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Bobbo

Member since Apr 2011 • Last active Oct 2020

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    If you're vegan it's no go as hide glue (even the modern stuff) like almost all traditional glue is made from boiled bits of dead animal I'm afraid.

    Also it's not really appropriate for what you would be using it for as condensation would eventually cause the glue to fail.

    I'd out a thin bead of glazing putty either traditional linseed oil ones or modern mastic tube stuff. Behind the bead and then fix the beads with panel pins.

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    Sorry for the late reply. Hide glue would do the job the ready mix bottles do have a short shelf life though, you can get the traditional stuff but you need a double boiler and it's messy and smelly.

    From the bottle it's applied like pva and holds as well for as long as needed but unlike pva the bond can be reversed with the application of steam.

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    I'd test a little bit first before you go sploshing osmo all over. It looks to me (from the photos at least) to be more of a matte lacquer finish if so a hard wax repair kit would sort it. It's something I keep in my van for instances like this; fuck ups happen no matter how careful you or people you employ are. The best thing is that it's made to match natural wood tones and it's actually easier to repair wood grain than solid colours as small descrepancies in colour are hidden by the natural variation in the the wood grain.

    https://youtu.be/wKWD_4t5bF0

    This is a pretty good guide as to how to use the kit.

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    requisition the grouse moors and rewild them

    That's basically what Anders and Anne Holch Povlsen are doing. 80,000 hectares and counting.

    Careful now... We're getting dangerously close to a debate on the highland clearances with this type of talk.

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    They're highly illegal now on account of their tendancy to release noxious gasses and cause it to rain molten plastic in a house fire.

    Back in the day they were seen as an easy way to insulate rooms.

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    There are few things more cruel to inflict on a period house.

    Fibreglass stone effect cladding?

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    If it's pretty "clean" soil, i.e no chance of hitting tree roots or rubble, then they can be pretty good but will still be prone to grabbing and either hurting you or dragging you round in circles. If they soil isn't clean forget it you will be quicker without it.

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    That's the COSHH disposal system (we put it in a portaloo branded bucket so no one is temped to drink it when they are having a particularly bad day).

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    I stopped worrying about the silica content of wood ages ago. It's the clients call what wood I use on their projects I can try and guide them to a more sensible/cost effective product but at the end of the day once they get an idea in their head..........

    Besides all that the silica content of proper timber makes little difference to modern tct blades (old school hss blades are a different story) and even something like ebony or iron wood that has a massive silica content is not as damaging as MDF or particle board.

    I didn't know that about larch trees being used as a firebreak that's pretty interesting and also surprising. I've used green larch for a couple of jobs recently and when it's green there is so much resin in it that it feels damp and sticky to the touch so I would have thought that it would go up pretty aggressively.

    Anyways was a partial success today cut one sill about 10mm long which threw things out slightly but overall I'm pretty happy with the dry fit. Wall plate sitting on top of the sill for a length comparison.

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