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mankkis

Member since Jan 2012 • Last active Nov 2022
  • 3 conversations
  • 135 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Custom rack stays are already a good start and I've seen some more and less creative solutions to full racks made without welding or brazing. Good luck!

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Something specific you're interested in? I've been using a Oxy/MAPP-gas setup for five years now, mostly brazing brass but also silver when I can get my hands on some. Good flux will always make brazing easier and acetone is good for keeping things clean. I use cheap steel tubing, gas pipe or whatever you want to call it, 10x1 or 8x1mm. Got a cheap Bahco tube bender and the rest is pretty much filing and sanding. A proper vice is a must and is one of the best tools you can have.
    Best tip is to watch some videos to get some basic technique and then just get going. The learning curve is very steep and it just gets easier with every rack. It's not like you're making a frame so you can't mess things up too bad.

    I'm not very good at documenting my work any more but I have some random pics in a separate Flickr-album.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Yeah, first thing I did was go to a store that tints spray paints and bought a can with quite a decent match. Those white details around the dropouts are a real turnoff for me too. Just looks so much better this way.

    The rack is custom, made by me once again. Just a quick platform for the basket as I don't like the Wald hardware. More stable bracket for the front light too.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Thanks for the kind words.

    @nogk: The stem is a Zoom steel stem.

    @Josh: Can't take all the credit as the Pelago 45mm fenders are quite a good starting place. Good radius for the 35mm Paselas. Yes, they did require drilling and some faffing but good quality aluminium fenders.

    @MisterMikkel: The toe overlap came as a surprise but I hope it won't be as bad with size 4 shoes as it was when I nearly crashed clipping the front mudguard with size 10 hiking boots :D
    The new owner seemed very pleased she won't have to commute on her mountain bike this coming winter, not to mention retiring her nackered old Miyata.
    She says 40mm studs is borderline during the winter, anything bigger just slows her down B-)

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Here's my partners new do-it-all-bike. Mostly parts bin but decided to complement the build with a few new shiny bits as well.

    You can find some detailed snaps on my Flickr

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    M550's are nice too, more rounded like a 7600 crank. M560's have that bent crank arm that is good for pairing with wide chainstays but look, well, bent. But M730's are just the nicest IMO.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Fake news! Cranks are Deore XT M730. Had to grind them down quite a bit, I guess snakestays are too expensive in this price class. And before your knickers get in the proverbial twist I've since switched out the 118mm bb for one with a 123mm axle. Slightly better lebensraum and doesn't hit the chainstays under power.

    The transition from ramps to hoods feels quite alright now but I must admit I haven't had time to ride anything longer than a day with the Sutra this year so not enough time for any misplacement to properly annoy me. The Butanos are otherwise great handlebars but suffer from the same problem all modern compact bars do, that short reach. Cannot fathom a reach of ~70mm, hands are so cramped on the ramps. I feel that your suggestion of bdhu would only shorten the reach but I promise I'll give it a go.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Thread needs more big tyres.
    Switched the 2.6" Mezcals for some 2.8" Rangers and finished a new front rack. Quite pleased with this one right now.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    I would cold set the rear to 130mm so I could fit a regular road hub. Probably something like a Shimano RS400 so I could swap out the narrow qr-axle for a wider track axle and use track nuts. Wouldn't want that rear axle to slip because of a quick release.
    I'd also braze on a derailleur hanger and some cable guides/stops. Maybe even a tiny piece of steel or brass tube to act as a brake cable guide at the seattube instead of the Kona clamp guide.

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