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It's health and safety, there's no problem taking the cover off if you have a bit of training and some tools. No one is going to encourage you to do it, especially not some random on the internet!
If I had the time I could describe a few ways that the process can go wrong but there are quite a few checks you should be making after the work which it sounds like you are not equipped for.
If you have any exterior fittings on your installation I would disconnect those. Switching off the breaker doesn't necessarily solve the problem of a line/neutral fault which is what the RCD is supposed to pick up because of the way the neutrals are joined in some cases.
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Be careful if you're only armed with a voltage detector. It would make sense to get the CU looked at. An electrician would probably remove the CU cover and tighten/check the connections, it's not unusual for a connection to be loose.
You need to work safely and diagnosis further than loose wires in the fuses is beyond the scope of a voltage detector.
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Check the wires you've connected to it (with a proper voltage tester, safety first). Are they live? Do they go on and off when the lights go on and off?
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In short, it's not a simple job. You should have a switch wire which activates the fan as well as the line and neutral to provide the power. Do you have an isolation switch for the fan outside the bathroom? I'm asking to try and judge the age of the installation.
How do you want your fan to operate? Switch on with the lights, humidity detection, motion detection?
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Metal just bends over time in any case. There's a calculator for shelf sag called 'the sagulator'.
The sandwich type with 40mm pine should do it. That's a dated look though! The modular box type of record storage is popular at the moment.
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You are probably wrong to be worried about integrated LED. There are lots of occasions when they are the best choice. I do worry about having to replace individual downlighter in 10 years but having seen the issues with 12v downlighters over the years I'm happy to fit an integrated if it fulfils the requirements.
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In general Hans Grohe, but the cistern is not as critical as the porcelain. Hans Grohe is helpful if you need to source parts in 10 years time. If you use a frame you might have to use the matching cistern.
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Do you really have no side walls to fix a frame to. .8m of vinyl is still a good weight. Otherwise the Vitsoe system works, I'm not sure if you can hand the large shelf on tiny rails though.
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There should have been party wall agreements but it will depend when it was done. I've seen some awful 70's jobs where the floor bounces inches in the middle because of the way the fireplace was chopped out.
If your mate didn't have a party wall agreement at the time it's going to be a nightmare to sort out. On the other hand cracking is normal in victorian properties regardless of the other work which goes on, although that work usually makes it worse.
Just as a bit of added info. One reason consumers are not encouraged to replace breakers or 'allowed' to create new circuits is the breaker is chosen based on the type of cable, where the cable is located and the overall resistance of the circuit. It's a relatively complicated process to calculate and test although it generally leads to the same configuration in domestic installations.
If a consumer changes a breaker for a different rating there is a chance that the circuit won't be adequately protected in the case of a fault. So fire or injury could be the result.