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Mikenetic

Member since Feb 2010 • Last active May 2020
  • 20 conversations
  • 527 comments

Most recent activity

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Thanks very much! I'm a hobbyist, but I've been building things for a fair bit of time so I'm reasonably well practiced.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    I'm glad the Cross Check's serving you well - nice to hear.

    The slot heads came out OK in that they didn't break, but it's slow going removing them as the flat bit does tend to spin out, and there's a chance you then dig it into the timber. Not a concern if you're doing demolition work, but more of a worry if you're lifting bits to fix stuff underneath.

    If I had the choice between the two I'd pick Torx. Torx has the added benefit that the heads can be smaller, so the fixings are less visually intrusive too.

  • in Miscellaneous and Meaningless
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    Hello! @withered_preacher & @Sharkstar - I've not been around for a little while. Funnily enough I completely redid the decking last year because the wood had hit the end of its serviceable life (almost 15 years, to be fair).

    To build it this time we used fixings supplied by Jacksons fencing - stainless self-countersinking torx head. I used easily over 300 of them and didn't have a single failure. https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/produ­ct/sc_809902/60mm-decking-screw-stainles­s-steel-t25-torx-drive.pail-containing-2­00-pcs-driver-bit

    For the underlying structure we used a range of fastenings, but I'd thoroughly recommend the TimbaDeck & TimbaScrew products from Screwfix.

    Here's the fruits of my labour on this soggy spring morning.

  • in Frame Builders
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    Um, I think you might have misinterpreted the chart.

    Some seat tubes are externally butted - that way you can get the thickness you need around the seat - top tube joint for strength, and the seat post itself is supported via contact to the inner diameter for its full length. Best way to verify is to measure the ID of the tube.

    You don't want to go too close to the transition zone on the butting in case you compromise the strength. That's why they give you a 245mm plain wall thickness to work with, you can change the seat tube length by up to 165mm without breaching their guidelines.

    The red circle just lets you know which end is which - on an externally butted tube you can also tell because you can actually feel the transition on the external butt.

  • in Bikes & Bits
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    I used an SLX 1x11 groupset on my Bullitt if you wanted to reduce the budget a bit. I've been very impressed with it.

    Mudguards maybe on the build?

  • in Rides & Races
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    To do the downlighting on my cargo bike I bought some LED strip lighting off Amazon that's meant to provide ambient colour behind TVs. It had 4 strips, but I only used 2. It was about a tenner for the LED kit, and I hooked it into one of those USB battery packs for charging phones.

    It came complete with a remote that lets you change colours or do sweet disco fx. The LED strips have a self-adhesive backing and can be cut to length.

  • in Rides & Races
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    Yep - the kettle belongs to my mate. It's collapsible and has a metal base, you can get them off Amazon for less than £20 (other retailers are available) - first time he'd used it, and we were impressed.

    The stove is an MSR PocketRocket - had it for years, it's excellent.

  • in Rides & Races
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    Yep, that's mine!

  • in Rides & Races
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    I rode it this year on my Bullitt, I thought it would be a good test ahead of potentially doing some cargo bike touring.

    Set off at about 19:15, made it to the beach around 6am with a fair few stops. Bike and bag weighed about 33Kg, which was OK on the flat, but you do feel it a fair bit on the hills.

  • in Components, clothing and miscellany
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    Gaming PC is now living out a happy retirement as a Minecraft machine, Shuttle Media PC still available.

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