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The word you’re looking for is Threadlock. Available from most DIY and car parts shops. However, if one particular bolt keeps coming undone, take it out clean it and examine it closely. If the thread is damaged at all, replace it.
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10 speed Shimano road cassette should come with a spacer - at least mine did.
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True, and without input from pedalling dynamics, it’s not going to be very efficient, either.
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A motor in the front wheel is the least good place to put a motor as there is no way for it to interact with the pedalling action. But it is the simplest and cheapest way to do it and sometimes, like with the electric Brompton, the only practical way to do it.
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In that case you are right on the limit. For a bigger front ring you’ll have to sacrifice something, either your little front ring or your largest rear cog.
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What the range of your rear mech (from the specs sheet) and what is the range of your cassette?
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Many, many years ago (I’m talking about the 1970’s), I bought a Shimano Dura Ace chainset and it came with their version of that tool, and I still have it!
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Is that your current setup? That rear mech already looks far too stretched as it is let alone with a bigger chainring. Did it come like that it did you set it up? The front mech actually looks too high above the large chainring (gap between large chainring and bottom edge of front mech cage should be about 1-2mm).
Anyway, look up the specs of your derailleurs and see what the max tooth capacity is. If the extra teeth you want to put on the front chainring is still
within their capacity then you can just change the big ring and leave everything else as it is, apart from the chain which needs more links.(Any 4 hole chainring with the right BCD will work)
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Maybe for the more expensive groups but Xenon was the base model. I had the same Xenon equipped Bianchi a while back and I just used regular cables without any issues.
Yes, a couple of times. Usually when I was only flying one way and wanted to dispose of the box. After a couple of flights, cardboard boxes are so bashed up, you need a new one.
How much you need to strip the bike depends on the box. Some bikes arrive in the shops in their boxes with only the front wheel removed and the bars turned 90 degrees. Others are more dismantled. I used full panniers and other bits as padding and bits of cardboard to protect wheels and projecting parts as I didn’t want to dump plastic at the other end. If you are going to reuse the box on your way home then bubble wrap, or even better, pipe lagging (from DIY shops) is a good idea.