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Countersteering is that? You should be doing that all the time with a motorbike and it surprised me that it's not really part of the training.
In Japan you have to be able to pick up a large dummy bike that's on it's side to pass the full licence. It's one reason why the 400 class was so popular in Japan.
I had to pick up a full dress fully loaded Harley Ultra a few times when touring in NZ, you really need to use the squatting method shown in the video then.
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Is no one using a grain filler before waxing/varnishing wood. I've only done a few restorations that needed stripping and varnishing and never got to that stage but read about it. Otherwise the grain always seems pretty obvious regardless of any fine sanding.
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You really start learning once you pass your test. Had a friend who passed and had a SV1000 waiting. Went out for the first ride and found out very quickly that he'd not yet learnt to ride round a roundabout at speed. He bottled it and nearly crashed into the pavement. :0
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If you wear it at all and don't want scratches you are going to have to have it polished. Personally I've never let mine be polished but the marks from wear don't bother me.
I had the GMT opened by Rolex to remove some tiny fibres when it was nearly new, the watchmaker who did it at the London Rolex office put me right about never polishing it when I asked if it could benefit from it.
To me it looks like a pretty honest job to create a scratch free finish, the sides look ok. I would be disappointed if Rolex sent mine back polished like that on the clasp though, it seems to be too fine a grit from the photos.
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I remember the first time I let out the clutch on a 600, it felt so powerful. Good luck with the theory, sounds like you will find it easier than you think. You'll be a biker in time for spring.
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There's a new version 123 plus, roughly £40 for 2.5lts but a real improvement in opacity on woodwork, covers more stains as well. Yet to try it on bare aged redwood, most waterbased primers fail to stop redwood (pine) bleed.
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Thanks...I think?!? :)
It's true that you might never feel that you've quite covered it. If I'm painting for a client with x-ray vision I would insist that lining is the only way to cover it. For my own use I might start with Zinsser Gardz then the Ray Munn stuff or in the past Dulux super matt. Roller quality and pattern, thickness of pile etc. makes a difference. I get great coverage with a 3" roller set I have but you really want something bigger to get a whole room done. Sometimes I'll line it, roll with a 3" roller and brush out the roller marks in vertical lines as I go round the room to get a really lovely finish. Takes time though.
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Assuming these are plaster walls you should use a paint with very high solid content and water it down for the first coat. A paint like this is available from Ray Munn on the Fulham Road, I don't know where else or what it's called but I always have 2 pots of it one diluted to 50% for the first coat and one diluted with 20% water for the top coat. It's the best white paint I've ever used for finishing ceilings without roller marks. If you ring them they can tell you what it is.
Problem you have loading the walls with a trade emulsion is drying time and issues from too many layers not completely drying. There is a super matt paint from Dulux that I used prior to the Ray Munn paint being released or Johnstones trade was a cheaper favourite. They will do the job on darker colour but it's always going to take time to cover.
The term primer is usually used to describe woodwork paints and they do have more stain sealing properties. Zinsser Allcoat is a self priming paint normally used for woodwork, I can't think of an example where it would be the best choice on walls. The Zinsser primer you could use although it would be expensive and overkill would be Zinsser 123 plus, I wouldn't do that unless you were trying to cover water stains in which case Zinsser cover stain would be a better choice. All the Zinsser primers will block the underlying color more effectively than emulsion though but at a cost.
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~You know that's an R4 right?
You might be surprised it's not exactly second nature to a lot of people. I understand that one of the reasons it doesn't get explained a lot during training is because the trainers have a tendancy to think you must be doing it or you wouldn't be able to go round a corner.
Personally I've always had to be very aware of it and conscious of the force and feedback from the handlebars but I'm used to riding in town so my low speed manoeuvring was second nature and the high speed cornering is a bit less natural. It is possible to ride a bike by pulling on the handlebars rather than pushing, probably more people doing that than you would think, normally they struggle with the low speed u turn though.