Most recent activity
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Fantastic effort and work. Looks really good. You must be pretty knackered by now. Is the rest of the house next? :D . I'm still at it 2 years in with no end in sight.
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After it has dried out probably some Zinnser 123 would be able to seal it and also act as a primer before repainting? This worked for me when I accidentally knocked over my full dehumidifier in the loft and it stained the ceiling below.
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Ta. Staggered and perpendicular it is.
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Cheers @TooTallTim and @Bobbo . I'm confused about why boards need to be perpendicular to joists though? I'll end up with far more unsupported edges that way vs if I run them parallel. Are timber battens half and half overlapped at the supported edges good enough or do they need to be attached to the joists too.
I'll have a second person helping me. Was planning on just using a drill driver and one of those drywall bit holders to get the screw depth correct. I'll be doing the job bit by bit over a couple of weeks or so don't really fancy hiring any equipment. I was going to make a couple of T shaped upside broom things to help wedge the boards in places while I drive the screws in.
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Anyone know anything about drywalling? I'm about to start doing the ceiling of my garden office. 400mm spacing, 5.8 m wide x 3.8 m deep. I will hire someone to plaster it afterwards. My questions are:
- Do the orientations of the board matter? The short edge of the room is in line with the roof joints. I would end up with far few butt joints if I orientate the long edge of the board along the roof joists as two boards would more than cover the 4m depth
- Do I need to stagger the boards
- Do butt joints need supports behind? If yes, will a piece of timber half half between the two boards with screws suffice? I've seen the folk down under do something called back blocking with offcuts of plasterboard and special adhesive. I'd rather avoid this if I can.
I want the answers to be no, no and no.
Cheers
- Do the orientations of the board matter? The short edge of the room is in line with the roof joints. I would end up with far few butt joints if I orientate the long edge of the board along the roof joists as two boards would more than cover the 4m depth
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I was about to say that the titan one from screwfix is also totally worth it's price tag but it looks like they don't sell it anymore.
If you're thinking about the lidl one, it's worth checking out a video by Peter Millard on YT about it where he does a pretty in depth review of it and some tweaks to improve the track a bit.
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A track saw will make your life a lot easier. Faffing with a straight edge and clamps gets tiring after a little while.
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Ha. If there is witchcraft involved then I shall not skimp out and use my left over dpm. I'll go get some more thinner vapour barrier.
This membrane stuff is confusing. Vapour barriers are actually slightly breathable, and breathable membranes are even more breathable then!?
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chipboard is there to spread load over the insulation which might otherwise dent under concentrated load such as foot traffic or table legs etc. It will help a bit with leveling too although I have taken out hollows using self leveling compound already.
Kingspan suggest something similarhttps://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation/kingspan-insight/articles-and-advice/why-and-how-to-construct-a-floating-floor
Does £450 to skim a newly installed plasterboard ceiling seem reasonable? 3.8 x 5.8m with a skylight. I was expecting it to be a days work but looks like I'm being quoted for two.