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Would recommend Daytona, if you are looking second hand they do a decent resoling service for not too much money. I have a pair that are 15 years old, have had the soles done twice.
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p.s. I can hear the difference between my vinyl recordings and cd rips on just about any system I play them back on, the qualities of the records have more impact than the difference between an analog or digital signal chain.
If I play back recordings of records on my main system I very easily drift into thinking I have the record on!
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Room dimensions and speaker positioning including a sub if you're that way inclined. It's pretty accurate but it's only got to calculate the length of a frequency and work out where it will overlap itself and increase the db's.
Gain structure is very difficult to get your head around. It's part of the game that it's so easy to plug components together without understanding their individual specs and they'll work fine, if you want optimal performance you have to understand what they all need to function at their best.
If you are running your phono amp into a pre amp then that could easily be adding some volume which is pushing your power amp input a bit too hard.
I am using digital speakers and I trialled them against an all analog setup, the all analog was nice but I needed to eq for the room modes so it's move or use an eq for me.
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Kind of late answering but I do use a specialised mic which has a factory calibration file so that a flat response can be calculated. I use REW to make convolution filters that can be used by Roon or HQPlayer in my case. It's all small gains but I've stopped fiddling for the last 6 months or more so something must be working!!
When I had problems with high end harshness it turned out to be the gain staging between the power amps or digital speakers and the sources I was using. Make very sure that you are not sending too loud a signal to your power amps. It's worth knowing rather than guessing what the optimum headroom from your source to power amps is and even measuring the voltage of a reference level sine wave.
If you don't yet have a test disk I would recommend getting one, you can test your phono amp output to make sure you don't have a strong resonant peak in the upper frequencies. Certain cartridge/cable/phono amp combos will do that.
Sounds like you also have standard room mode issues in the low end. They are so predictable you only need to enter the room size into REW and it will accurately predict the frequencies.
I'm guessing the 48khz sampling rate is where the minidsp is economising.
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If you find something on the Hafele website you can usually find an online supplier.
As an example but there are quite a few ranging from industrial to cookie cutter euro office.
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With touring I've done on hire bikes they've had fairly heavy chains supplied and we were expected to use them. It's always nerve racking planning a tour, it's an adventure and obstacles will have to be overcome. :)
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There are some strongly held opinions around about DSP not being suitable for high frequencies. I'm using convolution eqs on my nearfield setup and basic parametric eq on mains. It makes more sense than putting up with the very small problems I'm trying to iron out.
Sometimes it's not really worth the effort to try and find another component that has better synergy with your room. Just EQ it for a while and another solution might present itself in time.
I would run an analog chain but it doesn't make sense to have an analog 32+ channel mixing desk and that's what I need for the drum machines!
Whenever I've simplified things to a minimum I don't get a better connection to the music, I get an annoying little issue with some part of the frequency range instead :)
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I looked for a long time and decided a dual skin plastic shed was he best long term bet!
Went with one from Lifetime sheds and it's been great. If you are storing a lot of metal tools it's very good at resisting condensation. The guy who delivered it told me he has one for his scooter collection for that reason.
Of course I get why you would be thinking wooden, I was pretty sure I would build one from scratch but this one outperformed anything easily affordable.
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Just to add, if by small works you mean problem solving simple stuff like why do my lights flicker or changing broken fittings etc. the course is overkill but gives a lot of confidence. If you've never changed a breaker then the course is very useful for confidence inside the consumer unit.
If you want to add circuits or install in bathrooms/outdoors which is good money but bigger jobs and plenty of demand you will need to be registered and you will at least need this course before you get accepted by a registered body.
They will also test your competence by coming to view work that you have completed and that work will have to be something that requires registration. It all starts to add up to a situation where working for a firm helps you get registered before you start doing small works on your own.
Used to do a fair amount of winter riding with plastic bags on the feet between 2 pairs of socks and newspaper stuffed up the jacket.
Definitely follow up hugo7's tip too. I picked up an incredible 2nd hand Rukka jacket which was perfect for 10 years until it finally sacrificed itself to save my skin in an accident. It was probably 15 years old when I bought it.
Also, whatever happened to fairings made out of estate agents boards, every courier in London had a winter set of those, usually on a VT500 or CB4o0.