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BrickMan

Member since Oct 2010 • Last active Jan 2020

Most recent activity

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    I know this bike, its very well put together and owner is a nice guy. I think it used to have the 1kw mid drive on it but was put back to a more modest one (police up here are more interested in tackling e-bikes going more than 15.5mph rather than maybe stopping some thieves...).

    Used cargo bikes the price is often not really the problem, its location, I have sold a few used, and honestly as soon as I put it up on a London/Cambridge gumtree (even though we are Glasgow) we get huge interest, and factoring in a courier becomes a non issue.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Cut the ends down on universal ones if you don't want to fracture your skull and put yourself in A+E when you get out of your car and forget they are there.

    Also noisy roof bars, wrap thin (3-5mm) nylon or dyneema (climbers always have this stuff on their person) around them tightly in a spiral, shuts up just about every noisy roof bar ever.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Valve guides, regular old factory sized not oversized, not unicorn spunk spattered, for a very popular engine (almost any VE/VP/PD VAG group diesel of 1.4/1.9/2.5 from 1990 to 2005).
    Unobtainable.
    Why.
    Does no one rebuild engines anymore?
    Could get hold of the right size and spatter type crank + big end bearings, the correct bolts (actually going to 12.9 instead of 10.9 because they be only OK for standard power), gaskets, piston rings, cam shaft, seals everything. But valve guides, really struggling.
    TPS/VAG group parts company I have an account with, they 'CAN' get them, but at £23.xx + VAT each I would just stick with my 260k mile half worn to limit examples. They should be all of £2-4 each. TRW or INA did most of the head components originally.
    Spec sheet says 1.3mm (which is 0.65mm either way of centre) movement at head of valve measured side to side with a DTI is the max. I'm getting 0.5 to 0.7mm (total) across all valves. Valve stems are almost measurably unworn, so just the guides. New they are 0.1 to 0.3mm. Half the reason for the rebuild is wearing cam shaft + oil out of torn exhaust valve stem seals (caused by age, mileage, and possibly a bit too much valve stem movement).
    Anyone had much success with trying to get cylinder head rebuilders to sell the guides supply only?

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Had two 9-3 hot aero in family (older one not the SS) one was remapped by BSR and had a downpipe and something else, 265bhp? Most economical petrol car we've ever had (if driven normal), got up to 46mpg on longer 60 mph A roads. Long term average for it I think was 34 mpg? Mate has a 1.6 focus petrol, thats all that gets lol and it has maybe 90bhp?
    Bulkhead cracking can be stopped if you get a sub frame brace for the front (upper and lower bracing, again BSR/Abbott etc make these things), we only got one of them because price and I think the other was a nightmare to fit, you have to roll the back of the subframe down and take the rack out in order to fit it, maybe dashboard out too. Eventually it cracked and it wasn't in an area that could be cost effectively repaired.
    Don't quote me but I think the 3 door versions suffer from it less, also 2.3 viggen models have a factory lower brace (thin steel tubing but better than nothing).

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    Some can and some can't. honda civic (space ship era) with the 2.2 diesel could barely handly themselves stock, a problem thats been fixed by parts suppliers in time but there is the odd old stock part lying around that will slip and misbehave.

    Forgot about sprung clutchs, diesels make very sharp impulse forces into the driveline, DMF and fancy clutchs alleviate this

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    Go for the full fat 2.3 aero 265, more of a cruiser than absolute speed, soft suspension, ancient dynamics (came out in like 1997? and facelifted beyond hell). Have one in the family, not built as well as old school saabs, but still better than other GM stuff.
    Engine wise rarely ever go wrong, coil pack get the genuine saab one or go home, ALL others will just randomly misfire and half throw a code within weeks/months, experience of saabs for many years, don't skimp on coil pack cassette.
    Rear suspension has pretty crumby little bushs that go fairly often (likely more down to aftermarket parts not being that good). Budget spending a grand in the first year to take care of all the little things.
    Oh gearbox cables/linkage are very sloppy compared to 9-3 and 9-3SS, might not annoy you but the gearboxs suffer as you are on the brink of nearly money shifting it all the time.

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    Some gearboxes /drivelines can take it and its only gonna mildy yank between gears and idle a bit more agriculturally, others cannot take it and it will accelerate the wear in your driveline above what it would with the correct DMF in it.
    Get a DMF if you can afford it, get quality, LUK etc

    My car they use a DMF but they dismember themselves with only a little over stock torque, mines quite a bit more and hoping for even more this year, so SMF or a DMF from an old audi v8 are the only options (£££)

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    Run the fuck away from a 00's allroad, the v6 TDI was an utter dog of an engine, never worked right from new, rest of them look nice but just don't do it to yourself. 5 series that year much more reliable at this age now.
    Alfa 1.9 mjtd are fine, hate the gearbox cables, make it feel like a toy car
    mk5 gti I like but they rust bad, early mk6 is better in every way apart from looks IMO
    e220 cdi are solid enough, check injectors for black death, check it charges and starts OK in all environments. Suspension creaks and groans at the back even when should be perfect lol
    Careful with subaru diesels, I think its 200x to 2011 that they had bad crank shaft issues (like snapping in half), check very carefully, seen some dealers pick them and legacy diesels up cheap because they are about to imminently implode, then sell them for strong 'a revised engine' price, even though the defo are not.

    Can't beat a honda Jazz!

  • in General
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    looks like its inside a cafe area, they will have a license for having their chairs and barriers on the pavement, feel like locking a bike to or inside that is fine. If it was left side ways across a narrow bit of path so that a wheelchair/pram couldn't get past then maybe fair enough, doesn't look like that though.

    Bitch locking, had it happen a few times, thankfully each time an accident on the others behalf. Turns out employers don't really accept 'someone bitch locked me outside morrisons' as a reason for being 30 mins late back from lunch.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    Bike rack /kayak straps are good too, mainly because fast! Some have an elastic element to them (for kayaks) which is ideal for lashing two rigid objects together so they don't rattle.
    Good to see more trade type people using cargo bikes, was in new york a while back and would say the majority of cargo bikes were being used by the trades, no tunnel fee, no parking cost and in some cases you can wheel it right into the building your working in and use the goods lift to take it right to the job site, can't do that with a ford f150

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