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If it's smooth then avoid sanding and use the deglosser, sugar soap is a good start with degreasing but the deglosser kind of etches the surface for the primer.
Sand between coats very lightly. I use a 320 or similar grit soft sanding pad. There are some foam backed sanding pads which come on a roll that are well worth having. They are popular in the auto paint world.
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I've been running actives for 15 years. It came to the studio market quite early. You have to be prepared for the amps to fail from time to time. Class D in confined spaces can generate quite a bit of heat so that can lead to some issues with longevity. Otherwise it's all good, manufacturers can balance the amp and driver and control the cabling between the 2. These days you might look at networkable varieties with dsp because that is the direction actives are going in.
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I listened to some when I was looking for a site radio. I didn't like them at all, just couldn't have listened to them all day.
I got an Audio Pro portable box and it's great in all different rooms and outdoors, I listen to it all day on site without fatigue.
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I hate to say it but no one has ever managed to get me to do it! If I had to I would use Zinsser Universal Degreaser then Krud Kutter Gloss Off or Fossa Grax-It followed by Zinsser 123+ then undercoat and top coat of your choice. Once it's finished try to leave it alone for a week to let the paint properly harden.
Forgot to add that I would use a roller unless you really want a brush pattern and choose the roller carefully because the roller pattern differs wildly. I usually roll the paint on and brush it out but I've 30 years experience so it mostly works out. Painting kitchens well is quite difficult.
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I'm not helping the memes to crack anyone up but he did suffer a terrible motorcycle accident which left him with very serious head injuries so his transformation was not entirely by choice.
I'm sure he would have some stories though.
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If you are thinking that the wall was lined with cork to stop condensation issues then you might be onto something.
I've very rarely seen mould caused by bookcases but I don't doubt it exists in some places.
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It's usually specialised application. Quite useful where there is existing mould like small shower rooms. It's got a slightly odd finish and it's really sticky to paint with.
More details would help but a 'normal' approach to painting woodwork would be primer followed by 2 or 3 top coats of acrylic eggshell. It might suit you to use a couple of coats of Zinnser All Coat though, that's a great paint.
If you have bare wood you will need something that can resist any staining, Zinsser Cover Stain does that. I'm looking for a reliable primer that seals redwood and is moisture vapour permeable but have yet to find one I'd recommend.
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My home-made stands have a bit of tilt built in as I had a pair of stands for smaller speakers that also have a tilt and I liked that. I have a few half baked theories about why which I won't share for fear of embarrassing myself :)
I still manage to use the tops of the speakers for some objects but a plant pot might be a bit too much.
PMC are doing the trapezoid boxes at the moment. I don't like the look so much. I like the last one on your list but I don't know anything about the inside of the boxes and what implications that shape has.
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I'm looking for some next level headphones. I'd like to be able to switch between the monitors and headphones without too much difference in tone. Not sure it's really possible. I've never heard really accurate headphones.
So he's looking pretty good for a 60 year old who had a massive addiction and a terrible motorcycle accident. :)