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Diamond_Supercool

Member since Jan 2010 • Last active Jun 2020

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    Also, check this out: Sturmey knew best all along.

    Bad dogs.

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    Boom. There was one on Ebay after all.

    But just to make sure, I'm also ordering new bearings, a new clutch, new pinion pins and new cones.

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    The part that I need is HSA 118. But that's long discontinued. Can't see any up for sale on ebay either.

    Anyone know if any of the options on SJS are compatible? Seems like they could be interchangeable, but that's a big assumption.

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    Put everything in that Sturmey Archer hub back together, all beautifully cleaned, oiled and regreased. Reinstalled the wheel I'd finally cracked it when I took it out for a long evening ride and it didn't miss a beat. Glorious. Put the bike back in the bike shed feeling very satisfied.

    Took the bike out two days later, started riding it and ... it's back to slipping around in second gear around like fish on a waterslide.

    FFS. FML.

    Took it all apart again tonight to have a closer look and think I might have found the issue.

    In second gear (which is where the gear slips), the clutch engages directly with these teeth in the gear assembly. On mine, the corners of these teeth are worn down. I reckon that's causing the clutch to slip off. I can temporarily solve the problem by tightening the gear chain so that the clutch engages higher up these teeth....but that causes problems with the alignment in the low gear instead.

    My gear assembly has only four teeth. But by the look of the SJS spares list, all the replacement gear assemblies have many more, which presumably spreads the load and prevents the teeth wearing so quickly.

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    Put this all back together and reinstalled the wheel.

    Everyone (including @Jonny69 above) says that, to get the gears operating properly, there should be a tiny bit of cable slack in the high gear position and an even tinier bit of indicator chain movement in the low-gear position. Trouble is, I can't get both.

    In order to get the cable tight enough to stop the gears slipping in 2nd, the cable is so tight in 1st that I fear something is going to snap. There's no movement at all, which isn't right.

    There's also no play in the rim, which there is supposed to be.

    All of this leads me to think that the drive-side cone is too tight. By loosening it off, I should increase the range of movement in the driver.

    So that's tonight's task.

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    Best jigsaw I've done in lockdown.

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    Closer inspection of the SA rear hub strongly suggests that my LBS were lying when they said they disassembled and serviced it.

    I'm waiting for this beast to arrive in the post, so that I really can get down and dirty.

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    Five months later and I'm interested in this project again. And, no longer trusting my LBS, I've opened up a Sturmey Archer-flavoured can of worms and I'm tucking in. Yummy.

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