Most recent activity
-
How loose are we talking about here?
So;
Is it the right thickness of spacer?
Is it the right cassette for the freehub?
Is the lockring done up tight?
Have they forgotten a sprocket? -
Whichever fits. I’m guessing single will be long enough.
-
Yes, been doing it for years without problems.
-
My 130 bcd crankset has 48/39. The latter is the smallest generally available for these cranks but ISTR TA make a 38 tooth that fits. (but it might be another brand, I can’t remember) if you want to go lower.
-
Not usually as the axle/dropout interface is a friction fit for QR hubs. For solid axles and through axles, I would grease the threads a little, if only to reduce the chances of seized thread in the future.
-
I think you’ll be fine. Any reason you’re going with that particular combination?
Years ago, and I’m talking about the 1970s, 10 teeth was the usual difference between chainrings (remember 42-52 chainsets, anyone) but that was because derailleurs couldn’t cope with more, not that we didn’t want a wider range of gears.
TA rings are fine, I bought some TA replacements for my Campag cranks years ago and they’re still going strong.
-
What part of the world are you in?
-
No reason why it shouldn't work with a different model of cranks. The limiting factor is the difference in number of teeth between the small and large chainrings. Shimano docs says up to 16 teeth.
The Look type pedal systems are definitely more efficient at power transfer but infinitely more impractical when off the bike than SPD.
When I first started using clipless pedals in the early 90’s, only Look type pedals were available. As soon as SPD came out in the mid 90’s, I switched to them and have been using one version or another of SPDs on my road bikes ever since. I don’t race and I only ride the occasional sportive so I don’t care about power efficiency, only not falling on my arse when I’m off the bike. And SPD cleats, being metal, last for years. One issue is finding shoes that are more road orientated than MTB but still can take SPD cleats and a sole for walking about without being either too smooth or too lumpy. I currently have a pair of Shimano touring shoes. I think the new generation of ‘gravel shoes’ probably do quite well in this respect.