re-paint it later. Even then, if you leave it too long there could be changes in formulation that cause problems, as with Finnigans Smoothrite - it used to need a specific solvent (trichloroethylene if memory serves), but now it is environmentally friendly and doesn't work.
Not entirely: the hedgehogs are nocturnal and I'm finding slugs during daylight hours, hence the non-chemical and highly selective approach. To be fair, I see more hedgehog crap in the garden than actual hedgehogs. I choose to believe they're eating the half slugs I leave for them in addition to crapping on the lawn.
We also have hedgehogs in the garden, so chemicals are out of the question since the remains are usually eaten.
Not by me in case there's any doubt.
Must be a pair reserved for just slugs.
Be prepared for odd looks from the neighbours.