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I love Josh Cohen's Radiohead pieces.
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If the gold is in the form of coins and trinkets then there'll be some packing factor as well, and so 20-40% (?) of the volume will be air.
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I think there's a little scratch on the inside of a curve. But no scratches near the clamp. I did a combination of tricks involving coins and a little flat head screwdriver to open the clamp.
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Very useful, thanks.
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@MCamb and @withered_preacher thanks yeah I guess I'll go hunting for second hand touring bikes.
I'd love a mixte tourer frame in 531/equivalent. Just really hard to find in my size (59-60cm). Might just put a wanted ad up anyway.
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for style reasons
I am not cool enough to consider such things. I just want a bike I can ride while looking straight ahead, sat upright. All dignified, like.
±1"
There's probably 3" (7.5cm for the rest of us) difference in top tube length between a large MTB frame and a large road frame, placing the swept back bars either 7.5 cm further/closer depending on that choice. Surely one choice must be preferable to the other. I'm just not sure how to work that out. I guess I might just have to go try some Raleigh Sports type bikes and make a load of measurements.
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Ok I take your point about tyres. I'll choose some zippy ones. But I think that's maybe 50% of the zip. Low rotational mass (nice rims) and effective brakes are gonna add significant zip.
What do you mean by particular conceit on the fit geometry?
Edit: Did you mean concept?I suspect I'd need a longer TT than on my road bike. Should I maybe look at MTB frames?
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I am trying to select a frame to build a lightweight town bike. Upright riding position.
Something that rides and looks like this:
....but a really zippy version. So decent tubing, light wheels, excellent brakes.
Would a lightweight cyclocross frame be a bad start? Wrong angles maybe?
Also if I take a 58cm TT on a race bike, what TT do I need on a town bike with swept-back bars?
groupset £185
wheels £65