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What the range of your rear mech (from the specs sheet) and what is the range of your cassette?
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Many, many years ago (I’m talking about the 1970’s), I bought a Shimano Dura Ace chainset and it came with their version of that tool, and I still have it!
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Is that your current setup? That rear mech already looks far too stretched as it is let alone with a bigger chainring. Did it come like that it did you set it up? The front mech actually looks too high above the large chainring (gap between large chainring and bottom edge of front mech cage should be about 1-2mm).
Anyway, look up the specs of your derailleurs and see what the max tooth capacity is. If the extra teeth you want to put on the front chainring is still
within their capacity then you can just change the big ring and leave everything else as it is, apart from the chain which needs more links.(Any 4 hole chainring with the right BCD will work)
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Maybe for the more expensive groups but Xenon was the base model. I had the same Xenon equipped Bianchi a while back and I just used regular cables without any issues.
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They’re nothing special. Standard brake and gear cables will do, eg Clarkes from Halfords. Pull back the hood rubber and you’ll see where the gear cable goes.
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I share your pain. Single pivot side pulls were always a pain to centre. Until the advent of dual pivot we were doomed to live with rubbing brake pads, or centre pulls.
Not much to add to above. Use brake bolt to centre the caliper and clean and grease where the arms meet each other.
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He’s right. There is only one voucher and it goes to the shop. There is no way to split. To buy parts rather than a whole bike needs a willing shop as technically you’re not supposed to do it, but many people have. But not all shops are prepared to sell only parts under the scheme.
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Easily. Like old fashioned brake levers, the allen bolt is behind the lever in the body, not on the outside like modern ones.
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I had a pair of 8 speed mirage brifters on a bike with traditional quill stem and non-compact bars. The brifters’ clamping mechanism is fairly basic, like normal non-shifter brake levers and will fit your proposed bars/stem combo without issues.
In that case you are right on the limit. For a bigger front ring you’ll have to sacrifice something, either your little front ring or your largest rear cog.